[SIZE=2]Hello,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]I have an issue with the Kitcheaid icemaker. I was trying to surf thru all the posts but there is too much info and I really can’t tell which would be applicable to my situation. I need someone to work with me and walk me thru to pin point the source of the problem…[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]About 1 week ago I have replaced water filter in my KSCS23INSS00 kItchenAid side by side refrigerator. Since then icemaker is not producing the ice. I don’t know if channging filter has anything to do with icemaker or that was just coincidence. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]The red indicator light blinks twice and stops for about 1 second and blinks again. When flap is held it goes steady on. The water line is not frozen becauce some how last night when I was checking the indicator light the icemaker worked for few second, filled the tray with the water and icecubes are sitting not ejected in the tray this morning.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Please someone let me know what it could be…[/SIZE]
Update: I just checked icemaker again and red light was not blinking, I stuck my hand behind and under the tray and the heating element was hot but icemaker did not eject the ice. After some time red ligth went back to blinking mode and heating element is cool.
I have checke thr inlet tube, it is not frozen. I have also purged all air from the water line…please read my initial post for all the things I noticed and did/didn’t do…
Thanks in advance for any additional input to figure out what is wrong with my icemaker.
Shut off water to the Fridge.
Disconnect the water line to the ice maker.
Put the ice maker water line into a glass or container.
When the "Water Inlet Valve" calls for water, water will be dumped
into the container. If no water, replace the Water Inlet Valve"
Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator and swap the wires between the ice maker and water dispenser solenoids. Press the water dispenser lever and check if the ice maker got water.
Thanks. I will do the diagnostics tomorrow.
In mean time here is one more observation. After ice tray was filled with water (during testing inlet valve) ice cubes formed and the ejector rotated maybe 1/4-1/2 turn so ice cubes are now partially standing up in the tray but are not rejected…
Of course, I’m having similar problems. Unit is a KitchenAid KSRW25CRSS01 side-by-side, and at least by all visual appearances the icemaker is the AP3182733.
I’ve been through many of the troubleshooting steps. The optical sensor LED codes seem to indicate everything’s okay there.
I’ve checked the voltage across L & N and get nothing. Disconnecting the harness and checking the voltage on the freezer side gives me just under 100 volts. I’ve checked the resistance across the two check points (heater - L to H and motor - L to M) on the checklist I conveniently found underneath the refrigerator, and the heater gives me the specified resistance (51 ohms, 52 measured), while the motor gives me about half the specified (4300 ohms vs. 8800).
Sorry, I don’t have it handy; it’s actually in a vacant neighbor’s house my wife is selling. The icemaker is one of the few things needing to be fixed before closing.
— End quote
Very likely the problem is a bad ice maker, but there is the diagnosis test to make sure exactly what is wrong.
The test procedures are different depending on the age of the refrigerator which can be found by the serial number.
You can try to replace the ice maker first to see if it’ll fix the problem. If it would not and you’ll order it from Appliance Parts Pros, you can return it even if it was installed.
Gene if you are there i have a problem with a GE GSS25TSR side by side. Freezer melted everything 2 days ago and now wont go above 24 degrees. the crisper drawer is frozen as well as the water in the door line.
New icemaker arrived today, and after installation the problem is solved. One minor difficulty with the new one is the height of what I’ll call the receiver cup, where the water line dispenses into the icemaker. On the new icemaker this cup is about twice the height of the one on the original icemaker. With some careful deflecting of the dispenser nozzle, however, I was able to get the icemaker in place. I thought trying to work the nozzle in by flexing it preferable to cutting it off shorter (and possibly finding out later that that was a problem), or pulling apart the old and new icemakers and replacing the new cup with the old one. Anyway, it had made some ice cubes within an hour of me finishing the installation. Thanks, everyone.
— Begin quote from Gene;286234
Very likely the problem is a bad ice maker, but there is the diagnosis test to make sure exactly what is wrong.
The test procedures are different depending on the age of the refrigerator which can be found by the serial number.
You can try to replace the ice maker first to see if it’ll fix the problem. If it would not and you’ll order it from Appliance Parts Pros, you can return it even if it was installed.
I ran the insulated wire just like you mentioned in the post below but there was no movement in the ice maker. Can I assume this thing needs replacing?
— Begin quote from Gene;229102
Pull the ice maker out but do not unplug the wire harness.
[LEFT]Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.[/LEFT]
I ran the insulated wire just like you mentioned in the post below but there was no movement in the ice maker. Can I assume this thing needs replacing?
— End quote
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
I have a similar problem with a Kitchenaid KSCS23INSS00 Manufactured 11-04. The refrigerator was part of the home we purchased recently. The icemaker hasn’t worked since day 1. I have looked into the forum, and I am looking for a concise way to diagnose:
Electrical measurements for the circuits at the light sensor and transmitter
Electrical measurements for the circuits at the Ice Maker itself
Some circuit diagram that shows how the two work together
Are there any other dependencies in the ice maker system, or is it just the items listed in 1-3?
Next bit of info, the light sensor is for sure bad on my fridge, based on the flashing light codes and diagnosis I’ve read on the thread. I’m afraid the icemaker is also bad, based on using the shorting techniques on the Icemaker controller (Shorting L to V with the Icemaker still plugged into the harness).
Additionally, I’m curious to hear what the thoughts are on replacing an icemaker on a 10 year old fridge. Would the experts on this forum suggest spending the money on a new fridge instead? I’m asking this, because I’ve had two of my most recent fridges last about 12 years after their compressors have gone bad. I don’t want to throw good money after bad, but want to have a fridge that can actually make ice.
I read the post by Gene on 6-6-2010, regarding swapping wires for the solenoids that feed the water dispenser, and also for the ice maker. When I did this test, activating the water dispenser did activate the solenoid for the ice maker water fill line, which mean the water inlet valve/solenoid assembly is working properly. Looks like now the problem is upstream from there. What other tests can I do to determine what is causing this problem of not having water going into the ice maker?
