KitchenAid KSRB25FHSS02 Need Service Manual

Hi,

I’m looking for the service manual for the KitchenAid KSRB25FHSS02.

The GFI behind the unit recently tripped leaving it without power overnight. That was a week ago. Since then, the refrigerator side is barely cold and the top half of the feezer is not cold enough to freeze.

Thank you.

Tom

Or I’ll settle for the manual for any KitchenAid or Whirlpool side-by-side models manufactured in 1999. :slight_smile:

Thanks.

Tom

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=KSRB25FHSS02

Here is the wiring diagram
[http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html](http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202200279.pdf"]http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202200279.pdf[/URL]

Here are a couple manual which may help
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/635e8a1fd20bcbad852573150044a708/$FILE/R-65_4314066B.pdf

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/211453efe0913d4b85256ab00053d3be/$FILE/4321940.pdf

Normally it is not recommended to run a fridge on a GFI.

First check to ensure the compressor, condenser fan and evaporator fan are running.
Note the evap fan may not run all the time. I am not sure on this.

If OK, remove the evaporator coil cover so you can see them.
If heavily iced over you probably have a defrost problem.
Could be it built up enough to provide a circuit path from one of the connectors to the frame so when defrost kicked in it blew the GFI. Only takes milli-amps of leakage to trip a GFI.

Here are a couple good sites with additional fridge repair help.
[URL="http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html)
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Thank you very much.

I won’t get a chance to work on it until next Friday as I’m out of town. I did replace the defrost timer yesterday, as from my research that seemed like the most likely component. Of course the replacement part was different and had an extra wire coming out of the side with multiple versions of the instructions regarding wire attachement to one of the terminals based upon connector wiring color. But 12 hours later, no change.

I can see the evaporator coils (a small portion) and there’s a very light bit of frost, but not all iced up.

I’m thinking the next most likely comonent could be the bi-metal defrost thermostat. I think the evaporator fan is running, it’s hard to tell. I do feel air circulation in the freezer compartment.

I know GFI is a bad idea. I hate the way this house is wired. There’s also other lighting on the fridge circuit.

Tom

I have gotten back to it. One of the first 3 things suggested appears to be the issue. The evaporator fan.

I have been bothered by the fact that the lower freezer was cold enough to freeze, yet the upper freezer was not, and the refrigerator side was barely cool. The more I learned, the more it seemed like an airflow issue. Without the fan running and being hidden, it’s definitely difficult to know if it’s running if you haven’t been sticking your head in the freezer and observing the sound of it in operation (if one can hear it then).

I took the back panel out of the freezer and sure enough. The coils were plenty cold and frost free. I turned the fan blade with my fingers and it felt wobbly on the shaft. I kept on flicking it and it seemed like it wanted to turn. So I continued and finally it begrugingly started turning on it’s own, though with a noticeable wobble.

Is there anything else I should replace as long as I’ve got the interior back panel out of the freezer?

Thanks for the help and for the push towards the correct solution.

Tom

Is there anything else I should replace as long as I’ve got the interior back panel out of the freezer?

No, it sounds like everything else in the evaporator section is OK