My GE JE2160SF Microwave is working normal other than the fact that it does not heat up. The display panel works fine. Any ideas please. Its my first time using a forum too.
The in line fuse is ok obviously so the low voltage stuff is ok. I would check the limit on the magnetron for continuity also the cavity limit and the mag itself. Any of these open and no heat. The mag ain’t shorted or otherwise the barrel fuse would be blown and the low voltage stuff would not work so you are down to the cap or the diode. Since you gotta dig the cap and diode out replace em both is what I say. IF all the other stuff I mentioned is kosher that is. Here is a page that splains it a bit better with a cupla manuals fer ye to look at if you wish:
Alex, look here http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/dataselect.html and read about safety precautions and discharging HV capacitor. Your wiring diagram is probably under the housing or outside cover. unplug the over and remove the cover.
You can test the diode with a fairly fresh 9 volt battery and a digital dc volt meter or multimeter. Most of these little meters dont care if you put the black or red lead on battery plus terminal. They will just show a negative voltage when connected backwards. Set scale to measure at least 10 volts DC. You only need to lift one end of the diode from the microwave , but removing it is ok too.
Connect one end of the diode to one of the battery terminals and the other end of the diode to one of the meter leads. Then connect the other meter lead to the other battery terminal. The meter should read about zero volts or about 4 to 6 volts. Reverse the diode connections. Your reading should reverse. That zero volts probably wont be zero but might be a few millivolts. In other words you should see about zero volts one way and 4 to 6 volts when you reverse the diode connections. The 4 to 6 volt reading may be -4 to -6 volts. If you are reading a negative voltage just swap the meter leads. A bad diode will give the same meter reading when you swap the diode connection. If it is burned open you will read zero volts or if shorted you will read about 9.5 volts or whatever the battery terminal voltage is.
Hi there, well, like so many we had this crazy idea that a self cleaning wall oven (30") would self clean withoit problems. Wish I would have read here first. Seems I have the same problem as so many - during self clean the oven shut down and door remains locked. Based on reading it looks like it could be one of two thermal devices ?- one is just under the control panel (we were cleaning the top oven) and the other in the rear and would require full removal (not easy in my application) can anyone tell me which of the two I need to replace? it shut off about 2 hours into top oven clean and just went dead - it was very hot. Thanks
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=KEBC207KSS
By the sound of it the ovens are totally dead including the control panel.
I do not think that it is either thermal cut-off if this is the case.
As far as I know they only kill power to the elements.
Although it does not show anything in the wiring diagram I would check the wires going to the control panel. They may have added a fuse into one of theses wires. Pay special attention to the wires from the power transformer.
Have you tried flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Could be you lost the half of the line that runs the control board.
It is not uncommon to loose haf the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If you cannot find an in-line fuse then I would check the primary and secondary windings in the power transformer. Transformers usually have an internal thermal fuse.
If it is a blown fuse I would also replace the oven sensor, just to be safe.
Thank you sir. I was able to find the in line thermal fuse (behind the control panel) I did a temporary bypass and it turned the panel back on. So it looks like I need to replace that inline fuse - in searching here I see a part that looks identical #AP3777386 - can you confirm thats correct for my Kitchenaid KEBC207KSS5 model? (I see that more than
Sorry I do not work for AppliancePartsPros.
They probably have access to more parts data than I do.
If it looks the same then I would say it is the correct part.
Perhaps the parts people can confirm it for you.