I am getting the od code on my maytag washer. I have tried the magnet down the side of the lid but it is not working. Any ideas?
— Begin quote from sstrasser;364808
I am getting the od code on my maytag washer. I have tried the magnet down the side of the lid but it is not working. Any ideas?
— End quote
FAV6800A correct?
You placed a magnet over the Left gray bumper and that did not clear the error code is that correct?
If so it would be time to open up the Left Hand Lid lock and see if you lost signaling (broken lead on the magnetic reed relay) in that assembly.
See if this post will help FAV6800A/FAV9800A Left Hand Lid Lock issues
I have another post in a sticky for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A related to the lid locks. Just Google ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW""
You will find additional support for the error code there starting 5th post down…Dick
Thanks… Doesn’t appear to have any broken wires, etc… Magnet worked again. I will check out your other posts… Thanks much
“”Magnet worked again.”"
Are you talking about the internal Lid Magnet? See pic
If the OD error code pops up again I would check with a DVM to see if you are losing +12VDC signaling back to Conn P3_ pin 9 for +12VDC signaling Lid Closed Input/Lid Open Input referenced to Conn_P3 Pin 10 TDS Sensor Gnd. With the lid closed you would measure +12VDC and with the lid open you will measure no DC voltage.
Just a FYI;
If you lose that signaling at the start of a wash cycle (when you hit the starts key pad) you will throw an OP error code to the LED display.
If you are working now open the washer lid and hit the Start key Pad and you should throw an OP error code "Lid Is Open".
Now with the washer lid open and the OP error code showing in the display place a large magnet over the left gray bumper and the OP (Lid is Open) error code should clear. see mag pic. this is just an easy way to check +12VDC signaling back to the Control Board when troubleshooting OD and OP error codes and locating the point of failure.
Good luck…Dick
The magnet over the left gray bumper worked again (for awhile)… Now magnet not working and with the od code on and lid open, I placed magnets over the left bumper but od code still on…Any ideas…
— Begin quote from sstrasser;386051
The magnet over the left gray bumper worked again (for awhile)… Now magnet not working and with the od code on and lid open, I placed magnets over the left bumper but od code still on…Any ideas…
— End quote
The Control board is more than likely not seeing the magnetic reed relay switch signaling. Could be an open lead on the magnetic switch relay.
Google this; [COLOR=black]Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW [/COLOR] the firts hit will take you there.
At the 7th post in that sticky I go into great detail of troubleshooting the "OP" error code. You troubleshoot the "OD" error code the same way.
You can get the Service Manual at the sticky also.
Dick
— Begin quote from dh1200s;386121
The Control board is more than likely not seeing the magnetic reed relay switch signaling. Could be an open lead on the magnetic switch relay.
Google this; [COLOR=black]Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW [/COLOR]the firts hit will take you there.
At the 7th post in that sticky I go into great detail of troubleshooting the "OP" error code. You troubleshoot the "OD" error code the same way.
You can get the Service Manual at the sticky also.
Dick
— End quote
Good Morning Dick. I have read most of the threads of yours that deal with the FAV6800AWW and the dc code. I ran my machine thru the Quick Spin Test and from the 35-40 RPM range I’m getting a pretty severe vibration. Due to speed of the tub, it seems to clear and not be so violent at about the 65 range. Before I begin to take it down, do you think I’m looking at anything more than the clutch cleanup? This is a "13" s/n machine. Thanks.
Hey Alex,
When you go into Service Mode and run the Quick Spin Test the machine Console Control Board will signal the Motor Controller to spin up the Drive Motor to 90 RPM indicated on the Console. The next step is 150 RPM as the test calls out on up to 850 RPM.
Some questions;
Have you been taking DC or UC unbalance errors?
You ran the Quick Spin Test with an empty wash basket correct and you have severe vibration?
Does the machine step thru all ranges up to 850 RPM successfully completing the Quick Spin test?
If the wash basket is empty and you are experiencing “”pretty severe vibration”” I feel this is not a Clutch Issue.
I say it’s not the Clutch Pulley based on an empty wash basket Quick Spin Test or a Spin Only cycle. Put a wet wash load in the the wash basket and see if you throw DC or UC unbalance error with severe wash tub swings/wash tub banging around.
I would drop out the Clutch Pulley and inspect for a Tub Seal leak (rust present on the Clutch bearing assembly. If the Clutch can be cleaned up reassemble; see Sticky Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW starting at Post #6; Part 2; Clutch Pulley Removal
If you read the Service Notes from that Sticky Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW starting at Post 5 ; Part 1; DC or UC unbalance error codes in Spin Cycle what is causing this issue?
I explain why the Tumblers rotate at the start of the Spin Cycle and the possible Clutch maintenance that most of the time will clear the issue for extended service life…if not severly rusted up. I’m finding these machines are approaching or are at the point of service life where it is time for a Tub Seal replacement. If you dive into that see this post; FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
But let’s have some more feedback on your issue and clarify the questions about the Quick Spin Test that you ran.
It is always good to start a new thread for your issue but lets stay here for your response………Dick
— Begin quote from dh1200s;387845
Hey Alex,
When you go into Service Mode and run the Quick Spin Test the machine Console Control Board will signal the Motor Controller to spin up the Drive Motor to 90 RPM indicated on the Console. The next step is 150 RPM as the test calls out on up to 850 RPM.
Some questions;
Have you been taking DC or UC unbalance errors?
You ran the Quick Spin Test with an empty wash basket correct and you have severe vibration?
Does the machine step thru all ranges up to 850 RPM successfully completing the Quick Spin test?
If the wash basket is empty and you are experiencing “”pretty severe vibration”” I feel this is not a Clutch Issue.
Dick, yes we have been getting DC error code. Ran the Quick Spin Test with an empty basket. Will not complete on a full load wash. Gets to 11 minutes and stops. On ‘open door-restart at same point’ tries to reposition the clothes and then times out at very slow RPM and displays DC again. Sorry to be so long in response, but I had to run an errand and didn’t know you’re availability.
Thanks.
I say it’s not the Clutch Pulley based on an empty wash basket Quick Spin Test or a Spin Only cycle. Put a wet wash load in the the wash basket and see if you throw DC or UC unbalance error with severe wash tub swings/wash tub banging around.
I would drop out the Clutch Pulley and inspect for a Tub Seal leak (rust present on the Clutch bearing assembly. If the Clutch can be cleaned up reassemble; see Sticky Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW starting at Post #6; Part 2; Clutch Pulley Removal
If you read the Service Notes from that Sticky Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW starting at Post 5 ; Part 1; DC or UC unbalance error codes in Spin Cycle what is causing this issue?
I explain why the Tumblers rotate at the start of the Spin Cycle and the possible Clutch maintenance that most of the time will clear the issue for extended service life…if not severly rusted up. I’m finding these machines are approaching or are at the point of service life where it is time for a Tub Seal replacement. If you dive into that see this post; FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
But let’s have some more feedback on your issue and clarify the questions about the Quick Spin Test that you ran.
It is always good to start a new thread for your issue but lets stay here for your response………Dick
— End quote
Dick, yes we have been getting DC error code. The machine will not complete a cycle. Stops at 11 minutes and gives code. Pause and open door and restart, the machine tries to start and then times out again. The Quick test was done with the machine empty. It did step thru all of the spins up to 85 (850). But it does give the severe vibrations empty.
Thanks
Understand,
Drop the Clutch Pulley out and see if it can be cleaned up if it can’t be cleaned up you need to replace. That should get you back in service. If there is severe rust you need to think about a Tub Seal replacement.
You can follow this post [COLOR=#800080]Maytag Neptune load unbalance[/COLOR] for Clutch Pulley clean up. Or the other forum with my Sticky notes.
If you need to replace the Clutch Pully I would not pay more than $80 + shipping. Google this p/n 25001169 for best price.…….Dick
— Begin quote from dh1200s;387912
Understand,
Drop the Clutch Pulley out and see if it can be cleaned up if it can’t be cleaned up you need to replace. That should get you back in service. If there is severe rust you need to think about a Tub Seal replacement.
You can follow this post [COLOR=#800080]Maytag Neptune load unbalance[/COLOR] for Clutch Pulley clean up. Or the other forum with my Sticky notes.
If you need to replace the Clutch Pully I would not pay more than $80 + shipping. Google this p/n 25001169 for best price.…….Dick
— End quote
Dropped the clutch out. No rust on the sleeve or the bearing itself. Bearing seemed to be very ‘dry’. Cleaned it with WD-40 and then put some grease in it. Did not have Slick 50. Maybe next time. Used high grade wheel bearing grease. Beginning to re-install now. Will pay attention to the 1/16-1/8 free-play. Felt it before I took it down. They gave us a lot of room didn’t they. I’ll post back and let you know how it worked out.
Thanks
— Begin quote from alexjazz;387960
Dropped the clutch out. No rust on the sleeve or the bearing itself. Bearing seemed to be very ‘dry’. Cleaned it with WD-40 and then put some grease in it. Did not have Slick 50. Maybe next time. Used high grade wheel bearing grease. Beginning to re-install now. Will pay attention to the 1/16-1/8 free-play. Felt it before I took it down. They gave us a lot of room didn’t they. I’ll post back and let you know how it worked out.
Thanks
— End quote
Dick, back together and put wet clothes that would not spin out back in the machine and put it thru quick spin test. Spun up, less vibration with clothes. Spun out and now I will re-wash these clothes thru the full cycle. When they are done I will report back. If we could see how much this tub moves around before we purchased, we might move on to something else. Thanks for your help.
— Begin quote from alexjazz;388007
Dick, back together and put wet clothes that would not spin out back in the machine and put it thru quick spin test. Spun up, less vibration with clothes. Spun out and now I will re-wash these clothes thru the full cycle. When they are done I will report back. If we could see how much this tub moves around before we purchased, we might move on to something else. Thanks for your help.
— End quote
OK Dick, load re-done with no problems. Thank you for your willingness to share your expertise with the rest of us. Your thorough explanations and your helpful hints save us a lot of time, as well as, a lot of money. I tried to find your email address on your profile but could not. Maybe there is a tip to navigating your profile.
Thanks again
Alex,
I’m at work right now so a quick response. I would never use any bearing grease on this type of bearing. Wash with WD-40 and I lube with Slick 50 0ne Lube.
Did your clutch use the Upper Bearing Ring?
I pulled my e-mail from Vcard. I will place it back in tomorrow.
Watch out for that Tub Seal.
Good luck and reach out if we can help with other issues.
Dick
— Begin quote from dh1200s;388218
Alex,
I’m at work right now so a quick response. I would never use any bearing grease on this type of bearing. Wash with WD-40 and I lube with Slick 50 0ne Lube.
Did your clutch use the Upper Bearing Ring?
I pulled my e-mail from Vcard. I will place it back in tomorrow.
Watch out for that Tub Seal.
Good luck and reach out if we can help woth other issues.
Dick
— End quote
Dick, after getting your reply I have been looking for the pictures that I saw on one of your post’s last night. Can’t find it so I will describe my clutch. I don’t think it carried the ‘upper bearing’. The clutch spring housing is black. From the top down there is an opaque plastic cover that has the four small screws. When you remove the opaque ‘dust cover’ (?) you find a hard plastic disc that holds the needle bearing and its sleeve with the two ‘teeth’ that fit into the notches on the shaft that comes out of the tub. That’s it. Like I said, there was not the piece that I was looking for, which from what I remember, was a smaller hard white plastic disc with two raised protrusions opposed and a bearing in the middle that I suppose would ride on the sleeve that I did have in mine. The main difficulty I had was getting the teeth to line up at the same time I was able to get the square end of the shaft to align with the clutch. I can see how a good bit of damage could be done if the clutch is not re-installed properly. Guess we might have some knashing of teeth. I’m still amazed at how much movement and gyrations take place while the machine is operating. I would have hated to be the one to prototype this unit. Don’t you know they scattered some parts along the way? And a lot of nerves too. Will the control panel tell the total number of cycles on this machine? If so can you help me find the page that gives the instructions or is it something that you remember? Again, thanks for all of your help.
Thanks again Dick… I ended up taking relay apart and cleaning it up and seems to be working fine now… Thank you…
Good deal most of the time corrision issues come in to play to the point where the lead on the magnetic reed relay will break off. Glad it worked out for you and thank you for the update…Dick
Hello Dick:
Well I am getting the od code again… Magnet is not working and I have it taken apart… Should I just buy a new relay? Is so any ideas in Michigan where I would get the best price…
Any help is appreciated… Thanks,
Steve
[SIZE=3]The generic p/n is 25001048 for the Left Hand Lid Lock. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Appliance parts pro p/n is [COLOR=#1455dc]AP4033944 and you can get it from this site. Just confirm the p/n with whoever you order from to make sure I’m giving you correct info.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Do you have an OHM meter? I would check that the Magnetic Reed relay is closing with a magnet on the LH lid lock and opening when the magnet is removed as I show with the picks below. The other test I would do is to verify at the Control Board +12VDC at Conn_P3 pin 4 and trace that down to the Left Hand Lid lock and back to the Control Board Conn_P3 pin 9 “Lid Closed Input”. The Control board is looking for +12VDC to be removed from Conn_P3 pin 9 at the end of the Wash Cycle or Spin Only Cycle when you open the washer lid. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]The last Pic is measuring "Lid is Locked" +12VDC signaling at the Control Board Conn_P3 pin 8 just to show a typical +12VDC signaling at the Control Board. This is how I would confirm the +12VDC signaling at Conn_P3 pins for trouble shooting the "OD" and "OP" error code. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]That is all I can suggest in troubleshooting to get closer to the fail point if you can do this additional troubleshooting. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]I guess the Magnetic Reed relay contacts can fail stuck closed. I would make sure that you have the option to return the Left Hand lid lock if the replacement does not fix the issue.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Dick[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Posting additional pic for Ohm meter connection measurements of the Left Han Lid Lock. I have the Ohm meter placed between the L.H . Lid Lock pins I have labeled P1 and P2.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The last pic is Conn_P3 on the Control board with some additional pinout info. [/SIZE]