[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]My water hardness checked out between 0 and 50 ppm, soft. btw, no drug store in our little town carried the test strips, but I found a kit to test everything in Lowes.
I used a gallon of white vinigar at a time in the wash cycle. I ended up doing this about 3 different times.
[/FONT][/SIZE] — Begin quote from Gene;278986
Did you measure the water hardness? It’s pretty simple to do with a special test strips sold in any drug store. You can choose the right detergent only if you know exactly how hard is the water in your house.
The way how you used white vinegar is very important in order to get good results. I never used CLR and not sure if it works, but I used white vinegar many times and I have a lot of appreciated customers who did it to with very good rate of success.
We replaced the entire sump assembly. Machine works like new. The teeth on the pump shaft were worn where the chopper assembly white plastic teeth mates to that shaft. So basically, the chopper blade was not spinning. Gunk would get on the chopper assembly screen in just a couple of wash loads and the flow inside the unit would be hampered to the point where the top spray arm wouldn’t even turn. The sounds inside were more "dribbling" compared to the "whooshing" when it works correctly.
The part was only $90 and it made an $1,100 machine work like it used to. I was worried I would have to replace this as it is 8 years old. Now, however, all of the critical mechanical components are brand new and the performance is back to what it should be.
My advice to others with poor top-rack cleaning - replace the entire sump unit. You can’t see the black rubber teeth on the pump shaft. If they are worn, and you replace the chopper assembly, it may not fix your problem. Replacing the whole unit gives you a brand new motor (if the old one lost power), brand new impeller (if the old one as worn), brand new chopper assembly, etc.
Thanks for the advice Gene and good luck to others with this same issue.
[SIZE=3]My water hardness checked out between 0 and 50 ppm, soft. btw, no drug store in our little town carried the test strips, but I found a kit to test everything in Lowes.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I used a gallon of white vinigar at a time in the wash cycle. I ended up doing this about 3 different times.[/SIZE]
— End quote
Try to use a detergent with 0 to 2% of phosphorus.
it took forevdr to get into this site after reading all of the help for my dishwasher not cleaning top rack… I cant get the plastic screw/top/plug whatever it is off of the sprayarm in the bottom to clean the blades… used a pr of pliers is loosened now… dont want to break it, how long is it? should I just pull or what?any ideas? is only a yr or so old… dont wanna have to do this often thats for sure… was told that rinsing wasnt necessary w this model… NOW it is… thanks…
Im wondering why I would remove the arm anyway, on the bottom if the top rack is the one not getting clean… I realize now it has een less than a yr so hopin is under warranty. as far a swater hardness, we do use softened water and isnt happening elsewhere at this time… the top arm, in ceiling of dw is cruddy, looks old so cleaned. the soap is what the co installing told us to use… powder NOT liquid… thanks, am workin on it…
I don’t understand. That is all I can buy anyway, including your "disliked" Cascade.
Anyway, the problem is not getting the dishes clean, the problem is the powdery residue left afterwards. It wipes off easily, and I think it may be soap scum, as the rinse water shows bubbly water during rinse.
— Begin quote from Gene;282978
Try to use a detergent with 0 to 2% of phosphorus.
