None of the lights work in the refrigerator or freezer. I tested them in other appliances and they work. I put new one’s in and they don’t work. It happened yesterday for the first time and then they came on again by themselves and today they went out again and haven’t come back on yet. The refrigerator and freezer are both working fine. Anyone have this happen.
Look at the door switch see if it’s sticking or something first.
nat
Anything is possible, but not that likely…do you hear any clicking noises from around the compressor? Check to see if it is in defrost model. See if the fan in the back of the freezer is working.
Nat
Yes compressor is hot and vibrating copper line coming in is hot and copper line going out not cold but not warm
I just checked the timer and it is getting power but the fan in the back of the freezer comes on when it goes in to defrost mode and turns off when the compressor comes on.
Any other suggestions or just call my garbage man!!!
Nat,
Thanks for all your help. I followed every possible electrical lead. No burnt wires behind the freezer wall under the fan and I checked power to the timer and there was 120+v and when I turn the timer it sends power to the compressor and to the fan and I just can't figure out why the lights on both sides suddenly went out and then the whole thing quit working.My Waste Management doesn't charge extra for large appliances as long as you notify them ahead of time. The last time I called a tec for my Whirlpool he mis-diagnosed and I was charged $75.00 anyways and when I called for a refund they said they couldn't refund but would send another tech out for another $75.00. By the way I just got my icemaker delivered and I put it in , in between texting you. Will let you know tomorrow if it is now working. What's the probability of having problems with 2 refers in the same week.LOL
Thanks Again
Ron
Hello to All,
Question: I have a bad defrost coil on My refrigerator section of My refrigerator.I had to order the evaporator assembly Samsung part number AP4171999 It appears it is not sold separately. Can I remove the defrost coil from the new evaporator and install in the unit with a bad defrost coil. Would be much easier then changing the evaporator,[cutting into the system,recover,recharge] Thanks,Dave
Let us know how you make out. Looks like it can be done, it is going to be fun working inside the fridge. I can’t count the times that I have been in there with a hairdryer. There are so many people that have the same problem with this brand, no matter what model. I, like all the others, will never buy another Samsung product of any kind. The only tech that is only a little knowldgeable about the unit will not come out anymore. I have had to learn all about it myself on different forums. There is something inherently wrong with ours and we can’t chance coming home after a vacation and find the piece of junk dead.
So soon, we will be putting the imported piece of junk out on the curb like so many ofthers
The part is due in on the first of June. Have to see how busy work is if I will get to it during the week or save for the weekend. Will let you know how I make out. Dave
Good work Dave. We went out to look for another fridge but really didn’t like any we saw as much as the one we have, so for now I have ordered another motherboard and hope the defrost function returns when I replace it. For now, I have some zip cord patched into the heater connector and have run the zip cord out the side of the door to a simple lamp timer plugged into the wall outlet set to power the heater every 12 hours for 20 minutes. I have had this working now for almost two weeks now and haven’t had to do the hairdryer trick since. Not the most efficient setup since the compressor might be running at the same time the defrost timer begins but it seems to still work for now. My heater measured 50 ohms and have a clamp-on ammeter and it reads 1.2 amps when it is on. Would have thought it would have read more like 2 amps.
Don’t know why they make you buy an entire evaporator just to get a heater. A lot of things don’t make sense nowadays.
Correction: Don’t know what I was looking at but fridge defrost heater resistance is really 120 ohms.
Jay
Yes, you can replace just the defrost coil. Order the complete evaporator coil, with defrost coil attached. Carefully spread the clinched tabs that hold the defrost coil into the evaporator fin assembly. Also cut the rivet at the bottom right that holds the bottom heat-shield/drain trough to the fin assembly. After this lift the old assembly up and out of the back of the molded plastic notch, being careful not bending or kinking the the capillary or return tubing and slide the old defrost coil down and out of the unit. To attach the new coil do the reverse. Remember to carefully cut the plastic harness straps but, always replace them when done.
Do I measure the heater at room temperature (defrost)? Should I set the multimeter at 200K when checking the resistant and the reading should be 90? If that is the fault part, how do I remove the evaporator coil since it is nailed to the bottom part (drain)? Thanks!
This is how I replaced mine, thanks to ER who took great pictures and explained it all well seen at link below. Wish I had seen this before I did mine.
http://sites.google.com/site/rnssite/samsung
Good Luck,
Rick