Our dryer is heating up, but definitely not getting to the proper temperature. I checked the exhaust and it’s fine. Climbed up on the roof to check while dryer was running and there is strong airflow to the outside. Still, the air coming out is luke warm at best. I would guess that it’s heating up 50-75% of what is should be, resulting in longer drying times. Is it possible the element is going bad but hasn’t completely died yet, or does this sound like a thermostat issue? Thanks much - Brett
Your heating element has 2 heating coils, it is possible that 1 of those coils is bad and the other one is working fine, but not getting to temp. if so you need to replace the element.
v2k04 said:
push the idler down and feel for the hook, the idler arm will catch on the hook and stay there that will release the tension on the belt and undo the belt then remove t
Wow…I’ve been so accustomed to removing belts while keeping pressure against idler pulley springs, I didn’t know there was a hook on GEs to assist with belt removal/installation. They truly are tech friendly
Here is that restring kit part# you were asking about…http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2620171&pn_=WE11X10007
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Wow…I’ve been so accustomed to removing belts while keeping pressure against idler pulley springs, I didn’t know there was a hook on GEs to assist with belt removal/installation. They truly are tech friendly
— End quote
Ya it’s part of the motor bracket thats providing your arm is slim enough to get it in there to do it
How do you propose reinstalling the tumbler after servicing, or after replacing the bearing? I tip the machine on its back with a spacer block underneath to protect the vent tube. Is there a more effective way? That’s the way I handle the White/Westinghouse models, too.
Ok guys, I rewired the heating element (without much of a problem) and replaced the drum bearing and retainer bracket (a few tense moments but got through it) and now it’s down the home stretch of reassembly!.. when I got to the part of removing the drum a couple days ago I really didn’t take a good look at how the belt goes around the drive and tensioner (I know, my mistake) and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get it back in place with the proper tension. It has been a long week and the mind is not firing on all cylinders so what should be a relatively simple task has become a challenge;) Can someone please help me through this final part? The tensioner is on the lower left and I can force it to the right in order to reach the "hook" on the bracket if that helps in getting the belt back in place. Thanks–
With the belt around the drum and motor, pull the tensioner all the way to the right, now, the part of the belt that is on the right of the motor pulley goes on the tensioner. Once you have the belt lined up with the tensioner wheel, let go of the tensioner and walla your finished.
I would check you venting first, make sure the vent at the back of the dryer is not kinked. Then turn the dryer on and go to vent outside the house, and make sure you have a strong flow of air coming out. Blocked venting will cause long dry times.
Ok, so I assume you have a good flow of air at the outside vent. Do you have a temperature probe?
Yes, my lint filter is in the front. I do have a meat thermometer and it I put it outside in the vent and it is only 120. Nice enough to warm my hands!
How long did you leave the thermometer in there? Also, when did you change the element, and why?
The I would say the high limit t-stat is faulty, it’s located on the heater housing
The tub counter balance spring is disconnected from tub. Where does it connect.
It connects to a piece of sheet metal screwed to the tub, probably fell off, just look for it.