This washer has been repaired before with the R11 Q6 upgrade and a new wax motor with the black pintel. Now it is back to not doing the max extract high speed spin and the door lock light isn’t lighting.
I have switched the two microswitches out with each other. I have jumped the door lock spin switch wires. When those are jumped it goes into high speed spin like it should.
I’ve ran through the test sequence lists as follows:
Does the door locked light illuminate NO
Restart does the wax motor extend NO
The Wax motor had somewhere around 1400OHMS I believe or 1600 I didn’t write that value down. There is no 120VAC across the Wax motor when powered on and in spin cycle. I checked continuity between the wax motor and board P7(4)/BR14. My tested signaled there was continuity. Although wouldn’t you want it to tone showing that there isn’t a short in the wire from the board to the motor? The paperwork states it needs a new control board though.
Control board checks for voltage are as follows: (All are said to be 24VDC)
P3-1(RD23) to P5 =26.6VDC
P3-7(YL36) to P5 = 0VDC
P2-4(OR40) to P5 = 26.6VDC
P2-3(YL20) to P5 = 26.6VDC
I have also tested for continuity across the pins of the microswitches when the tab is pushed in and my tester alarms. So they both have continuity and a complete circuit when the pin is pressed in.
To test the Wax motor VAC I have used many different locations for my neutral location. Including the white 13 on the wax motor itself the white 13 on the door light and the orange 12 on the door light as well the neutral port on the control board itself. No where did it show a change on my meter. which was just a 1. So something isn’t powering the wax motor to make the wax motor extend and activate the two microswitches.
I’m sure I’m missing tests here. These are what I could find by digging around.
No discolorations, leaking/seeping, bloated resistors. All contacts on back appear solid and no burn marks.
Just rechecked 1564 on the resistance
I could spend forever pulling it up again if needed but I took various checks from all over just copying them and pasting them in notepad then printing them out and going up the street to check my neighbors washer. Off had I have no idea where I found the checks. It may have been burried deep in ************************** or somewhere else.
I no longer have the pdf file for the service manual. But the section I have printed is the trouble shooting section copyright 1998 maytag corp Section 3 3-13. which shows the wheel for the timer. Then various trouble scenarios then the next section is the well basically a flow chart to find the problem. Which the sections I have are Washer will not spin then Maximum Spin Speed is not Reached. In my case the later refers to the first listed scenario. so 3-9 refers to 3-6.
Then is the component Exploded view. Although this sheet is copyright 2000 So my guess is I printed pages from a couple maytag sheets and stapled them together.
That’s what the Service manual says: — Begin quote from ____
…The purpose of the door lock mechanism is to secure the door during the spin cycle. When the door is shut, the wire loop on the door engages the rotating gear in the door lock mechanism. When the proper water level is reached and the pressure switch is satisfied, 120 VAC is applied to the wax motor…
— End quote
You may want to verify proper operation of the pressure switch by checking it’s terminals for continuity. If there is nothing wrong, check for 120 VAC at the wax motor terminals while the washer is in spin mode. If the voltage reading is incorrect, replace the control board.
Wow never got an email stating that a reply was made to this thread. I was hopping in to update with some more tests I ran:
These VDC readings are taken with the Black #1 on the Line Relay being used as the common lead for voltage checks. #1 to P3 pin 1 Should read 24VDC =26.6 #1 to P3 pin 7 Should read 24VDC = 00.1 #1 to P2 pin 4 Should read 24VDC = 26.6
P3 pin 1 is 24VDC out to the components (no DC volts, bad control board)
P3 pin 7 is 24VDC back from the spin enable switch(when the door is locked)
P2 pin 4 is VDC back from the tub off balance switches (any one switch will break the circuit)
#1 to P2 pin 3 Should read 24VDC =26.6 #1 to P2 pin 1 Should read 24vdc = 0 (I assume it was 0 because it wasn’t the end of cycle)
These are return VDC from the option switch.
Yellow is the max extract selection and purple is the end of cycle buzzer.
#1 to P4 pin 3 Should read 24VDC = 26.7 #1 to P4 pin 1 Should read 24VDC =0
The VDC should fluctuate and increase to 24VDC as the motor RPM’s increase.
Blue is out to motor control board and yellow is the power back to the control board. Red is tach circuit back to the control, you will have irratic readings until the motor rpm is consistant.
VAC checks using P5 as common
P5 to Gray wire on line relay Should read 120VAC =123.5
P5 to P1 pin 1 Should read 120VAC =69.1
P5 to blue #32 wire Should read 120VAC =34.1
P5 to Gray #33 Should read 120VAC =34.1
Gray is power into the control board from the door switch and you should have VAC whenever the door is closed (does not have to be locked) The P1 pin 1 purple wire at the control board is the water level switch return path no voltage would indicate a bad water level (pressure switch) and the washer won’t spin
No VAC on the gray or blue wire at the switch would indicate a bad timer