I have a Whirpool double oven (model# RBD305PDB14 ) that I am intermittently having problems with. A few months ago the display stopped working for about a day.
It would just beep when you pressed the buttons and wouldn’t turn on. Then it just started working again while I was trying to figure out what was going on with it.
Same thing happened yesterday and then this morning it just beeped a few times and the display started working again. Everything appears to working correctly now … I can turn on both the upper and lower ovens now.
Is this problem caused by the control panel starting to go out or what? Any help appreciated. Thanks.
thanks for the reply Brian. No, I’m not really getting any random beeping except when it is not working altogether.
last night about 11pm it beeped a few times and then this morning it started working again mysteriously.
My problem was the display was totally blank (it wasn’t telling the time when not cooking with it) and the sequence of buttons that would normally turn the stove on just yielded beeps. The stove wouldn’t come on.
Does that sound like the control panel or control board?
No instructions, but it isn’t to difficult. Turn off the power. Remove the side trims, then the two screws holding the panel in place, then lift it up and off the rails. Then it’s just make note of which wire goes where, so you can get them onto the new one correctly. The put it back together.
alright, it finally quit working altogether and I replaced the control board (AP3595759) and now none of the buttons work and I get an E1 F2 error on the display. What’s wrong with it now?
I tried to clean the contacts on the end of the ribbon cable but I still can’t get any of the keys on the keypad to work. When I first turn power on to it, it beeps and the cooling fan runs for about 30 secs I guess then I get an F5 E1 error and about a minute later it beeps and shows an E1 F2 error. Could The cable have gone bad when I disconnected the old board and hooked up the new one?
alright, I examined the cable closely and I can see a hairline crack in the cable going all the way across at the point where it makes a sharp bend coming from the front to plug into the board. The circuit doesn’t appear to be broken. It seems like thats my problem now?
The first error is for a latch problem, while the second is still the keypad problem. If the buttons aren’t accepting input, I guess programing the board is not going to happen. As for the latch problem, there may be a daughter board next to the control board. This controls both latches, so make sure it is connected properly. When you first turn on the breaker, both door locks should cycle to find their home position so if either one isn’t working, that would be the reason for the first error. As for the ribbon cable, to verify continuity through each wire, I use a set of sharp probes on my meter and pierce the insulation on either side of where I believe the break to be. If you don’t have continuity, then that may be a problem. Usually, when a wire breaks, it only affects one matrix of buttons and not the entire thing. But if several of the wires broke, that would explain why it isn’t working. Many of these panels would get mounted with the ribbon cable folded over, then with time and expansion, the buttons would stop working. Sometimes you can try moving the cable to see if any electrical contact is being made. But if any of the wires is broken, there isn’t a good way to repair it.
When you push the despenser lever on the ice maker all the way in, it makes a little wirring sound but no ice comes out. Then the wirring sound goes off. We checked to make sure the basket was inserted correctly into the back of the freezer and checked the turn mechanism.
Do you have any idea why no ice comes out?
Any help appreciated. Thanks.