Really could use some help girls/gals.
I have a KitchenAid Superba KSCS25FKSS00 fridge and here is the problem. The freezer is cool (the coil is cold) however the evaporator fan does not seem to go on. The fridge is warm (I take it because the evap fan is not working). This is what I’ve done. I ran through the wiring diagram’s test sequence using the control panel and according to the diagram. It showed that the evaporator fan is defective as well as the VC compressor. I’ve checked the voltage on the Evaporator fan WH and YL and there is no voltage. BU and RD shows 16volts.
Could this mean that the Control board is defective? How can I determine what the problem is?
Any help REALLY appreciated, wifes on me to get it working. Food going bad!!
Evap fan should run on 120 VAC. Disconnect (and remove, if practical). Hook up a test cord. If the fan runs, the problem is probably in the control board. If not, replace it.
Hooey! If my advice were followed, you would have let the smoke out of the fan. You can’t put the smoke back in, once it’s released! I guess this old Maytag man better start consulting the schematics more often. Thanks, Denman
I did test the board voltage to the FAN motor it is indeed working. The problem seems to be the fan.
How highly recommended is it to replace the board as well. I’ve read some places that you should replace both but I really don’t feel like spending $300 on a new board?
Okay I’m an idiot. I bought a replacement fan (the fan was replaced with a replacement part number which was wired wrong, had to change the pins to match the original fan). It didn’t work. The evap fan was still not working.
I made a mistake when I measured the voltages out of the evap connector. I did NOT get any voltage coming out of YL/BK to WH/V. I did get 22 volts coming out of YL/RD to WH/V. Thinking that’s all I need.
So I followed it back to the control board connector. From there I followed the trace on the underside of the board. The trace led me to a surface mount fuse feeding I believe is a triac or voltage regulator (it was a house component - no numbers). In any case this fuse was blown. So I soldered a 1 ohm resistor on top of the fuse (just in case) just to prove my theory and voila the fan worked. I now have to find the value of the fuse (it’s just marked with a FF). I’m thinking a 1-3amp fuse? I don’t have schematics for this so I’m just guessing seeing that the fan is 3 watts.
Let me know if I’m an idiot for fooling around with the control board or whether I should get a new one. It’s just that it so darn expensive for just a blown fuse and I’m hoping this post will help someone else who runs into this exact problem.
[COLOR=Blue]"Let me know if I’m an idiot for fooling around with the control board or whether I should get a new one."
[/COLOR]
Not an idiot in my opinion!!!
Used to be the norm to troubleshoot to component level.
As far as I can see what is the worst that can happen, you could blow the board and you would have to buy a new one.
Also a shorted motor winding would knock out the fuse so it is a definite possibility that there is nothing wrong with the board.
3 watts at 12 volts would be 0.25 amps.
So I would go with a 1 amp fuse.
