All,
Have a KitchenAid KSRS25IKWH01 Side by Side Refrigerator/Freezer. It was bought in late 2001. (Manufacture date 05/01)
The issues probably started about a year ago. The refrigerator one day seemed to get warm for about 24hours (ice cream, ice, and butter melted\softened way up) and then after a short period of time it went back to a normal temp. Everything seemed fine, considered in our minds the kids left the door open… so we pulled it out and cleaned condensor coils then put it all back.
Fast forward about 10 months and the ice maker (ice making part) stopped working entirely out of the blue. We were considering a new refrigerator but was hoping we could nurse it to the fall as we are planning a remodel of the kitchen at this time. Temperature seemed fine at this point.
Anyways just recently the refrigerator/freezer both warmed way up but in about 48-72 hours now it has not gotten cold at all. We have transferred food/etc to another refrigerator. We turned the refrigerator off for about four hours and turned it back on to the median range. After about 24 hours of no change we knocked it up one cooler number. Still No change in temperature …no coldness at all.
I can see\hear the Condensor fan running and the condensor coils are clean. The compressor is cold to the touch.
What can I test\troubleshoot?
I am engineer and have a few meters, but need some guidance to figure if we can nurse the refrigerator to the fall or look for a replacement.
You have to have a simple multimeter to proceed with the further troubleshooting.
Unplug the fridge and remove the control box. Remove the orange wire from the freezer thermostat (the left one). Make sure this wire is not touching any other part and/or any metal surface. Measure the voltage between this wire and the ground. Normal reading suppose to be about 120 VAC.
If the reading is correct, check for continuity between the terminal where the orange wire was connected to and the terminal where the red wire is connected to while the thermostat is On.
If there is no continuity, replace the thermostat.
If there is continuity, post the result and we will go further.
The adaptive defrost control board [part]AP3109394[/part]
Gene\All,
There is continuity at the left most thermostat.
The voltage reading from orange wire at the left most thermostat is 104 Volts with my standard Craftsman multimeter. I tried another cheapy harbor freight multimeter I commonly use for automotive work and it read 107 Volts.
Craftsman voltage from the wall socket normally reads 123 Volts.
Such voltage reading looks suspicious, especially because under the load of the compressor it could go much lower. I would recommend to replace the ADC board.
Gene.
P.S. Did you hear any clicking sound from the compressor?
Gene,
Was about to order the part when I read the PS part of your forum more closely and it got me a thinking…
Out of curiousity, is there a way to test the compressor directly?
The compressor is cold and there is no hum from it. Will a compressor just go bad (stay cold) or do they usually just continue to run (get hot)
until they reach a temp limit and shut down?
This start device should be the next step in our troubleshooting. It it does rattle, then it’s definitely has to be replaced.
One more thing. 105 VAC coming to the thermostat from the ADC while the incoming voltage is around 120 VAC is very bad because the compressor requires 120 VAC ± 10%. If voltage is less than 108 VAC, it will damage the compressor very soon. So, to avoid possible troubles I would recommend to replace ADC board too.
If the compressor is the original then the start device [part]AP3885081[/part]
If the compressor has been already replaced then the start device [part]AP3083556[/part]
Gene,
The cooling parts (starter relay and ADC board) were order and UPS tracking says they may be here tomorrow.
But I was thinking about the ice maker…Actually wife was pushing to try and correct the ice maker.
The ice maker stopped working out of the blue as I had mention previously.
I believe the issue has to do with water supply to the ice tray section as the tray has no ice or water in the ice tray section.
My water supply to the water outlet in the front of the fridge works fine.
Need some guidance here…I believe the issue is its not getting water in the tray area.
I see there is a Emmitter/Receiver, Thermostat, and a Valve inlet that plays a part in the ice maker system. Can you guide me in how to test?
My plans are if the cooling gets working again to buy the replacement parts for the ice maker but I was thinking that it may be easier to trouble shoot things with the refridge empty and out in the open then once all the food is back.
Gene,
The refrigerator seems to be working. I got it back together this past Friday. Would have been Monday afternoon but wife had unexpected surgery for a gall bladder problem, had it removed, and spent the week in the hospital.
I also replaced the water filter and cleaned the unit inside and out…Looks almost new now.
The refrigerator freezes u-fill ice trays (freezer) and keeps things cold (both sides). I have it set one up (warmer) from the "standard" middle settings (both sides) as there is not much in the unit as I did a major cleanout. The compressor is very quite but it is running (vibration) and it gets warm but not hot to the touch. It appears to cycle…meaning it does turn off for large periods of time and then turns back on as I would expect. (Had the refrigerator outside its normal location till end of day Saturday making sure.
Anyways the only thing I do not have is my ice maker working. I believe I read somewhere it may take up to 2-3 days for it to make the first bunch of ice but I do not see water in the automatic ice maker tray yet. Its below 10 degrees in the freezer according to my thermometer (not very good one but my ice cream is frozen as well as popcicles for the kids) and I have flipped the ice maker switch (inside freezer) at least once since Saturday.
Any suggestions… should I give it another flip of the switch (ice maker)…or leave it for a couple more days?
I’m glad you were able to fix the fridge. Let’s do the ice maker troubleshooting now.
Does the water dispenser work? If it does, locate the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge. Swap the wires between the solenoids. Press the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and check if there is water in the ice maker.
If there is no water, replace the water inlet valve.
Gene,
The Water Inelt Valve seems to be the issue.
When the water switch is flipped on the front I get 120V at the cold water Water Inlet Connection. I applied that to ice maker Water Inlet valve as instructed and no click nor water in the ice maker. Tried it more then once…still nothing. Placed it on the water inlet valve for the cold water dispenser and water out the front as expected.