I have replaced the transmission on the advice of a Sears repairman, still doesn’t spin only hum from motor. The basket seamed real tight, I bought and replaced the basket drive, still only hums. I found this forum and make adjustments to the brake lining, performed the manual test and it seamed to turn a lot easier than before but when I put it all back together it still only hums. It doesn’t seam like it is trying to turn at all. I have even reached down inside the tub to try and help get it going but it is tight, almost like frozen. I must have something wrong but cannot figure out what else to look at. Any ideas?
DaveD69
Check the model number, doesn’t come up. Does it fill and agitate ok?
Eric
fairbank56 said:
Check the model number, doesn’t come up. Does it fill and agitate ok?Eric
110.29882890 model
I’ve been working on this on and off for over two weeks, first time over 6 weeks ago it had this problem and I took off the inner tub to check the block which was ok and put it all back together and it worked for about two weeks. I have not tried the fill and agitate cycles as I don’t want to have to deal with all the water. Am I making a mistake not trying that? Thanks for your reply
So far I have replaced the pump,coupler,tub block,complete gear case with new clutch and basket drive with new brakes. I’m wondering if the capacitor could be bad, I pulled it and don’t believe it had a charge in it, tested it with A cap meter and got a reading of .175? Could that be it.
Yes, it certainly could be. Set the motor on the floor, still plugged in and try it. If it just hums, spin the shaft by hand and it should start. If it does, problem could be motor switch or capacitor but based on your capacitor test, it’s bad. Cap should be 324-389 microfarads
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-capacitor-8572720-ap3861916.html
Eric
fairbank56 said:
Yes, it certainly could be. Set the motor on the floor, still plugged in and try it. If it just hums, spin the shaft by hand and it should start. If it does, problem could be motor switch or capacitor but based on your capacitor test, it’s bad.Eric
I will try that thanks, that should narrow it down, is the start switch that red plastic piece that the wire harness hooks over.?
Yes, you can open it up to examine and clean the contacts if necessary. Can you provide a photo of your wiring diagram? Can’t seem to find it. Should be inside of control panel.
Eric
fairbank56 said:
Yes, you can open it up to examine and clean the contacts if necessary. Can you provide a photo of your wiring diagram? Can’t seem to find it. Should be inside of control panel.Eric
Motor started and ran on its own, I let it run for about 2 minutes.
Still could be capacitor. It takes a lot more torque to start the motor when it’s driving the gearcase. The capacitor gives it the extra torque for starting. You should be able to rotate the gearcase input shaft by hand or using a drill. CW for spin, CCW for agitate. Take half the motor coupler off the motor shaft, put a bolt through it and nut and chuck the bolt into the drill.
Eric
I am able to rotate it by hand but it does take some effort but there is no scraping brake noise as before. Is using a drill a better method to test this? By the way after testing the motor to the side with success and reinstalling it…HUMMMmMmsssss
Yes, the drill method is better as you can’t rotate it very fast by hand.
DaveD69 said:
I am able to rotate it by hand but it does take some effort but there is no scraping brake noise as before. Is using a drill a better method to test this? By the way after testing the motor to the side with success and reinstalling it…HUMMMmMmsssss
We’ll I replaced the capacitor and it did not have the result I was hoping for. I pulled the pump and motor and attached my drill to the motor coupler and the agitator and basket all spinned properly. Should my next endeavor be to replace the motor start switch? The contacts look fairly well burned up and almost gone. Would the motor still run properly out of the washer as it did if this switch is defective.
I cleaned out the switch and contacts as best I could and installed the motor back on the washer but left off the pump. When I turned it on it started to barely move ( that’s an improvement) and then started to hum again.
I noticed in the switch that the contacts are made up on the motor wire ends, does that mean I need to replace the motor and not just the switch?
If the switch is faulty, you only need to replace it, not the whole motor. You just unplug the wires from the switch and plug into the new one. Really need to take some voltage measurements at the motor when it is just humming. The problem could be the motor switch, speed select switch at the control panel or the motor. I can’t find the wiring diagram for you washer, can you provide a clear photo of it? It should be behind the control panel. This washer has a 3 speed motor whose speed is selected by the speed select switch, probably labeled fabric selector or something like that. Here is the part number for the motor switch if you want to replace it.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-motor-start-switch-8529896-ap3125984.html
Eric
Here’s the wiring diagram, after your last post I tried selecting different speed selections but it had no effect. I really appreciate your expertise. I rebuilt the switch using another one I had but that did not make any difference except it seems like the transmission sounds like it is trying to change gears so it must be getting a better connection with the new contacts on the switch.
Check the connections at the motor, especially the white wire and wht/blk wire looking for burnt/corroded terminals. Also check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch. Seems like your getting a voltage drop due to a bad connection or contact in timer, speed switch or motor connectors. With speed switch set for hi/hi, check the voltage across the motor connector blue and white/black wires, should be 120vac when in spin mode. Need to check agitation. You can disconnect the wires and jump out the violet and tan wires on the pressure switch to avoid filling the washer.
Eric
— Begin quote from fairbank56;831730
Check the connections at the motor, especially the white wire and wht/blk wire looking for burnt/corroded terminals. Also check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch. Seems like your getting a voltage drop due to a bad connection or contact in timer, speed switch or motor connectors. With speed switch set for hi/hi, check the voltage across the motor connector blue and white/black wires, should be 120vac when in spin mode. Need to check agitation. You can disconnect the wires and jump out the violet and tan wires on the pressure switch to avoid filling the washer.
Eric
— End quote
WILL Do, thanks.
Dave
Eric, I checked the connections, All look ok. I checked them all real good yesterday when I was changing out Motor Start Switch. There are no corroded or burnt wires anywhere on the motor nor does it have a burnt smell.
Now as far as the voltage testing: Voltage was consistent on both the spin cycle and the agitate cycle ( HUMS ON BOTH ) voltage was 105-106 volts.
Outlet Voltage 123 V.
My wife also has told me that the Slow/delicate speed has not worked for some time.
Does this indicate that the speed control switch is out? Can I rule out the motor yet? Maybe I should buy both and return what I don’t need. Waiting on your expertise. thanks again.
Dave
You can bypass the speed switch in spin mode by disconnecting and jumping the orange/blue wire to the blue wire. Jumper must be 16 gauge wire and a good tight connection as it carries full motor current. If that doesn’t work, I would try replacing the motor.
Eric
Tried the switch jump,Still hums. I’ll try the motor replace.
thanks, I’ll keep you posted on outcome, probably will be weekend before im done…have to work.
DAVE
Also check for 120vac across the red and yellow wires at motor connector when motor is humming. This is power to the start winding.
Eric