I have a model 44XL. I followed some of the posts answers you supplied in trying to trouble shoot. The Oven does not work, but the Broiler does. And all the stove top burners work. The igniter for the oven bake doesn’t glow at all. I hear the clicking at the knob. I checked amps at the Ignitor - NO current. Checked voltage at the gas valve load side to the ignitor. It reads 7. 2V before turning the knob on. Reads 8.8V after turning the knob. It should read 120V? I will have to look again but I believe the line side entering the gas valve does the same? Not sure on that. I will check the resistance reading thru the ignitor but I do not think that is it. I think it’s probably line voltage into the valve is off. Is there a control board or is it thru the knob that the voltage is supplied? What should I suspect is the problem?
jmrec100 said:
…Checked voltage at the gas valve load side to the ignitor. It reads 7. 2V before turning the knob on. Reads 8.8V after turning the knob…
How did you do it? What is the complete model number of the range?
Gene.
Most likely the problem is a bad igniter. You had to disconnect or cut off the igniter wires and measure the voltage between these wires. The model number is probably behind the bottom drawer.
Gene.
As far as I remember there suppose to be a plug on the left side panel where the igniter harness plugs in. If there is one then you have to unplug the igniter harness there and measure the voltage at this plug. Otherwise if you can post a pictures of all these wires and connections it might help.
Double check the model number you posted. "5" between "A" & "W" seams to be wrong.
Gene.
Could be an "S" I suppose. Have to look later.
I measured right at the valve terminals. Should read the same. But the resitance in the Igniter, measured with it unplugged, measured zero. Suggests a short? I will replace the igniter to start due to the ohm reading .
Keep us posted.
Gene.
Click on the "Quick Reply" button as you would normally do to create a post. Then click on the "Go Advanced" button right below the reply box. The Advanced menu has an "Attachment" button that can be used to attach and post a picture.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info on the advanced function.
I received the new igniter today. Before installing it, I measured the ohm/resistance. It measured 135 ohms. The old one measured zero ohms so I know the one I replaced was no good. Is 135 ohms good?
Anyway, I installed the new one. Put all the sheet metal back on. I did it the hard way when getting to the igniter and removed all the lower sheet metal. Didn’t realize I just had to remove the top lower panel. Oh well, had fun. I turned on the oven, and waited for that wonderful glow. One minute,… then 2 minutes. No glow.
So now it means I am not getting voltage to the gas valve for sure? What do I check next?
I opened up the top control panel and looked at the Board. Didn’t see any real tell tale signs of being burned? Could one of the relays be bad. What do I check on the baord for oven?
Spliced the wires into the same connections as the old igniter. Only 2 wires and the ends each have different connector type. Did all that. I checked the continuity after I installed it to be sure I did not damage it. I was careful. Same 135 ohms when I tested it straight from the box I received it in. I tried the oven, waited and nothing. Removed the wires and checked continuity again in place. Same 135 ohms. I will connect up an ammeter in line to the igniter again and check for amperage. I think maybe in the oven control PCB there may be a problem. I will look at the PC Board closer this weekend and see if I can trace voltage output. May even be in the knob control? It is just a potentiometer/resistor? I doubt its there because I would expect it to work at some settings and not at others. And the broil to not work at all if the oven knob was bad. Seems my options are the PC Board or the gas valve. I noticed there were relays on the PCB. Maybe a bad relay?
I again measured voltage at the two lower connections on the gas valve. Read same 7.7 volts before turning on the oven. Read 8.X volts after the knob was turned on. I tried several positions (oven knob) and same voltage. No change. Turn to off, and voltage drops to 7.X volts.
Is there a transformer or something on the PCB or somewhere else? I thought it was straight 120 volts to the gas valve?
Disconnect the igniter wires and measure the voltage across these wires wile the control calls for Bake. Post the results.
Gene.
I did that on oven bake setting. Same result. I should have clarified it. I disconnected at the igniter, hooked up my meter to these wires from the oven leading to these igniter wires to measure voltage. Same result
Do I check it on broil too? I thought it was a different setup for broil?
Disconnect the wires from the terminals on the Bake part of the gas valve and check for continuity across these terminals. Post the results.
Gene.
The bake part. Let me be sure what that is. There are 4 terminals on the gas valve. There are the 2 top terminals , one has the blue wire and the other is the white. The white I assume is a neutral because it also is connected to the lower terminal. Then the one lead coming off the bottom connects to one lead of the ignitor. I assume that the top two wires connect across a coil in the gas valve that allows voltage/current to pass to the igniter and open the gas valve to flow gas.? Are you asking me to check the resistance in the lower 2 terminals or across the top two wires (coil)? I assume that the coil would energize and make a complete circuit thru to the ignitor.
I looked at the gas valve parts on this site. I see two LARGE copper terminals. I assume this is the 120v in. Then it makes sense that the other 4 terminals , two on top to Broil, and two on the bottom to the bake. So I check continuity to the lower terminals. If I find very high (?), then probably a bad valve?
Can I switch the wires on top to the bottom (safely) and see if the burner or the igniter lights up?
I will take a picture and post it when I can.
Thanks. I appreciate the help. I understand the dual valve now. It may be that the oven side is bad. I’ll let you know what I find.
It measures near zero resistance across the two lower terminals leading to the bake side. Actually .001 ohms. So problem is in the control board. Probably a bad relay. I will look at the board again and check for loose wires leading down to the gas valve. What should I measure or look for to check the control board? Can I check output at the board by looking for a 120 volt output ? Are there test points I can look at on the board?
Thanks
There are a lot of numbers on the control board.
The control baord numbers are:
1005031339
RG01CXP002
183D7277P005CN
TORISAN AND TOTTORI SANYO ELECTRIC is the manufacturer names on it.
Do any of these numbers make sense?
The control board is basically 2 PC Boards mated together. On the smaller board, there are two sections marked BAKE and BROIL. There is one relay in each section. I am guessing they are independent to the different functions of broil and bake but they both have a COMMON Line wire. There is a LINE terminal (120v) going into the Board. Then in the bake section, there is a terminal (labeled BAKE) that leads down to the bake section igniter. I am guessing the relay in the bake may have gone bad. The PN on the relays are different so I am guessing one is NO and the other may be NC. They are Siemens relay, PN T7CS1D-12 (bake) AND T7CS5D-12 (broil). It happens alot for electronic relays to go bad. How Can I check the output or resistance of the control board at the bake terminal to be sure the control board is bad? ?
jmrec100 said:
…Then in the bake section, there is a terminal (labeled BAKE) that leads down to the bake section igniter…
Check for 120 VAC between that terminal and ground while the control calls for Bake. If there is no proper voltage then the control board has gone bad.
Gene.
P.S. I need you to double check the model number if you need the right part number for the control board.
Checked the model number several times. I know it does not correspond to the models that come up on the parts search.
MODEL NUMBER: JGBP26WEA5WW (Yes it is a ‘5’)
SERIAL NUMBER: VA205739P
I need to check the voltage.