Control pad shows E1-F2 error. A&E Repair (which I now find out is partly owned by KitchenAid) wants $1,215.00 to fix this requiring 3 parts: 4455636, 4453661 and 4456323. The whole oven costs $2,200. Feel this is outragious. Your website suggestschecking a connection of switch pad and control panel. How do I check this connection? Any further suggestions?
Hell yes, you are being scammed!!! That is like, order it all, and you can’t miss. Listen, sometimes it is hard to distinguish if it is the control board or the touch pad is the problem, so you just have to go with what the manual says. Now, this is real easy. On the left side of the stove, when you open the door, there is a metal strip, it start at the bottom of the control panel to the bottom of the oven. On the bottom right side is a phillips head screw, take it out, and slide the metal strip down, and out. It will then expose another phillips head screw on the bottom left side of the control panel. Take it off, and do the same on the other side, and then lift up on the whole panel, and it will come off. The touch pad has a ribbon, about an inch and a half wide, that fits into a slot on the control board. Lift up on the black plastic clip on each side, and the clip that holds the ribbon on will come up just a little, so you can pull the ribbon out and reset it. Of course you are going to do this with the power off to the oven. Once you reset it, set the control panel back on without the screws, and turn on the breaker on, and see what happens. If it does not work, kill the power and remove the ribbon from the board, and set it back in place, and turn the power on. If you get the same code, replace the touch pad, if you don’t get that code replace the control board. Now just know, it might work, when you replace the board. If not, you will have to replace the touch pad. That is a rule of thumb, that I follow. Let me know what happens, before you order anything. Tom
Thanks so much. I will give it a try. Sounds easy enough as you describe it. I’ll let you know.
Good Luck. Tom http://www.applianceeducator.com
Oh well, oven was great Sunday but today started it’s old error routine. We re-called A&E because they never gave us a a written estimate. Different fellow came out and he only wants to replace the membrane swith (touchpad, I guess) charging us $262 for the part. (big difference from the first fellow who wanted $1100 for 3 parts). On line I can get get it for $179, but on backorder until January. What’s your thought - do you think I can replace it myself? Didn’t notice how it sits in it’s position - just reset the ribbon connection to the control board.
Where can you get part # 4456323 for that price? That is the part # that you gave for the toch pad. That is unbelievably cheap. My parts house sells it to me for 225.44. I would get it then and do it your self. Here is a picture. It is real easy. Let me know where you got that part. Tom
The part number he gave me is 4456332 which he called "key pad". I saw it on AppliancePartsPros for $172. Is this the right part?
That is a good price. I checked my suppliers, and list is 304.92. Tom
Is there a big difference in the key pad color for the Black or White Vs the Stainless Steel? It’s like $130 difference in cost. Is there somewhere I can see these parts? They dont sell the KECB208KSS0 anymore.
Hey Tom-
You may be proud - I installed the swithch membrane on our Stainless Steel Wall Oven. Did a test cleaning and discovered that the stainless steel plating covering the switch membrane pad got vey hot on the extreme left side - but not the rest of it. Is this normal or did I screw something up. Any ideas? I never took notice of this before during a cleaning - but never really checked as I am doing now after the repair.
Thanks.
I’m having an intermittent problem with my oven and broiler .
First of all, the cook top works fine but the oven and broiler will not always heat up. When the control is turned to the desired temp. the igniter glows after a few seconds then sometimes you here the gas turn on and it lights . This process may take 55 second or 1.5 min. or not at all. Same prob. w/ the broiler. Any ideas??
Hi,
I have the above dishwasher. The dishes on the upper rack are not getting clean. Lower rack they are fine. I filed it with water and let it start and opened the door to see if spray arms were moving. Top arm was turning as was the lower arm. Middle arm, under tray, not turning at all. Remove mid spray arm and it seemed clear and water then came out where I took the arm off. Put the arm back on and still no turning. You can however spin the spray arm freely by hand. Any help out there.
Thanks 
I am having the same issue with our GE profile dishwasher. The dishes on the upper rack are not getting clean and seems to be related to the middle spray arm not turing (the spray arm below the top rack). The lower rack & upper rack spin fine. The middle arm, under tray, not turning at all. I have removed mid spray arm and inspected it & water delivery channel; all seems to be fine. It does not appear to me missing any parts from the exploded view. Any help out there.
Lots of posts about middle dishwasher spray arm not rotating. The spray arm was removed and appeared to be completely clean. I couldn’t find instructions on removing the lower spray arm with a telescoping tube so as I last resort I decided to use a bottle brush and poke it down the central telescoping tube. Although I couldn’t see anything, there must have been something lodged in it which prevented sufficient stream pressure to cause the middle spray arm to rotate. One push of the bottle brush fixed the problem!