Refridgerator question: Kenmore model #596.52672200 Mfg#p52672000w0 Ser#10307373an
Problem: Refridgerator runs but does not cool freezer or fridge. Noticed prior to not cooling a fan noise by the compressor area. Checked all fans and they are all running.Checked condenser coils and they are clean. Checked panel behind compressor and can hear clicking noise at the compressor where switch relays are locataed. Thinking it could be a start relay or overload protector at the compressor by looking at fix it yourself manual but not sure of the name of the parts on this Kenmore model . Not sure how to test compressor parts. Pulled off one part that is approx 2x1 1/4(cmks shizuki nsk85212-44/75c) but not sure what this is. Any ideas? My email is hainescm@hotmail.com…Thanks.
Here is the relay/overload for the compressor.
AP4013414
Click on the picture for more views/info.
Only applies if the compressor is clicking on/off fairly fast which by the sound of it is what is happening.
If the compressor is running then your problem is elsewhere. Usually you can hear it also feel it vibrating and it should be warm not hot.
Here are a couple sites that should help you troubleshoot. The second site has better info on how to check the parts.
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
Thank you. I ordered the relay/overload part but have a question. How do I get the part off the compressor? I pulled on it but was afraid to pull to hard because I wasn’t sure how it was connected.
Thanks again.
Usually you have to remove a cover or a spring clip.
Here are a couple good site that should be useful.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
Thank you for replying. I did take the wire clip off and then pulled off a what looks like some kind relay that connects into the overload switch. The overload switch ( white peice from the picture) is attached to the compressor seems snug how is it attached to the compressor ? Is it held on by pins or two sided tape.I could take picture of it tonight and upload it. Thank you for your time.
As far as I know it should just pull off.
thank you. i’ll let you know what happens,part should be here today.
just letting everyone know that the overload switch was the problem. frig running good. thank you for taking your time with this.
Chris
I have a Kenmore bottom freezer refrigerator (Model 59679142990 MFG #P1321804TW) that does not cool, and just keeps blowing warm air, with a clicking noise in the back by the compressor every minute or so.
So I bought a start relay(#10097204) and a capacitor (#65889-4) from you about a month ago. I put the relay in and it worked perfect for about 3 weeks, ya! Then it started blowing warm air again (it continues to run) and clicking every so often as before.
After that I did put the capacitor in, but that didn’t change anything. And prior to all this, I replaced the defrost timer, with no change.
My limited knowledge of ohm testing:
-the compressor showed both the ‘start’ and ‘run’ had a reading of about .5x10, and the ground test showed no movement on the needle.
-the overload switch read ‘0’.
-have not found how to test the ‘solid state’ relay.
Some things that I have observed:
-both the fans are running
-the light switches are working
-the compressor is warm, not hot, and humming/vibrating
-the condenser coils have been cleaned
Could this problem be the ‘overload’? it did check out on the ohm meter. Your help would be much appreciated, I am out of ideas on what could be wrong with this frig!
Thanks!
Pull the back freezer panel and check the frost pattern. If a little bit of frost at the input tubing, and no other frost, you either have a bad compressor, or it ran out of refrigerant due to a leak.
thank you richappy, I will try that!
There was a light frost throughout all the fins. I’m taking it that would be the good news!
When I first plugged it in there was a few clicks and then it ran just fine for 5 hours or so until it reached the designated temperature before shutting off. Each time it came on there were more clicks and the temp started to warm up on the thermometer I put in the frig.
Do you have any other ideas on this? Thank you I appreciate your help!
Failure to put the run capacitor in probably damaged the compressor windings. The compressor is designed to require a run capacitor to aid in poor starting conditions and re-start while still under high pressure. It is now basically a hard starting compressor.
One fix is to install a lower resistance ptc as mentioned in my article "replacing compressor start devices", just put that in the fridg search box.
It always ran with a capacitor in it.
I had ordered the two parts (relay and capacitor), but just put the new relay in first, because I wasn’t sure what was causing the problem. These parts were factory recommended identical to the ones I took out, and I had done a drawing on where the wires were supposed to go.
Ok there, if you want to fix it yourself, you will need an amp probe and good digital meter.You will need these to properly test the current draw and to change to a discrete ptc start device.
OK, thank you richappy for all your responses and help with this, I do appreciate it!