Help please. I did laundry yesterday and my dryer worked fine! Today when i loaded it up, I pressed start. it hummed like it wanted to work, but it didn’t turn. Then it started to smell bad. I unplugged it.
I popped the top up and looked around and found nothing. The drum can manually be turned without any problems. I had my daughter hold the button so it thought the door was closed and I pushed start and spun the drum myself. it started, but it was very slow and kept making a clicking sound like it was about to shut off. :eek:
Is it the motor? a pulley? I am lost here! Please help!!! I’ve had this dryer for 10 years, is it just time to buy a new one? or is it worth fixing? I haven’t had any problems with it before.
Call or email here for the price of a new motor, probably around $100.00
Also check your belt, rear rollers ,front glides, idler wheel etc. for signs of wear and bearing slop. Then you will have a better idea what the total cost will be.
I figured it was pretty much dead from the smell it made! i was hoping it was just the belt, but the belt is fully intact and the drum turns with ease! thanks for your help!!!
I would say that the The selector switch is the most likely culprit. Item 13 in Section 1 since the broil element work and I assume that the thermostat does control it. Could also be that a wire has burned off.
One way to check it would be to unplug the unit.
Set it to bake and check the continuity of the switch.
Contacts 1 to 3 should be 0 ohms.
If OK
Check the wires going to the element.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
I’ve had this dryer for 10 years, is it just time to buy a new one? or is it worth fixing? I haven’t had any problems with it before.