I apologize up front, because this has probably been asked before, but is there anything else other than the suspension springs that would cause this drum to spin violently off center during the spin cycle. Have already tore down and rebuilt/cleaned almost the whole washer assembly as a maintenance aspect while I am troubleshooting this. Thanks in advance for your input.
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There can be a hairline crack or fracture that you cannot see in the support system. Run it with the front cover off and see if you can determine anything.
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Thanks, I’ll try it again and take a much closer look. Also, I have seen other posts talk about "white shavings" from the snubber ring, which I have none. Is there any relation to my problem with the snubber ring? I thought that this was just part of the braking assembly.
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Yes the snubber can be a problem, but from your description of violent shaking it is less likely. Check it out though.
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Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated!
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If you grab hold of the agitator and you can move the tub rather easily, you have a bad snubber.
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Thanks for the reply - as long as I’m going through everything, the cost of a part and a little time isn’t really an issue. Are there any things I need to pay special attention to as I replace the snubber ring? Special tools or "tricks?" It appears to be straightforward .
You will need two people to get the rear springs back on. One trick is to jam a bunch of thick,flat washers between the spring to stretch it.
[SIZE=3]Kind Sir/Madam: [/SIZE]If I have power to my Bosch ModelSHU8805UC/UC12dishwasher’s junction box, with secure black-to-black (power), secure white-to-white(neutral) and proper grounding, but the dishwasher is utterly functionless (nolights or operation) in response to depression of the power button or either of the threecycle buttons, should I not first check the on-off switch (AP2802323) forcontinuity? Can you direct me toa wiring diagram? Second, with no response to the on/off switch, the 3-program control module (APO2804377 is not a likely culprit,is it? And, third, is there anythingelse that I should be checking, before ordering the on/off switch (AP2802323) and/or the Control module, 3-program, Shu 88 (AP2804377)? DIY Lawyer.
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
It was the control module, 3-program, Shu 88 (AP2804377)–received and installed this afternoon. Thanks. DIY Lawyer
Gas oven will not reach temperature. Seems like it must be the ignitor. Might also be the thermostat because it will beep like temp was reached but clearly the goal was never met.
I have the multi-meter but not sure exactly where to place the probes within the interior of the oven to test these two components.
Do I turn it on and check these or do I do it with power off?
Any help appreciated. TIA
Is there an article that shows the thermostat and ignitor parts and where to test them? I see the Ohmmeter sticky but no real specifics on this. I must be missing it since everyone else seems to know where to check. Any links or advice?
Please? TIA
Hi.
Does the gas light up? If not, does the ignitors glow?
If the burner lights up you need to check the oven sensor
At 70F the resistance should be around 1080 ohms. Replace if big difference.
If both ignitors doesn’t glow and control board bipping as if the preheat is done - you most likely need to replace the control board
Unplug the unit while testing.
Simon.
The ignitor I think was not glowing bright enough. But I have nothing to compare it to so I need to see a proper ignitor glowing first.
It would take forever to come on with gas smell and then not ever heat up to temperature. Although the readout would beep as if it had gotten to 375 or 400 F. The food was not cooked so I know it had to be below 300 F for sure.
So maybe both are bad. could it be that a replaced ignitor will cause it to read temps properly again?
I don’t know where to place the probes etc. to test these components
I didn’t see anything about it on the "replace ignitor" video. Is it in the Ohmmeter thread?
Simon / APP Team said:
AP3969435At 70F the resistance should be around 1080 ohms. Replace if big difference.
Do I test this in the oven? Do I pull it out and test it?
Same with the ignitor. I have never seen this done
HI.
You need an amp meter to check the ignitor. The normal amps draw is around 3.25 - 3.5 amps.The ignitor should glow bright red almost white.
You probably should try to replace the bake ignitor
Simon.
Simon / APP Team said:
HI.You need an amp meter to check the ignitor. The normal amps draw is around 3.25 - 3.5 amps.The ignitor should glow bright red almost white.
You probably should try to replace the bake ignitorSimon.
Is an amp meter different than the digital multimeter? And how do I do that? With the oven plugged in and turned on? And then I touch the probes to it in action? Sorry but I really have no clue.
Should I search youtube for a video? What might it be called?
It does sound like the ignitor. Do you think the reaching temperature problem is maybe a distraction?
I have the multimeter so it seems like I should follow through on checking the part. But I did think about just switching the ignitor out and see if that cures it.
The clamp on amp meter is different from the regular multimeter.
I suggest you to replace the bake ignitor.
Simon.
Simon / APP Team said:
The clamp on amp meter is different from the regular multimeter.
I suggest you to replace the bake ignitor.Simon.
OK, sounds like a plan. Thanks, Simon
BTW do I use the multimeter to test the temp probe (if there is some kind of problem in the end) or is that the amp meter too? Or will I just replace it if there are still problems?
To check the sensor’s resistance you will use the multimeter.
Let’s go step by step.
Please post the results.
Simon.
This dryer is a three cycle dryer and only works when it is in the medium heat mod. I have replaced timer and resistor and nothing has changed. Somebody told me it could be heat sensor or thermostat , I need more advise before replacing any more parts.
Hmmm…things are a little complicated on this end.
The ignitor I got looks the same inside but there is no cage like housing around it. Do I reuse the one inside the oven? It doesn’t look like it. The video shows the new one with its own housing.
I will check and make sure this is the right part.
Taking off the old ignitor I ran into a problem though. I stripped the edges of the rear screw. The edges are a little worn down and the piece (I don’t know what you call these that are not phillips or flat ended) can get no grip and leverage.
Do I have to cut the screw or might there be a trick to loosen these troublesome little screws?
The part looks so similar but there is no little cage surrounding it. Is it the correct part??