Hi Limit Thermostat Keeps Tripping

Dryer Repair
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1

Need some help with this. Maytag DG303 series 05 gas dryer.

Basically the Hi Limit switch keeps overheating, cycling the burner on and off. Cuts out at about 220-240 and back on around 180 F or so. So the switch is working as it should (new Hi Limit switch BTW). More interested in reasons why it would overheat. ALL OF THE VENTS are clear, both internal and external. At the base of the burner (right where it attaches to the gas valve) there is a air valve that can be opened and closed. Tried closed, mid (factory) and full open, no luck. Any other adjustments to keep this from overheating?

This happened at first with a load of laundry after doing some repairs (see below). Afterwards I’ve been running it empty for troubleshooting.

Also checked the gas valve coils. The 2 pin coil reads about 1350 ohms, the 3 pin coil reads 1350 at 1 and 2 and about 550 ohms at pins 1 and 3. Though the coils might be going bad, not allowing the gas valve to open completely causing an distorted flame pattern kicking the hi limit thermostat on.

WTF, I’m ready to toss this thing out to the trash. Anybody have any other ideas???

The long story,

Original problem was with the fan wheel being loud. Took everything apart, changed the wheel, replaced the drum felt seals and front bottom supports, new drum belt. All of the vents were cleaned while in there, even the one being the aft drum wall that feeds air from the burner. Well it’s a lot quieter now, but I’m having a different problem.

The timer motor won’t work. Powered to the timer, it works. Checked rotary switch contacts, good. Checked cycling thermostat, good. Checked hi limit thermostat, good. All wiring and connections between cycling, hi limit, rotary switch were checked with a multi meter.

The timer is supposed to be powered from the rotary switch during the end of the regular and press cycles. At the beginning of the regular and press cycles the timer will only be powered by the cycling thermostat. This thermostat was checked and it is cycling as it should. The problem is that the hi limit thermostat cuts out the burner power before the cycling thermostat has a chance to cycle the burner on and off.

Replaced the hi limit thermostat and now having the same problem. I guess the old one was good, but I did not have a thermometer to check it’s opening/closing points.

3

Is this natural gas or LP?

4

Natural gas

5

ok so problem is timer is not advancing. set it for a timed dry cycle anything that counts down a time. it must not be an "auto dry" setting, if after 10 mins it still does not move that sounds like a bad timer motor to me. normally i mark the timer dial and spot on shroud with a pen to see how far it advances.

6

The timer advances in air fluff mode. New cycling thermostat and hi limit switch. So the vent by the cycling thermostat stays too cool, the duct at the hi limit switch gets too hot. Maybe I did a shitty job replacing the felt seals and all of the hot air is escaping through them…

7

Seems like there is more an airflow issue than anything make sure the front panel is on when your testing as well. Also try it briefly with the venting off to see if that makes a difference.

8

I looked at it some more last night, the new felt seal I installed is about 1/8" thick while the old one that was replaced was about 1/4" thick. Is the felt seal supposed to be folded over? What am I missing here?

For Maytag DG303 it calls out for PS2036902 for series 00 and PS2032355 for series 05. Mine is a -05 so I got the latter PN. Anybody know the difference between these two PN?

9

I come up with a wp314820 for your felt seals. I don’t recognize the other part numbers. That is if your drum is beige if your drum is gray it’s coming up with a wp33313541