Kitchenaid Oven has power but will not heat up

Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
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[LEFT]We have a Kitchenaid oven model KDRP407HSS13. Last year I had an error on the display and after some research, I replaced the fuse behind the control panel. That fixed that problem and it has worked for several months. Now the oven gets power to the contol panel, the oven lights work and there are no errors on the display. When I select any baking option and hit enter, the oven does not heat up. I read on this forum that there is another thermal fuse behind the oven just above the convection fan (which I have located). [/LEFT]

[LEFT]Can I bypass the fuse using a jumper wire to see if that is the problem before I order a new fuse or could it be another issue?[/LEFT]

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Does it Broil?

Gene.

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No, it does not broil. In fact it doesn’t matter what the dial is on (proof, preheat, bake, convection, broil, etc) it does not heat up.

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Most likely the problem is a bad oven shut down thermal fuse (#37 on the diagram).

You can bypass it for the test purpose only, but it is more save to test the fuse for continuity.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5137405

Gene.

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Gene, I apologize, as you can tell I am a novice. Is there any way to easily check the fuse for continuity? THANKS!!!

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The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter.

Gene.

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THANKS Gene! I will pull the thermal fuse out tomorrow and test it for continuity.

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You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Gene.

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Gene, I tested the oven shut down fuse for continuity and it checks out okay. Do you have any other ideas for me? THANKS!!!

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It’s been almost a year since our last conversion. You did not have time to fix it or it broke again?

Gene.

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I just got around to testing the fuse today and it has continuity. The oven still gets power but will not heat up.

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Verify 240 VAC to the range. If the voltage is correct, replace the control board (12 on the [B]diagram[/B]).

Gene.

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Gene, I am at a loss. I verified that I had 240 to the oven. I ordered the control board and it came yesterday. After installing it this morning, the over still does not heat up (it does not matter what setting the dial is on; bake, broil, conv bake, conv broil, etc). Any other ideas?

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If there is 240 VAC to the range, the oven shutdown fuse is good and the power control board is new, then the only part left (very unusual) is the selector and set control assembly. If the old power control board is still good and you ordered the part from APP, you can easy return it.

Gene.
P.S. Before order this part you may want to check for 240 VAC between the Red & Black wires at the power control board and 120 VAC between Black wire & chassis and Red wire & chassis at the same board.

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Gene, I have attached a picture for your review. I have 120 VAC between left black wire and chassis and right black wire and chassis. I also have 120 VAC between right red wire and chassis. I have 240 VAC between the right red wire and the right and left black wires. But I have neither 120 VAC to chassis or 240 VAC from the left red wire. Should I have power to the left red wire?

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— Begin quote from ratkinso;612220

…But I have neither 120 VAC to chassis or 240 VAC from the left red wire. Should I have power to the left red wire?..

— End quote

You should have power there if the Bake or Broil is on.

Gene.

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Gene, I still don’t have power to the left red wire even with bake or broil on. Does this still point to a bad selector and set control assembly (Part number: AP3873511[COLOR=black])?
[/COLOR]

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— Begin quote from ratkinso;600158

I just got around to testing the fuse today and it has continuity. The oven still gets power but will not heat up.

— End quote

How did you check it?

You have to retest it.

Gene.

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— Begin quote from Gene;307083

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter.

Gene.

— End quote

Gene-
Thanks for the great information on A.P.P.!
I’m having the exact same problem with my KA stove of the same model. It’s about 2 years old and maybe used less than 50 times! (I travel for work) I used it last weekend and now the ignitiors and oven (bake, broil, clean, etc) are not working. I’ve read as much as I can online and found this to be the most helpful.
I am very much a novice when it comes to appliances. Am I able to check the continuity with:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_94266-12704-61-086_0__?productId=3129839
http://www.lowes.com/pd_136283-12704-61-746_0__?Ntt=ideal+61-746&UserSearch=ideal+61-746&productId=3095835&rpp=32

With the analog clamp meter I can 0.0 out the Ohms and when I test the Thermal Fuse I receive 0.0 as well. Does this mean the fuse is bad?
Thanks for all your help!

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If neither the surface burners igniters nor the oven heating elements work, then the fist thing you may want to check is the voltage to the range. Very likely the "L2" leg is missing.

Gene.