My ice maker was freezing up and the tray was pealing. I replaced the ice maker style 2 with a new one. The led light never came on. I reset the c/b to remove power and the led flashes four times stops, flashes four times and then the led goes out and doesn’t come back on. I did this with the optic flapper open and closed but the ice maker still doesn’t work. Could it be the optics and how can I tell what it wrong.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Hi.
Please use the attached article for diagnostics.
Simon.
Jcarlton said:
My ice maker was freezing up and the tray was pealing. I replaced the ice maker style 2 with a new one. The led light never came on. I reset the c/b to remove power and the led flashes four times stops, flashes four times and then the led goes out and doesn’t come back on. I did this with the optic flapper open and closed but the ice maker still doesn’t work. Could it be the optics and how can I tell what it wrong.Thanks in advance for any help!
J, The ice maker you installed was it
AP3182733
This would be the correct ice maker, based on the model number you supplied.
When you opened the freezer door, the reciever LED should have flashed two pulses and paused then repeated the flashes, until you pressed in on the emitter flapper, then the receiver LED should have come on and stayed on, solid. The four pulses and then no LED display would indicate an issue in the I/R emitter control system. You’ll need to replace the board kit
AP3137510
Thank you, that is what I thought.
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Thank you, that is what I thought.
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You’re Welcome. Once you’re up and running, let us know how things went. It’ll help others who use or review the Repair Forum. Thanks
Well got the emitter controller and replaced it. Now that works like it should but still no ice. No water coming out even though it comes out the door and worked with the old Ice maker. The motor doesn’t even move. So brand new ice marker and emitter and still no ice. The last ice maker worked until it kept freezing the ice in the tray and the tray was peeled. I guess I should have just replaced the tray and heater. If I would have come to this site earlier.
I guess I will keep looking for answers.
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Well got the emitter controller and replaced it. Now that works like it should but still no ice. No water coming out even though it comes out the door and worked with the old Ice maker. The motor doesn’t even move. So brand new ice marker and emitter and still no ice. The last ice maker worked until it kept freezing the ice in the tray and the tray was peeled. I guess I should have just replaced the tray and heater. If I would have come to this site earlier.
I guess I will keep looking for answers.
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J, You’ll need to be very careful, these checks will be live 120 VAC tests
You’ll need a metal paper clip, and a 3 or 4 inch piece of insulated 14 gauge wire and a meter or test light.
Remove power to the refrigerator. remove the receiver board(right side of freezer). Remove the ice maker control front cover, and disconnect the wires from the ice maker (green) solenoid on the water valve.
Tape the freezer door light switch closed, and attach the meter leads to the solenoid wires.
On the receiver board wire harness connector, insert the paper clip across pin #3 (blk) and pin #4 (blk/wht) (you may want to tape the paper clip so it doesn’t short to you or the refrigerator).
Reapply power to the refrigerator. with the 14 gauge wire(with 3/4 in. insulation removed from both ends, insert one end of wire into the "H" opening, and the other end into the "T" opening of the front case. You’ll need to hold the wire there until the rake arm rotates to the 10 o’clock position, then remove it.
When the rake arm reaches the 12 to 1 0’clock position, the fill circuit should activate, and the meter should show 120 VAC across the wires at the solenoid. If you have the voltage, you have a faulty fill valve. No voltage would indicate a wiring issue or faulty ice maker fill circuit.
Be very careful, and make sure all your test connections are proper.
Thanks. I thawed the black water line and it looks like the arm moved a little but then stopped where it was when I installed it. I guess I have a lot of more work to do.
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Thanks. I thawed the black water line and it looks like the arm moved a little but then stopped where it was when I installed it. I guess I have a lot of more work to do.
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J, Maybe not, Check your freezer temperature, the average air temperature should be 5 to 7 dgrs.F/refrigerator 40 to 42 dgrs.F…, check the dispenser flapper and both door seals for proper seating and seal. That should take care of the fill tube freezing. Allow the ice maker to run a few hours( 7 or 8) then check the bin for ice cubes.
Well I haven’t had a chance to run the test yet but I did catch the arms moving full cycle. Just no water. The arms stop at the 10 o’clock position when the water should be coming in. I did thaw the black fill tube but still no water. I think when I can get the refrigerator out of the built in hole I will disconnect the water line and try and blow air through it. If the line is clear I think I will replace the fill valve. Since the ice maker is new and the emitters are new that the fill valve may be the culprit.
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Well I haven’t had a chance to run the test yet but I did catch the arms moving full cycle. Just no water. The arms stop at the 10 o’clock position when the water should be coming in. I did thaw the black fill tube but still no water. I think when I can get the refrigerator out of the built in hole I will disconnect the water line and try and blow air through it. If the line is clear I think I will replace the fill valve. Since the ice maker is new and the emitters are new that the fill valve may be the culprit.
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J, You’re on target. Check the fill tube from end to end, if all’s OK replace the water inlet valve
[part]AP5263471[/part]
Then re run the test.
Once again thanks. You have been extremely helpful!
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Once again thanks. You have been extremely helpful!
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You’re Welcome !!