Based on the low side pressure, looks like your heading in the right direction. It is hard to tell how much 134 your adding without measuring it. How much does the icemachine call for? It’s listed on the model# tag
Also did you replace the filterdryer?
— Begin quote from abadfish66;43254
Based on the low side pressure, looks like your heading in the right direction. It is hard to tell how much 134 your adding without measuring it. How much does the icemachine call for? It’s listed on the model# tag
— End quote
It calls for 6.5 oz by weight - added through the high side. Based on everybody’s feedback about the low side vacuum it seems as if there’s a clog. I was going to remove the evaporator and see if I can find a clog.
— Begin quote from abadfish66;43257
Also did you replace the filterdryer?
— End quote
No, could that be clogged? Enough for no performance?
If it is restricted, chances are high it will be at the captube end that you brazed, or in the filterdryer. You really don’t need to remove the evap.
I would add it through the low side, that might be your problem. It’s more dificult to add through the high side.
Charge it with the can upside down if your not already
Yes, liquid freon comes out of the high side if I push the valve.
I’ve added an entire can of 134a (12 oz). Some has leaked out. It is supposed to hold 6.5 oz.
Where’s the captube? The evaporator has 3 solder connections: to the compressor, to the condensor, and there’s a small tube (hot gas).
I don’t see how I could check for clogs without removing the evaporator.
The cap tube is the real small diameter line that comes off the evap. Now that you added the entire can, what is your lowside pressure? Is the condender getting hot. Is the accumulator freezing?
if you have added that much freon and it still pulls into a deep vacuum it is definitely restricted you need to isolate the high and low sides and with a process tube adaptor You blow nitrogen through it and depending on how long you left the system open it could be contaminated with moisture. flush the system real good with Nu_Calgon R11 Flush, Then flush both sides with nitrogen I would replace the line drier and then put it in a vacuum for at least an hour. Then recharge it
— Begin quote from abadfish66;43281
The cap tube is the real small diameter line that comes off the evap. Now that you added the entire can, what is your lowside pressure? Is the condender getting hot. Is the accumulator freezing?
— End quote
Low side is -17. It was -20 before I added more freon.
The condensor is still cool.
The evaporator/accumulator is not getting cold.
— Begin quote from v2k04;43282
if you have added that much freon and it still pulls into a deep vacuum it is definitely restricted you need to isolate the high and low sides and with a process tube adaptor You blow nitrogen through it and depending on how long you left the system open it could be contaminated with moisture. flush the system real good with Nu_Calgon R11 Flush, Then flush both sides with nitrogen I would replace the line drier and then put it in a vacuum for at least an hour. Then recharge it
— End quote
Sorry to ask, but how do you "isolate the high and low sides and with a process tube adaptor?"
I only have compressed air. Will that ruin the system? I’ll pull a vacuum after I finish.
I didn’t check the evaporater for clogs before I installed it. Are they ever clogged from the factory?
When you push the flex clean key, instead of going into self clean, it just beeps, but does not show an error code.
— Begin quote from donald marden;114798
when you push the flex clean key, instead of going into self clean, it just beeps, but does not show an error code.
— End quote
it sounds like a clock/timer problem. that is the part you are touching. it is not that hard to replace tom
Hello! I seem to have a water leakage issue with my dishwasher. It starts pushing water out on either side of the unit when it fills up. Upon first look it seemed the door gasket was at fault. The corners were smashed really flat so I went ahead and ordered a new gasket(WD08X10057). No go. Same issue. So I thought maybe the corner seals so I replaced them as well, still leaks. There is a gap of about 4 inches at the bottom of the gasket. I see in the parts diagram that there is an insert for in there(WD08X10015). Did my unit come with this insert? I can’t see how it would have gotten lost? Is it possible I have another issue all together?
Hopefully you guys can help, thanks for your time!!!
Oven ignites and turns off before reaching temperature:confused:
My dryer runs fine but it will not cycle down. Whichever setting you start it on, it just stays there and will run until you stop it. It will not cycle down. What is causing this and is it an easy fix?
I recently purchased a used GE front load washer and on EVERY load that I wash it has a very load thumping unbalanced noise as if the wash tub is actually hitting the cabinent wall. Also the wash cycle seems to keep adding time to the cycle. It does not matter what size load or what type of fabric it still does it. I installed the stabilizing bolts to transport the unit and tried my best to totally level unit prior to first wash. And I did remove the bolts and spacers prior to first wash as well. It does have the pedalstals installed under both the washer and dryer.
The first thing I would do is open the door after it started to leak and check the water level. Check for bubbles in the water.
Also you can adjust the door latch by moving the latch keeper (#50 on the [B]diagram[/B]) inward to have the door closed more tight.
Post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=26124425&&model_id=5241845
Gene.
What exactly is difference between the set and real temperatures?
What are the complete model number, the serial number and the MFG number of the range?
Gene.