Drain solenoid burned up because it stuck on,
likely due to the burned contacts in the timer.
Replaced the drain solenoid and the timer.
Both with new parts, timer is GE oem part.
Ran it thru a cycle, noted it wasn’t draining
because the drain solenoid wasn’t opening.
Scooped most of the water out, disconnected the
wires to the drain solenoid and hooked them up to
my multi-meter (verified good in a wall receptacle).
Ran it thru another cycle, at no time did the drain
solenoid get 110 volts.
Had bought the washer used, the manual that is
supposed to be under the right side of the tub is
missing, so I don’t have a wiring diagram to check
to see if the 3 wire cycling switch has anything
to do with the drain solenoid. On that switch,
1 wire is a neutral, 1 comes from the timer motor
(neutral side of the motor) and there’s another
hot wire. None of the wire colors on the cycling
switch are the same color as the hot wire to
the drain solenoid, but that doesn’t necessarily
mean anything.
Appreciate any help or ideas.
Also -
Had the float valve out and checked for continuity,
is OK, but when running thru a cycle when it wasn’t
draining, the tub overfilled - ? Haven’t checked the
float yet, maybe sticking?