So my 1 year and 3 month old maytag bravos will not spin. If you start a load of wash, it will lock the lid, start the normal process, fill with water, empty water, etc. However during the spin cycles it stays stationary, although it does make some humming noise when it should be spinning. It will also not agitate or do the sensing where is rotates the basket.
I don’t get any error code popping as it appears the washing machine thinks it is running fine.
I tried to remove basket to see if anything was stuck but I couldn’t figure out how to get the top lid off to remove the basket. I thought there were some clips but I can’t seem to figure them out.
Tilt the machine back to gain access to the drive components. There may be a sound absorber that has to be removed. Remove the belt guard and check the belt and that the nut holding the main drive pulley is tight. There should be a manual up inside the cabinet. It will tell you how to get into service mode to check for error codes and to troubleshoot the washer. If the belt and pulley nut are ok I can give you some further information. These washers are very problematic with a host of common problems.
There is a test procedure for it in the manual (tachometer verification) but these things have been known to pass the test yet still fail in actual operation. As I said, it is a very high failure item. If you buy parts from APP and they don’t fix the problem, you can return them. If it does pass the test, it may be that the motor fails to run. During the test, you rotate the basket by hand while in actual operation of course, the motor is driving the basket. If the motor doesn’t appear to rotate when it should, look for broken wires at the capacitor connection, and at wire tie-down points in the wire harness run from the motor and at the coil of wire that you see under there. Loose connections and broken wires are common problems. Look closely at the capacitor for cracks/splits/holes. Another common failure item. Hate to tell ya but this washer design is a piece of junk. It is the basic design for many different models sold under various names (Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Roper…etc.) Almost daily complaints about them on the various appliance forums. The design has only been out for 3 years.
Motor current does pass through the lid switch and you did get an error for that but usually, you will get the flashing lid lock lamp if it fails. You can test it with a multimeter.
So I tried a quick experiment, and had my wife hold up the washer while I turned on the spin cycle. I look off the sound cover and the belt between the motor and the basket.
When the washer began sensing mode, the actuator moved and then the motor pulley began to spin. Following this, the drain tried to pump and then nothing really happened during the spin cycle.
I tried the same experiment with the belt on, and nothing spun. It would appear that there is too much friction to move the basket.
So this experiment tells me that the motor is working and is getting signals. It also tells me that the actuator it at least powered.
My questions:
Would a broken actuator still move?
Is it possible there is too much friction somewhere, and if so where would one expect this to be? The basket it a little hard to turn, but it isn’t anywhere near frozen.
Regards,
-Jeff
P.S. I have also seen that this washer is a POS now that I have been looking around, but not that I own it, there isn’t much I can do besides buy a new one…and that is admitting defeat ;).
Yes, the actuator does three things. It shifts the splutch between agitate and spin positions. There is a switch in it that closes when the shifter is in the agitate position and opens in the spin position. This tells the control board what position it is in. There is also an optical sensor that fits up into a hole in the bottom of the transmission case that is used to determine if the basket is rotating and the control board determines rpm based on the signal from the sensor. So it’s certainly possible for the shifter motor that operates the splutch is working but the switch or sensor could be faulty. If the basket is really hard to rotate, there may be clothing caught between the tubs. You would have to take the top cover off and take the tub cover off to see between the tubs.
I’m gunna give it a shot and try a new shift actuator. I was testing the basket, and I think it is spinning fairly normally.
I did try the RPM test, and the machine is detecting the rotation of the basket. I was kinda hoping it would fail so I could be sure this was the issue, but I suppose it’s worth the shot. It is probably this or a control board, and I think this is the cheaper one to try first.
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I am having the same problem… same model after the same length of time. I have changed the actuator and the capacitor, but all I get when it tries to spin or agitate is the hum. My error code is F7 E1. I was able to test the resistance on the motor and they were slightly higher (approx 22 ohms), but on an old meter.
I am not sure if it the motor or the control board. Anything else I can test?
Did you ever get the Bravos repaired? If so, what was the problem?
— Begin quote from cokeclsc;852595
I am having the same problem… same model after the same length of time. I have changed the actuator and the capacitor, but all I get when it tries to spin or agitate is the hum. My error code is F7 E1. I was able to test the resistance on the motor and they were slightly higher (approx 22 ohms), but on an old meter.
I am not sure if it the motor or the control board. Anything else I can test?
— End quote
Did you ever get the Bravos repaired? If so, what was the problem?
