Hi,
I have a Kitchen Aid KSBP25SFJSS00 Side/Side refrigerator. We noticed that the freezer was thawing, and refrig side was warming. Checked fans, and internal evap. fan and also external condenser fan were running all the time. Would hear a click, low humming and the internal light would dim for about 10 seconds, then another click and lights go back to normal. Check condenser coils and cleaned (they were clogged up with hair/lint). The compressor was quite warm, so I let everything cool down for a few hours, then turned it back on, and it started cooling right down. No unusual noise, compressor started up with a quiet hum. Figuring I got lucky, I let the (now nearly empty) system run, figuring to load it the next morning (12 hrs later). I checked it before bed, Several items (non perishible freezer mugs) were frozen again, and it was making Ice. Fridge shelves felt cold to the touch. In the morning, I checked and the symptoms were back. Ice was melting, Click and the lites dim for 10 seconds or so, then click again. A few minutes later, the click - click happens again. On and on, but the system isn’t cooling any more. Don’t know if the system ever shut off the compressor due to reaching it’s set point or not.
I’m hoping the compressor is OK because it started up and cooled things down fairly fast, at least when everything had been off for awhile.
Compressor is a EMBRACO EGS 100 HCL (R134a). Start device on the side is a white colored block with 2 wires running to it (white and red/blk) so didn’t match what I saw on the parts list. Couldn’t see if/where the start capacitor is.
Can you provide some guidance as to what to check? What is the most likely issue? I shut it down again and after several hours,starting up it did the exact same thing. It’s almost like it will start the compressor when it’s cool (or only warm), but not when it’s hot.
You have a hard starting compressor. During peak power usage periods, the compressor has trouble starting and when it gets warm, the compressor has trouble starting due to compressor reduced performance due to increased copper resistance.
The other possability is a burnt wire somplace, voltage check at the compressor would confirm that.
Hi, I’ll check voltages at the compressor. I had a problem a few years ago with cold solder joints on the control board at the compressor relay, but in that case, I had no voltage at the compressor or fan. Now the fan is spinning all the time, but perhaps the problem is similar. Is there anything else to be done or checked for this problem, or is the solution to replace the compressor?
The lights dimming means the compressor is drawing high current, might want to verify with an amprobe. Compressor is showing all the signs of either varnish buildup, or partially burnt start winding.
The lights dimming means the compressor is drawing high current, might want to verify with an amprobe. Compressor is showing all the signs of either varnish buildup, or partially burnt start winding.
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Well, to make the story stranger, after my better half reset the icemaker wire arm (there was a piece of ice blocking it), she reports the refrigerator has been cooling, making Ice and doing what she’d normally expect all day. I’ll have to wait until symptoms return to test voltages at the compressor.
Could it be as simple as a weak start capacitor or loose connection you mentioned earlier?
I’m Guessing that the other options you gave are both expensive, and mean I’m running on borrowed time before major expense to hire a pro to change the compressor or to start shopping (counter depth units are so expensive).
When you disturb seemingly not associated parts with the compressor,and it starts working, it leads me to suspect a intermittent connection someplace. I would buy non-residue contact cleaner at Wall-Mart and disconnect- connect power connectors while spraying them (particularily behind the control panel), might fix it.
Well, after working for several days, the symptoms are back… typical click slight hum for about 5 seconds or so click and nothing other than the fans (compressor and evaporator running). Lights dim slightly when the the compressor tries to start, but not very much. I pulled everything apart again and checked voltages at the compressor 119VAC all the time, dropping to just under 114 when the klixon kicks back on. That overload protector has had a workout; glad it’s still working.
I pulled the start device, and it rattled just a little bit. Got no ohm reading between start and run pins on the start device at all. Checked windings on the compressor and got about 8 ohms start to run, and about 4 ohms on one side, 3.7 or so on the other while the compressor was still quite hot. No shorts to ground. I understand that reading motor windings with a DVM is of limited use beyond finding a burnt out or high resistance winding since it’s very low voltage DC and the readings will vary meter to meter.
Next, I pulled apart the start device… and found what looks like what used to be a silver/grey disk in multiple pieces wedged against the start and run contacts where there are little tabs that look like they’re supposed to hold this silver thing. I think maybe the start winding wasn’t getting proper power? Perhaps the compressor only started when broken bits and pieces were wedged in just enough to bridge the start winding. There was a bit or scorching around those broken bits.
Will see if I can find the device… it is labeled 4SP1035, and underneath it’s got the number 2188367 and 19 B00R. Only 1 white, 1 red connection.
I’m hoping the new start device will fix this. Sure better than what you were suggesting previously.
I’m assuming your start device is a rather large, white box. If so, order a new one here AP3885060. Very easy to wire up, just make sure you plug in the run capacitor into it.
It doesn’t appear to have a start capacitor wired directly to it. There is only a Red wire connected to the overload terminal and a white wire connected to one leg of the start device. Where would the start capacitor wire in? what pins on the compressor/start dev does it normally connect to?
The parts breakdown shows a RUN capacitor that mounts to the side of the fridg. Sometimes they are an option(not needed). The wire from it go between the run and start pins on the start device.
Locally sourced the replacement start device 8201802 which is now separate start device, overload and cover. Got lucky; a local supplier had 1 in stock or I would have ordered from this site. Could NOT locate the RUN capacitor, nor how it might be wired. The parts house couldn’t locate a part # for it, or I would have changed it too. Oh well, in any case, replaced the old start-dev with the new parts and the fridge is cooling normally now. Have heard set point stops and starts as well as defrost cycles. I get a click now when it starts, but suspect that is the new part substitute for the old. I’m wondering if it’s a relay with timed capacitor circuit, rather than the variable resistor type of old?
In any case, I thank you for your assistance, and I’m happy it doesn’t appear to be the more serious problems you mentioned, at least at this time.