Kenmore freezer buzzing, not much cold, rattles

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
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1

For a year, my freezer makes a loud short rattling noise which I believe is the compressor turning off or on. Like metal clanging. Anyhow it’s just louder than it should be.

I was recently gone for 4 days and when I came back, there was a loud buzzing noise that came on. I unplugged it immediately. It seems the door was not closed good either. All the food was thawed and the freezer wasn’t producing much cold. It’s been unplugged for 2 days and everything cleaned out. Plugged it back in for a few seconds and there was a buzzing noise.

Has the compressor gone bad? Any tips to get it fixed?

3

If I’m not mistaken, the black concave shape in the back/bottom of the freezer is the compressor? If so, yes the buzzing is coming from the compressor. There is no clicking. The buzz lasts for a few seconds.

4

The clicking sounds like the relay (electricals) if it’s been doing that for a while before you unplugged the unit it probably took out the compressor.
The compressor comes with new electricals. Part # AP3108882 or AP204149(the 1st being the exact part) would work. Depending on what a EPA certified technician would charge in your area would run around $500 for replacement.
With that said I would have a technician verify it’s a compressor problem because we can’t see and hear what you can.

If you were here we could do it for less because I got a few good buys on compressors and live in a pretty rural area.

Nat

5

Thank you. Now have to find a reliable technician who hopefully could do it for less.

6

the water is not going to the ice maker and the water is turned on

7

The DW completes all cycles, but runs very long. Temp of water in basin is about 110 for both wash and rinse, should be 130 and 150. I dont have access to electrical test equipment. Would be willing to take a chance on just installing a replacement heater, thermistor or control panel if any of these are likely root causes, then see how it goes.

8

When we open the refrigerator side there is a loud poping sound

9

Check the door gasket to make sure it’s clean and there is no foreign matter in or around it. Check to see if the door sags any. Try to locate the source of sound as you slowly open and shut the door.

10

— Begin quote from magician59;116066

Check the door gasket to make sure it’s clean and there is no foreign matter in or around it. Check to see if the door sags any. Try to locate the source of sound as you slowly open and shut the door.

— End quote

All of that has been done. When the door is about half way open it seems to drop down and at that it makes the poping soud. Could not determine if the two parts at bottom )with ridges) were worn but kind of suspect them. Am I in the ball park???

11

Probably worn or broken hinge bushings. I would just replace the entire hinges.

12

part# ap2033180

inner panel paint has been deroded & coming out, do i replace the inner panel or whole door & how do i replace it??

Thanks

13

John,

GE does not sell separate door parts for this model, so your choice is the whole door assembly only.

You have to remove the microwave from the cabinet. Remove the outer case and the upper door hinge. After you install the new door make sure the door switches (## 1445, 1446 & 1447 on the [B]Replacement parts for General Electric JVM1190BY01 Counter top microwave | AppliancePartsPros.com are properly engaged when the door is closed and the door is aligned properly.

The door assembly [part]AP2033180[/part]is correct part number.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=216742)

Gene.