I have a Maytag Neptune MAH5500AWW Front Load Washer. A couple years ago I replaced the R11 & Q??, and Wax Motor (with black plunger) to fix a problem in which the spin cycle did not fully run and left the clothes wet. The washer worked without fail until last week. The current problem I am experiencing is that the washer runs through the entire wash cycle, including spin, however, the "on" light and "door lock" light stay on. Door stays locked and the washer stays in a state in which the drum sounds like it spins 1/2 turn every 15 seconds. It never turns off.
I don’t see any obvious burns on the circuit board.
As a workaround, I have pulled the green "weedeater" cable to unlock the door. This opens the door and turns off both lights. The wash and spin cycles are working fine as I’ve used this method to wash clothes until I can fix the problem.
Any help you can provide with solving this problem would be greatly appreciated.
There are a couple of issues that can cause the wax motor to stay energized after replacing R11 resistor and Q6 triac.
The first cause could be that one of the R11 leads is no longer connected to the Q6 pins #1 and #2. If either lead of R11 becomes disconnected the wax motor will stay energized. If you have an ohmmeter, you can verify that each lead does in fact connect to either pin #1 or pin #2 of the Q6. Note:[SIZE=3] pin 1 on the Q6 triac is looking at the flat side the very left pin. Pin 2 is center pin and pin three is the far right pin when looking at the flat side. If you flip board over keep in mind the Q6 orientation.[/SIZE]
After verifying that the R11 leads are in fact connected… The other cause could be that the Q2 and Q7 transistors need replaced. It is possible these took a ‘hit’ when the first R11 burnt because AC voltage can be backfed when the Q6 triac shorted out. There is a STAGE 2 kit at the Neptune Help order form where you get the Q2 and Q7 replacements.
Let me know what you find…
Jeff
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I have a Maytag Neptune MAH5500AWW Front Load Washer. A couple years ago I replaced the R11 & Q??, and Wax Motor (with black plunger) to fix a problem in which the spin cycle did not fully run and left the clothes wet. The washer worked without fail until last week. The current problem I am experiencing is that the washer runs through the entire wash cycle, including spin, however, the "on" light and "door lock" light stay on. Door stays locked and the washer stays in a state in which the drum sounds like it spins 1/2 turn every 15 seconds. It never turns off.
I don’t see any obvious burns on the circuit board.
As a workaround, I have pulled the green "weedeater" cable to unlock the door. This opens the door and turns off both lights. The wash and spin cycles are working fine as I’ve used this method to wash clothes until I can fix the problem.
Any help you can provide with solving this problem would be greatly appreciated.
The leads from R11 to Q6 are ok (i.e. continuity between 1 lead on R11 to pin 1 on Q6 and continuity between the other lead on R11 to pin 2 on Q6).
One additional thought on the problem before I go buy a stage 2 repair kit…
I’m wondering if this has more to do with "turning off" after the cycle is complete rather than the door. The reason is that when it is in the continuous 1/2 turn state as described previously it will turn off when I hit the on/off button, then the door will unlock about 1 minute later.
Does this change your recommendation?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Tom.
The leads from R11 to Q6 are ok (i.e. continuity between 1 lead on R11 to pin 1 on Q6 and continuity between the other lead on R11 to pin 2 on Q6).
One additional thought on the problem before I go buy a stage 2 repair kit…
I’m wondering if this has more to do with "turning off" after the cycle is complete rather than the door. The reason is that when it is in the continuous 1/2 turn state as described previously it will turn off when I hit the on/off button, then the door will unlock about 1 minute later.
Does this change your recommendation?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Tom.
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Tom,
If the door stays locked after the cycle that will cause the tub to tumble back and forth until you press the stop button. So, with the info given I would recommend trying the STAGE 2 kit.
Sometimes electronic components fail down the road after they were exposed to out of tolerance conditions. ie. after the Q6 triac shorted it could have backfed AC voltage and damaged the 2 driver transistors and now one of them (or both) have decided to go home to silicon heaven.
I replaced Q2 & Q7 and everything seems to be working fine now.
Comment on stage 2 repair kit - there were a total of 5 parts in the delivery so I had to make some guesses about which to install. Apparently I guessed correctly, but my experience could have been helped by more clear instruction on how to identify each part.
Thanks much for your help. The Neptune is on its third life now. How many do they get…?
I replaced Q2 & Q7 and everything seems to be working fine now.
Comment on stage 2 repair kit - there were a total of 5 parts in the delivery so I had to make some guesses about which to install. Apparently I guessed correctly, but my experience could have been helped by more clear instruction on how to identify each part.
Thanks much for your help. The Neptune is on its third life now. How many do they get…?
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Hello, I see that I sent your email on Tuesday 4-27-10 @ 7:07 am. The STAGE 2 intructions were attached as a PDF? Did you not get this email? Jeff