I cannot find info on KUDPI2CRBS1 but there is info on a KUDP02CRBS1
Please check your model number.
Below is info on the 02CRBS1 unit
Here are the parts
[http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208572216.pdf](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5134902"]Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDP02CRBS1 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com[/URL]
Here is the tech sheet
[URL="http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208572216.pdf)
So I called in a repairman he wasn’t sure what it was but said he’d call kitchen aid.
Does not sound like much of a repairman if he did not check the part that you replaced. It is possible you got a bad replacement part, unlikely but possible. If you still have the old part check the solenoid coil if it’s resistance is low or zero then this could have taken out the triac on the control board.
He called me next day and told me "kitchen aid said it could be the soap dish unit or the control board but that they needed to be changed together as either one could be damaging the other one if I ran the washer even once while one was malfunctioning".
I can see the dispenser damaging the control board (if it’s solenoid is shorted) but cannot see the board damaging the solenoid. You would have heard it buzzing re: the board is not giving it enough voltage so it overheats. You should be able to see overheating on the solenoid when you remove the door panel, I doubt this is the case.
Always a possibility that they have a bad batch of replacement units that have been blowing the boards when installed so have come up with this to cover their you know whats
He quoted me $375
He is making a nice profit on this as the both parts only come to approximately $98.00 and he would probably get them for less than that, wholesale.
Does this sound right?
Not to me.
If this person came in, just listened to your problem and did not do any diagnosis, in my opinion you got ripped off and I would raise a stink about it as it is obvious they did not know what they were doing.
Remove power from the unit and remove the door liner.
Remove the wires from the dispenser solenoid and measure the solenoid’s coil, should be approximately 310 ohms. Also check each connector to the solenoids metal casing both should measure infinite ohms (open).
Check that the wires from the control board to the solenoid have continuity (0 ohms)
If the above are OK then it is probably just the control board that needs replacing.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.