The original board would do nothing, just a few lights would come on when pushing the buttons, looked it over , could find no obvious problem, fuse good, then replaced board. The unit ran good through one cycle (we think it finished the cycle) …next night the unit did the same as 1st, just a couple button lights worked.
I need help on how to troubleshoot this unit without just replacing boards as it seems something ruined the board. I checked the heater element, heater stat, thermistor, fuse good, but I stopped there.
Has anyone had these symptoms before or can give tips on troubleshooting steps before replacing the board again? …nothing obvious bad on the board either…maybe there is a magic button sequence that’ll just reset the baord???
I THINK!!! your problem is the TOUCH PAD, NOT the board. Remove the Ribbon connector to the board and GENTLY clean it. Make SURE when re-installing it that you "wiggle" it into place for a good connection.
You MUST have a good ground!!! Some of the new eletronics are VERY FUSSY !!! If you dont have a ground wire, This could cause some of your troubles!!!
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It’s grounded at the junction box correctly… I’m going to get a temp water supply hooked up and make a list of what definitly works when first reapplying the power…
I know these work: water pump, the drain motor, the water solinoid, over fill valve switch, checked the heater element, heater stat.
I have not checked the dispenser actuator though. Is there some type of overload, other than the fuse, on the control board that may require the power reboot of approx. 30 mins? It’s this running through one cycle and then quiting that’s killing me…I also have to verify that it is actually completeing the cycle…again I need the water supply so it can run uninterrupted.
Is the unit stainless or plastic, you will notice that the power in is different for them. Looks like the plastic units kill power to the control board whenever the door is opened. The stainless units keep the board powered up so if it hangs due to an error the only way to reset is to unplug it.
I would disconnect the keypad and check it with a meter.
This is a matrix type of keypad and may do all sorts of weird things if one of the directing diodes on the board goes.
Could also be you have a stuck key and it’s LED is not working.
Probably easiest to pull the keypad and do this at a table as there are a lot of keys and each should be checked with the meter using both polarities.
I was looking over the diagnostics section and saw this:
"[FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1]
[LEFT]STUCK KEY: [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]If the control detects that a key is stuck in the depressed position,
dishwasher operation will be suspended and the control will flash the
light for that key until the condition is corrected. If a key without a light is
stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the light for the Rinse Only/Quick Rinse key."
I did notice that when pressing the High-Temp Scrub, it will flash 3 times and then go out…does this mean anything? [/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
What’s next to check? I hate to buy another board, have two now and both do the same thing.
I am stumped as everything checks OK but for some reason the board is not resetting. It is like it is not running the timer to the end of the cycle, may be waiting for a signal/voltage from some thing and is not receiving it.
I agree that getting another board will just cost you dollars and I doubt it would fix the problem.
Could it be that the door switch is not opening?
When it does wash, it does a good job and runs normally correct?
If yes, I would be very temped to do a jiggery pokery and wire it up the same as a plastic tub unit. That way when the door is opened it should rest the control board by removing power to it totally.
OK, I went back and performed the cheks all again, formed a chart to keep things straight like you suggested. I believe I found a problem with the ID02 (I believe this is a diode ?). With the pos. lead on P1-1 and checking P1-12, the meter pegs out. When checking all of the diodes, this is the only instance in which the ohm meter moves. I checked all these diodes and push buttons with switching the pos. and neg. leads and I kept a chart. All the push buttons work correctly per the schematic. Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.
So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?
If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don’t hace to glue the new keypad on…I don’t know how good that’ll look and stay on? Please reply with your opinion quickly, I hope this is the problem?
Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.
So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?
Seems like your positive lead is not actually the positive meter’s voltage but it really does not matter.ID02 seems OK. Should conduct in one direction and not the other. But the other diodes are not correct.
[COLOR=Blue]
If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don’t hace to glue the new keypad on…I don’t know how good that’ll look and stay on?[/COLOR]
Sorry could not find this part number.
I believe the part you want is AP3133651 from the AppliancePartsPro link I included earlier.
Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.
So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?
Seems like your positive lead is not actually the positive meter’s voltage but it really does not matter.ID02 seems OK. Should conduct in one direction and not the other. But the other diodes are not correct.
If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don’t hace to glue the new keypad on…I don’t know how good that’ll look and stay on?
Sorry could not find this part number.
I believe the part you want is AP3133651 from the AppliancePartsPro link I included earlier.
— End quote
Great, finally I hope we have it diagnosed!! I’ll order the part and post the results later…Thanks in advance Denman, you’ve been a great help with this problem…I think you are right on with the keypad issue…I’ll let you know how it turns out…TTYL
How do you repair a stuck key? The "rinse only" key is flashing over and over and I think the "normal" key is the one that is stuck, because it is the only one we ever use.
I was looking over the diagnostics section and saw this:
"[FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1]
[SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold]STUCK KEY:
[/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]If the control detects that a key is stuck in the depressed position,[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]
[LEFT][SIZE=1]dishwasher operation will be suspended and the control will flash the[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]light for that key until the condition is corrected. If a key without a light is[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the light for the Rinse Only/Quick Rinse key."[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=1]I did notice that when pressing the High-Temp Scrub, it will flash 3 times and then go out…does this mean anything? [/SIZE][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT]
How do you repair a stuck key? The "rinse only" key is flashing over and over and I think the "normal" key is the one that is stuck, because it is the only one we ever use.
— End quote
I know in the schematic instructions it references troubleshooting for a stuck key…I found mine behind the bottom panel after I took it off, it’s taped in behind there if you’ve never removed it before…other than that, you’ll have to wait for Denman to reply…good luck
you could use the same troubleshooting technique I did and find out which key is stuck
— End quote
also not sure you can repair it, I think you need to verify that is the problem and you’ll probably have to replace the keypad, which comes with that top plastic panel, mine was $136…
My Kenmore dryer won’t start. Press button and nothing happens. Checked power to outlet - fine. The timer seems to be working - can hear it ticking. The dryer door connection seems ok. Any suggestions?
[/LEFT]