All of a sudden, my washer will not spin because the load unbalance keeps making it reset. Small load or large about the same.
Will spin & unload water if no clothes are in it.
Any help out there?
— Begin quote from richappy;162054
Remove the front panel under the door and look for busted shocks.
— End quote
Hey richappy,
Thank you for your quick response. I will now try find/order the parts.
Sounds like that would be the exact answer.
I’ll let you know how it turns out if that’s ok.
Thanks again,
gowest455
[SIZE=3]The failing in Spin Cycle of the wash cycle (or a Spin Only cycle) with a dC or uC error LED display for the of the FAV6800A my machine type or an unbalance statement to the LCD display of your FAV9800A is caused by a very common Clutch Malfunction. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Do you hear/see the wash tub banging around at the start of a spin cycle? If so you have a classic clutch malfunction with the FAV9800A or FAV6800A the LED version of the machine which is my machine. Your TDS sensor is working as designed or the machine would shake itself apart if that failed with this Clutch Malfunction.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I’m an owner like you not a repair person but I know the FAV6800A/FAV9800A series very well. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Do you want to DIY the repair? You need basic mechanical skill sets to perform Clutch Maintenance or replacement. I would estimate you will drop $300 plus if you call in a repair service that is knowledgeable on the machine series and understand what is causing the unbalance error condition. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]A repair service will not clean up and re-lube the One-Way clutches/bearings in the Clutch Pulley assembly it’s just not cost effective for a repair service… but it is for the DIY’er. Also can you let us know what the first two digits of your serial number i.e. 10,11,12,13,…up to 17. That is your series number of your machine and may tell me if your machine series will use the upper One-Way roller clutches bearing ring. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]If you are the least bit handy you can fix the issue it’s just a tight work area. I have a full Clutch maintenance/Clutch replacement process write up. [/SIZE][SIZE=3]I can post that process on this site. Let me know what direction you wnat to go. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]This is an easy low cost fix if the One-Way Roller Clutches can be cleaned up. If they can’t I recommend a replacement clutch from this site [COLOR=#0000ff]AP4310552. I know so many of the FAV9800A/FAV6800A ($1K) machines end up trashed for a very easy cost effective repair. You will need the Service Manual fo the machine it’s on the web.[/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Forum Mod is OK to post link to the Service Manual for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A on this board?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Dick[/SIZE]
Trust me it’s not the front struts.
I should have searched this site here is a link for the manual from this site for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A. It sounds like you want to DIY.
Google this p/n for the SM ""16022808 Rev. 0""
From this post.
You need to drop the clutch pulley out of the machine. I think you will find something liks this plus rust on the One-Way roller Clutchs/bearing.
Last Pic shows clearly the front struts when you remove the front cover. Do Clutch mainenance or replacement if necessary and your FAV9800A will be and you will save big $$$.
Dick
Hello Dick,
Yes, tub bangs at start.
The first 2 digits of Serial # is 15 (whole SN is 15657132ga)
Do you know how to check the shocks to see if they are up to par? I know on car shocks you can tell good from bad very easily.
I did go to sevice manual and downloaded it. "Thanks.
[SIZE=3]And this quote from you:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]"If you are the least bit handy you can fix the issue it’s just a tight work area. I have a full Clutch maintenance/Clutch replacement process write up. I can post that process on this site. Let me know what direction you wnat to go. "[/SIZE]
Yes that would be great to have the Clutch maintenance process writeup.
I am totally knew to this webb site stuff, but it seems great if I can master it.
I am 70 years old but used to do a lot of this sort of cars/appliance tinkering - although my profession was Construction electrician.
Lastly, I am keeping some of my grandkids thru Christmas/New Years school break so am slow to respond and getting to work on it.
Thank You so much for the help.
Kenneth gowest4552
— Begin quote from dh1200s;162282
[SIZE=3]The failing in Spin Cycle of the wash cycle (or a Spin Only cycle) with a dC or uC error LED display for the of the FAV6800A my machine type or an unbalance statement to the LCD display of your FAV9800A is caused by a very common Clutch Malfunction. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Do you hear/see the wash tub banging around at the start of a spin cycle? If so you have a classic clutch malfunction with the FAV9800A or FAV6800A the LED version of the machine which is my machine. Your TDS sensor is working as designed or the machine would shake itself apart if that failed with this Clutch Malfunction.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I’m an owner like you not a repair person but I know the FAV6800A/FAV9800A series very well. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Do you want to DIY the repair? You need basic mechanical skill sets to perform Clutch Maintenance or replacement. I would estimate you will drop $300 plus if you call in a repair service that is knowledgeable on the machine series and understand what is causing the unbalance error condition. A repair service will not clean up and re-lube the One-Way clutches/bearings in the Clutch Pulley assembly it not cost effective but it is for the DIY’er. Also can you let us know what the first two digits of your serial number i.e. 10,11,12,13,…up to 17. That is your series number of your machine and may tell me if your machine series will use the upper One-Way roller clutches bearing ring. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]If you are the least bit handy you can fix the issue it’s just a tight work area. I have a full Clutch maintenance/Clutch replacement process write up. [/SIZE][SIZE=3]I can post that process on this site. Let me know what direction you wnat to go. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]This is an easy low cost fix if the One-Way Roller Clutches can be cleaned up. If they can’t I recommend a replacement clutch from this site [COLOR=#0000ff]AP4310552. I know so many of the FAV9800A/FAV6800A (1$K) machines end up trashed for a very easy cost effective repair. You will need the Service Manual fo the machine it’s on the web.[/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Forum Mod is OK to post link to the Service Manual for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A on this board?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Dick[/SIZE]
— End quote
One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.
Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.
The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.
Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.
The Control Board sees the TDS D.C. voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. In your case I guess the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition?”. Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day as my most recent purchase demonstrates.
Here are the pic’s wish I knew how to comment out the pics without individual postings. Can anybody help me with that? I’m a rookie.
Dick
Back to dh1200s from gowest4552
Dick, I followed your tread and advice and instructions to the "T" and every thing worked perfectly - just as you said.
NO STRUTS NEEDED
I FIXED IT FOR EXACTLY FREE Thanks to you.
Let me run through this.
I copied all mine, and your, treads/correspondance & pasted in " MY DOCUMENTS". Then I down loaded the PDF to "MY DOCUMENTS" from ‘Maytag’ (clicked on where you said) in the thread.
I printed out the sheets of YOUR reply’s.
I printed out page 46 and page 47 from Maytag PDF.
I read your advice over and over, then started to Disasemble the Washer at 8:00pm. Had it going on wash cycle at 10:05 pm. Plus showed my wife how 1’way rollers worked & goofed a bit in between.
I turned the COUPLER – CW Then CCW and it would rotate both directions (bad).
Then I gave slipped out the coupler and gave a quick shot of WD40 on the dried out bearing. Slipped back in the coupling a quik twist and it only went in one direction (good).
Got a paper towel cleaned off all WD40 from bearing and surrounding stuff.
Worked some high quality Red Wheel Bearing grease into the bearing. Reinserted the coupler --twist, twist --still worked 1 direction (good).
Gave a lite coat grease to other slightly rusted surfaces. Reinstalled as per you instructions. ALL WORKS GREAT AS OF NOW.
COST = $0.00 I’ve had the red grease since 2-12-2003 (I datemark everything) and I already had the WD40.
What a great Christmas present.
Thanx from Texas, as they say, You Da Man
Kenneth:D
— Begin quote from dh1200s;162489
One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.
Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.
The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.
Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.
The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. In your case I guess the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition?”. Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day as my most recent purchase demonstrates.
Here are the pic’s wish I knew how to comment out the pics without individual postings. Can anybody help me with that? I’m a rookie.
Dick
— End quote
— Begin quote from gowest4552;162276
Hey richappy,
Thank you for your quick response. I will now try find/order the parts.
Sounds like that would be the exact answer.
I’ll let you know how it turns out if that’s ok.
Thanks again,
gowest455
— End quote
Hey Again richappy,
I got a response from Member dh1200s, and Dick suggested,
IT IS NOT THE STRUTS
FIX THE 1-WAY ROLLER BEARING CLUTCH.
Since I could try the roller bearing without waiting for ordered parts, that’s what I did.
Cleaned up dried bearing grease with WD40 and regreased bearing per his instructions and the washer works perfectly.
Tear down to up & running a clothes load = 2HRs & 5 min.
The struts were standing up just fine.
Thanks anyway for advice.
gowest4552
Hi Kenneth…… Dick from Honey Brook, Pa. Nooooooooo you the man. Working with an owner like you with skill set’s makes this enjoyable and a rewarding experience.
I’m just passing along hands on info that I have gained over the past year since my FAV6800A started with the unbalance dc/uC errors.
The machine has some other issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock. I have that well documented watch out for OD, OP,FL and maybe a FO errors down the road I’m going to paste in some pic of the Left Hand Lid Lock for future info.
I have seen a few Control Board failures, Motor Controller Failures, TDS issue with corrosion issues at the 3 pin connector, a stuck pressure switch Low/Mid contacts not releasing with an empty wash tub. I troubleshoot at Control Board level and feel very relaxed on popping the hood on the machine. I have changed out the outer tub bearings, Tub Seal and trany O-ring on a Series 10 machine. The Series 12 and above that don’t use the Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring are a bit different. I haven’t done a Series 12 or above but worked with a owner on another forum and feel it is very doable.
I recommend to protect your Control Board/LCD with good surge protector as with any high value microprocessor controlled device.
I have three FAV6800A’s here. My original series 16 in the basement, A series 10 ($40) in the basement and the $.99 most recent internet purchase a series 17 machine which is now my everyday machine. That machine looked like it was just delivered from HD. No mold in the tub, no rust around the washer top and the One-Way Roller clutches were pristine. The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) rotated/slipped CCW and U know what that will do….big time dC/uC errors. Did what you did and back in service. I have many parts I got cheap all that work in my test bed FAV6800A.
If your LCD console ever fails I feel we could convert it to a LED flavor with no issues. I have not been able to acquire a used LCD console. I base that on the wiring diagrams for both flavors of the machine.
I have the schematic’s in in PDF format for the series, .PNG files are out on the WWW just hard to find. Let me know if you want them.
I’m an Electronics Technician by training with years of craft skills gained in the Telecom Ind. The machine is a hobby…… I know I got to get a life.
Have a good one……Dick
I tried to attach some Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issue pics. The process stalls I will try later. Take care.
Hello again Dick,
Good news & not so good news-that ends well. (So far)
My Maytag mde9800ayw Electric Dryer developed a loud clank clank. (not so good news) One of the TUMBLER BAFFLES had the screws loosening up and it sounded like you were drying a load of bricks.
The good news is, I used your Maytag lead to find a PDF for a dryer.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023110.pdf
I could not figure out how in the world to loosen up the top. On page 5-1 & 5-2 of the manual there’s the answer.
I never would have figured out how to get it apart if not for this site, and you and Maytags info.
No telling how much I would be paying someone to tighten up two screws.
If I can figure out how to edit my profile & get my email address on there, I want to be able to email / contact you and maybe others. This is great.
Thanks a million again,
Kenneth
gowest4552
— Begin quote from dh1200s;162917
Hi Kenneth…… Dick from Honey Brook, Pa. Nooooooooo you the man. Working with an owner like you with skill set’s makes this enjoyable and rewarding experience.
I’m just passing along hands on info that I have gained over the past year since my FAV6800A started with the unbalance dc/uC errors.
The machine has some other issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock. I have that well documented watch out for OD, OP,FL and maybe a FO errors down the road I’m going to paste in some pic of the Left Hand Lid Lock for future info.
I have seen a few Control Board failures, Motor Controller Failures, TDS issue with corrosion issues at the 3 pin connector, a stuck pressure switch Low/Mid contacts not releasing with an empty wash tub. I troubleshoot at Control Board level and feel very relaxed on popping the hood on the machine. I haven’t changed out the outer tub bearings but feel I can handle that.
I recommend to protect your Control Board/LCD with good surge protector as with any high value microprocessor controlled device.
I have three FAV6800A’s here. My original series 16 in the basement, A series 10 ($40) in the basement and the $.99 most recent internet purchase a series 17 machine which is now my everyday machine. That machine looked like it was just delivered from HD. No mold in the tub, no rust around the washer top and the One-Way Roller clutches were pristine. The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) rotated/slipped CCW and U know what that will do….big time dC/uC errors. Did what you did and back in service. I have many parts I got cheap all that work in my test bed FAV6800A.
If your LCD console ever fails I feel we could convert it to a LED flavor with no issues. I have not been able to acquire a used LCD console. I base that on the wiring diagrams for both flavors of the machine.
I have the schematic’s in in PDF format for the series, the are out on the WWW just hard to find. Let me know if you want them.
I’m an Electronics Technician by training with years of craft skills gained in the Telecom Ind. The machine is a hobby…… I know I got to get a life.
Have a good one……Dick
I tried to attach some Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issue pics. The process stalls I will try later. Take care.
— End quote
Hello Kenneth,
I helped an owner with that dryer different forum a while back same issue. Having some basic skill sets and the right attitude goes a long way if you want to save a $ and you have both. I’m no expert I feel I’m in the same profile as you. And I can’t stop fixing the machine if it aint broke. I specialize in trouble shooting from the Control Board in and out sensing and control.
The FAV6800A/FAV9800A takes a pretty bad rap by repair techs and owners. It definitely has design issues but what machine out there doesn’t?
I feel it comes down to some basic hands on some troubleshooting skill sets coupled with diag code block and error code info will get ya to a fix every time. My weak area is replacing outer tub bearings. I have never done that but I think both you and I can do it without the Tony Tool type of bearing puller.
There are times when having spare parts is a real advantage/must have to confirm the fail point such as Control Board, Motor Controller, TDS, Left Hand Lid Lock (I just clean the corrosion up on that bad boy). And I have not seen a Motor failure with our machine model in all the many hundreds of post I have worked on.
My e-mail is [COLOR=#0033cc]dh1200s@yahoo.com. I’ll respond back to ya.[/COLOR]
Take care and have a good Maytag day :)……Dick
My wife’s Maytag FAV6800AWW was doing the load unbalance thing. So, I found this site and your thread on how to fix the problem ! All I can say is "DITTOS" to gowest4552 Thank you.
George
Glad it worked out for you…Dick
[SIZE=3]After reading many Maytag Neptune postings, I’m convinced my washer has the same clutch problem. I get the constant unbalanced load errors/shutdown, but it runs ok empty.
I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to fix it. I’m relatively handy, have done lots of auto mechanics but not much appliance repair. Still, a $10 home fix sounds way better than a $300 tech visit that could be done with some effort and minimal know-how.
The photos are helpful, but are there schematics in PDF so I know what I’m getting into? I want to know if this is something that’s doable before I get the washer disassembled in the garage and get the wife mad at me!
Thanks so much! You can also email me at jdgavin@sbcglobal.net
[/SIZE]
— Begin quote from jdgavin;295838
[SIZE=3]After reading many Maytag Neptune postings, I’m convinced my washer has the same clutch problem. I get the constant unbalanced load errors/shutdown, but it runs ok empty.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to fix it. I’m relatively handy, have done lots of auto mechanics but not much appliance repair. Still, a $10 home fix sounds way better than a $300 tech visit that could be done with some effort and minimal know-how.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The photos are helpful, but are there schematics in PDF so I know what I’m getting into? I want to know if this is something that’s doable before I get the washer disassembled in the garage and get the wife mad at me![/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Thanks so much! You can also email me at jdgavin@sbcglobal.net[/SIZE]
— End quote
Jason,
I see that you have e-mailed me and I’m going to respond to you shortly.
Dick
Thanks so much, Dick. Your previous postings have helped immensely.
Yes, the clutch lube or replace is fairly straightforward. But now that I think I have the leak, the tub seal and O-ring replace are a bit more dicey. (I want to stop the leak and protect my investment in the $75 new clutch). I ordered the Tub Seal and O-ring (I think $16 and $3).
I guess I’ll have to also order the special wrench and fitting, which as you said are oddly cheaper separately than when paired together as the "kit".
I think the tub bearings in mine are okay, it spins by hand pretty freely and easily without much noise. I would like to plug the leak before it messes up the tub bearings, which I imagine would happen eventually.
I also finally found the service manual online, after much searching. It’s relatively helpful, but yeah, it does make assumptions that the reader has read and retained all of it. (For example, it will say, "Step 1: Remove tub" rather than "Step 1: Remove tub [see page X for the 12 things involved in doing so]". Could be clearer and less threadbare, but it does help some, at least.
Still, I couldn’t find much in there for replacing the Tub Seal / O-ring.
My Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW is a Series 12, by the way. I know there is an engineering difference between Series 10-11 and Series 12-17.
HELP…having this exact problem but the link to the service manual is now disable/page does not exist. I read on another post about popping off the tumbler covers, tumblers and checking to make sure theere isn’t something stuck in tumblers/coins…I got the pop off but so much gunk in the hole I cna’t tell what I/hubby need to remove tumblers. (We do animal rescue and have washed a LOT of animal hair covered beds/etc…so I fear what is inside…but we ddefinately cannot afford to replace the machine).
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]Hello [COLOR=#333333]Determined2DIY,[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]e-mail me my e-mail adr is in my profile and I will help you with the Service Manual.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]The Service manual has the procedure starting on page 37 for the tumbler removal.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]It’s not difficult to remove the tumblers. The Service Manual doesn’t call out the Torx driver size required for tumbler removal retaining screw. You will need a number 20 Torx driver to remove the screw for tumbler removal.[/SIZE]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]Your viewing the correct thread to correct unbalance issues in spin cycle. There could be issues leading up to this caused by a leaky tub seal. You will know more once you dive in and remove the Clutch Pulley and view the condition the One-Way Roller clutch bearings in the Clutch pulley. I hope you can just get away with the clean up and lube process described in this post. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]What are the first two digits of you machines Serial Number. That is located on the back console panel the rear right upper side as you face the machine.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]If you need help stay on this post and we will work the issue.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=4]I own the machine and have a few in the family I’m comfortable with any repair from troubleshooting Control Board issues to replacing Outer Tub bearings. No expert just some hands on experience……Dick [/SIZE][/FONT]
Hi Dick!!
Can’t tell you how nice it is to find someone HELPFUL and KNOWLEDGABLE!! I can’t find your email, the profile says no contact info available. Can I give you mine here? petfriendsgc@aOL.COM