Maytag Dryer - Causing me to lose sleep...

This thing is driving me nutty…

I just bought this unit used (for my elderly Mom) - Wired it up… Plugged it in… Ran great for five minutes… Now will not start properly. If I press the start button 100 times, it might start once. I assumed the Start Switch was wonky - Checked it for continuity… and it tested fine. I just do not know where to begin on this thing. Any suggestions?

Sal

Still having no luck with this machine. Any Suggestions? Anyone?

If it ran perfectly fine for your mom you either bumped, shaken loose wiring or broke something in the transport…Check another plug or check your receptacle make sure the polarity is right also…Then tear down the unit and look at your wiring connections

I have checked all connections… Everything seems tight and proper… Continuity check on starterbutton… Door Switch sounds correct… Is there anything I can bypass or check on this machine? I tried manually spinning the drum - maybe a dead spot on the motor… and nothing.

Help…

Sal

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=MED5630TQ0

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Have you tried different cycle types re: auto and timed dry?
Might be Timer Switch 4 has a problem.

With the unit unplugged and timer set on a heat cycle and the door closed and the start button pushed , you should see about 2 ohms between L1 and Neutral on the line cord. Below is more info on this.

Unplug the unit and attach one meter lead to the L1 connector at the line cord and leave it there.
Set the timer to a run cycle mid scale.
Use your most sensitive meter scale usually 200 ohms. Also short the meter leads together before starting so you can see it thjere is a zero offset in the meter.
Now work your way back through the start circuit.
BK on the timer should be 0 ohms.
BU on the timer should be o ohms.
Looks like the start relay may have 2 BU wires. When the push to start is pushed they should both be 0 ohms.
All following measurements are with the start button pushed.
[COLOR="DarkGreen"]Both sides of the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms.
4M on the motor should be 0 ohms.
5M on the motor should be about 2 ohms.[/COLOR]
W on Timer Switch 4 should be about 2 ohms.
T on Timer switch 4 should be about 2 ohms.
BU at the door switch should be about 2 ohms.
W at the door switch should be about 2 ohms.
The Neutral at the plug should be about 2 ohms.
This has checked the entire start circuit.

You should not have to rip the unit open.
You just need access to the control panel.
If the reading before and after the green checks above are good then you know that the thermal fuse and motor check out.