Leaking tib at the main bearing

Washer Repair
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1

Howdy,
my washer is leaking at the bottom of the tub. looks like its leaking at the bearing. is this common? how hard to fix? any kits? washer still runs great.
tia
jkl

3

Hi Tia,

In order to fix this water leak the hub and seal kit has to be installed.

This is not the very hard job but it needs a basic skills.

The new part is coming with the complete installation instructions.

  • The part number for the hub & seal kit is AP171986

Here are the break down diagrams for the Amana washer http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=647411&&model_id=19248

Gene.

4

thank you very much
jkl

5

Even though your door switches appear to be fine, one of them is bad, most likely the top switch.

6

I have mechanically checked and visually inspected the switches one by one and unless there is an internal problem with the switch itself, I think it may be something else. Each switch makes full contact and is fully depressed when the door is closed. I am able to see and hear each switch fully connect. I would be willing to go get a new switch, but it appears they are working fine.

Could the problem be traced to the HV capacitor or the HV diode?

7

was wondering which component is at fault. cicuit board or touch screen? if have power to borad but no lights on unit ,nothing runs? thanks for anyhelp tom

8

If you have 120v to the board and nothing works, it’s most likely a bad transformer on the board which means the board would need to be replaced.

9

Stick a screwdriver in there and turn it counterclockwise and the whole assembly will unscrew from the tub.

10

Put the sprayarm back in, start the washer, and when it’s done filling tell me how much water is in there, you might not have enough water.

11

Can you hear it filling with water when you start it?

12

If it’s draining when filling, do this. Take off the kickplate at the bottom. To the left of the motor is the drain solenoid, is it melted and stuck in the down position?

13

It seems to hold maybe a 1/2" of water at most. Water has come in enough to raise the sprayer somewhat. Is the device in the front left corner a float switch? It seems to be draining and filling at the same time.

14

With a stuck drain solenoid is the pump moving water out the drain and into the spray head at the same time when it should be doing one or the other. Resulting in low pressure on the spray head.

15

The drain solenoid seems to be functioning at least I can see it cycle with maybe a 3/8" move.

16

cant get the ice water panel to coime off door,dont want to break panel. i belive it jsts need a micro switch

17

Somebody please help… My Maytag fridge/freezer has developed a leak. It comes from a black pipe that can be seen through a grill at the bottom of the freezer side (inside the freezer). I believe the leek has something to do with the black pipe as the water slowly drips down and off from it. There is always a frozen puddle at the bottom and I have a small puddle on the outside of the door most days. The freezer and fridge both seem to be working OK, as do the ice maker and water despenser.

18

Hi Gang-

This washer is an older model coin op that I’ve been nursing along with a transmission oil leak (messy, kind of a screechy sound on start up/agitate)but still working. I’ve already defeated the 2 speed transmission feature as it was "hot shifted" which wiped out the shift bracket.

Now it seems to have a water leak that appears to be coming from the back of the outer tub above the drain bulkhead appearing only during the agitate cycle. Pull the plug and the leak stops. I’d say it leaked maybe a gallon during 1 cycle, but less than 1 cup the previous cycle (my own wash). The fill valve and fill tube look OK. Could it leak water through the transmission during agitate only? If so, any chance of finding a new transmission? This site says obsolete :mad: .

Thanks in Advance for Any Help,

Prof. Maneuver

19

The pump on this washer recirculates water during the agitation. I would check the hose which goes from the pump to the top of the tub (#828 on the [B]diagram[/B]). Also check the tub itself for a rusted though holes.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=20729227&&model_id=231059

Gene.

20

applianceman said:
The drain is stopped up (the black pipe). In the freezer look at the back bottom under the evaporator coils you will have to remove the cover off the back of the freezer (the gill you are viewing the pipe through). If there is any ice over that pipe remove the ice and using a turkey baser or any squirt bottle force hot water down the hole to clear the drain. Once done mix water with baking soda and pure it down the drain to prevent this from happing again anytime soon. Refrigerator Leaking Repair Guide
Thanks for the advice. I’ll try it and let you know if it works…

21

My oven stopped heating up. The broiler and stove top worked perfectly. The igniter was glowing red just no gas so after reading several posts in this forum I replaced the valve. This did not help so I thought the igniter must not be getting hot enough so I replaced that. Now I am getting gas it’s just very low flame and takes several seconds the completely light the burner and the preheat light does not go off. I’ve found that if I use the broiler n hi for several minutes, then switch to the oven I do get the preheat light to go off and it does seem to stay hot enough to bake, but I’m sure it’s not getting nearly as hot as it should.

I don’t want to just keep buying parts and hoping … any ideas what to try next?