Few weeks ago the element went out. No problem. Got a new element. Put it in. Everything works fine again. A week later, the dryer has trouble starting. Buzzes. Needs help getting started. I am able to get it going by physically turning the drum while pressing the start button. It will then run for about 15 minutes before shutting off. The motor is also sounding like it is straining.
I figure I need a new motor. I bought a refurbished one on the internet. That came today. I put it in, and reattach everything. When I turn the cycle selection to on (before pushing the start button) the element come on. When I push the start button there is just the buzzing noise. I took it apart again so there is no belt attached. Still just buzzing. Cannot figure out what I did wrong. Starting to think the problem might go back to the element replacement.
Any ideas of what to check? Pretty sure I replaced all the wires in their correct locations.
The capacitor on your motor was failing. If it was working properly before you replaced the motor (start wise) then you put the wires on the motor wrong.
The machine will not start if the belt switch was wired to the motor improperly. Check your work and try again.
Here are your parts.
I have to disagree with Appliance Spy. As far as I know this unit does not use a motor capacitor or a belt switch.
It sounds to me that the replacement motor has a problem with the centrifugal switch, probably activated all the time.
This switch is is supposed to activate when the motor gets close to operating speed. It has two sections.
One turns on the heater, this ensures that there is air flow before the heater comes on. So that would explain why you have heat when there is no motor rotation.
The other has two functions.
- It closes a circuit so that the motor keeps running after you release the start switch.
- It also switches out the motor’s start winding which would cause the motor to overheat if left in circuit. So if it is activated when the motor is at rest then you do not have a start winding in circuit so the motor does not start.
Probably the centrifugal mechanism on the motor is bad.
You may be able to see this if not unplug the unit and one of the heater wires from the switch and measure the switch. If it is 0 ohms (closed) the motor is no good.