Won’t spin during rinse or final spin. If I set the knob to spin or even just turn it off and on a couple times, then it will spin. The lid switch was broken and has been glued back to together. I can hear it clicking when the lid is closed. I checked the clutch and coupling, both fine. Removed the knob to make sure it’s not a timing issue. So is my next step to buy a continuity tester to see if the lid switch is working electrically? I literally taught myself how to work on a washer today so use simple terms please. If I do need the tester, where can I find one cheap and what exactly do I look for?
The easiest way to test the lid switch is to use a jumper wire to by-pass by inserting the wire in the non-ground terminals on the connector from the timer.
If the machine spins, you have a lid switch problem.
The plug inside the control panel that plugs into the lid switch is missing. There’s just cut wires with black tape around them. Where would I order the part and find instructions to fix it?
Okay, I am guessing what happened here is that lid switch went bad and someone had another switch with the wrong plug so they just hard wired the new switch or wired the old broken switch in and cut off the plug.
I suggest you just get a new lid switch and cut off the plug and connect the wires to the wires coming from the console with wire nuts and tape over the nuts. If you make a good connection you should be fine.
You can order the lid switch on this site or call in your order on Monday.
Here is the part
AP3100001
and there is a link to a video to show you how to do it.
I already have the new lid switch. I have zero experience working with wires. The a-hole who sold me the set is refusing to refund despite claiming it worked fine. I’d like to fix it and resell it myself. In that situation, is it a bad idea to connect the wires like that?
No, as long as you do a good solid connection with wire nuts and make sure it is insulated with the tape around the nuts you should be ok. You absolutely should disclose the repair to a prospective buyer. The only purpose of the connector is to make it easier to change out the lid switch, there are lots of areas in appliances and other electrical devices where connections are made with wire nuts.
Just make sure the hot are connected to the hot and the ground is connected to the ground. You should be fine. Yeah, the jerk that sold it to you just jerry rigged it instead of getting a lid switch with the right connector. We see this fairly often.
I really appreciated you all helping. I’ve literally been in tears over this. I’m so disgusted that another woman would sell a broken appliance to a single mother and then refuse to refund, just leaving me with the cost of service and repairs.
I can’t really tell much from the pics, but just splice a similar gauged wire to the green wire to make it longer. you don’t even need wire nuts, just twisted good and taped good.
Sorry this happened, it is really an easy repair to do correctly, but as I said, we repair a lot of these where someone has done a half-a***d job.
Good luck, hope all of this work you are doing pays off.
Some little pieces of wire came off. Is that bad?
Cam I buy a whole new wire bundle with plugs?
Yes, but with shipping it would be about $100.00. Those of us who respond on this site are volunteers and do not work for APP which is a parts company. This should be your part.
Sorry I am not there to help you, this is about a ten minute job for us but it can be daunting if you haven’t done it before. If the three wires are connected securely this will work. The important thing is that the machine stops when the lid is raised; this is a safety feature that is very important.
Ok I went to homedepot and an employee helped me. I got the little connectors that you crimp and wire cutters/splitters. I’ve done the ground wire buuuut… My machine has 1 green, 1 tan and 1 gray wire and my lid switch has 1 green and 2 gray wires. How do I know which wire goes where?
If I hook it up wrong will something bad happen? Or it just won’t work?
I hooked it all up and now I think the new lid switch isn’t working. I don’t hear a click and the washer keeps spinning when it’s open. I’m ready to throw this thing out a window!
I assume this has fixed your original problem. What you have likely done is to wire it up so as to by-pass the lid switch. See if you don’t have a friend who is familiar with basic wiring who can come over and set it right for you. If it is working correctly you could leave it as is but DON’T, this is a safety issue. The machine must stop when the lid is raised.
Yes, I definitely want it fixed properly. Right now it’s the same as before. Lid switch isn’t working so it’s not spinning on its own. I’m going to try to hook up the old lid switch and see if it works.
I fixed it!!! Old lid switch worked, I twisted the wires together and covered with electrical tape. I tried the crimping connectors but they didn’t feel secure. I’m so proud of myself! Thanks for the help sidfink!
I spoke too soon. The kid switch seems to be working. It stops spinning when I open it. But 2 loads have now washed without spinning. What else could it be?