It finished the defrost, the timer exited to COMPRESSOR mode, having run for 30 mins.
I left the DEFROST circuit CLOSED, 'cause the timer is out of defrost mode, anyway.
However, still NO POWER to the timer, even though
. timer is in non-defrost mode
. Cold Control is closed (compressor & all fans running and freezer is cooling
!!!
I checked a few minutes later
(just to clean the drain pan from the previous defrost),
and
the TIMER is RUNNING !! – in COMPRESSOR mode !!
!!!
So, apparently, I just had to let the compressor run for a few minutes and he did something to close a circuit to the timer.
So now I have a new timer – OK
Will have a new thermostat – also OK.
I just need to replace the wiring to the heater (and maybe the heater) and I should be good to go !!
Thanks for all the help so far.
I’ll follow up when I have built a whole new refrigerator - haha.
Quick follow-up.
Since the old freezer bi-metal thermostat seemed to be working now (after I removed it, heated and froze it a few times, and banged it around a little), and the heater is working (although with a flakey wiring connector), I decided to put the old thermo back in line and manually test the defrost cycle.
I let it run in cooling mode for while to let the thermo get to low temp.
Then I manually advanced the defrost timer defrost mode and let it run.
The heater came on and started defrosting, so the thermo was definitely closed.
I let it finish the defrost, but I didn’t check whether the thermo opened up at high temp before the full 30 mins of defrost mode on the timer expired. Doesn’t really matter since a brand new one is on the way in the mail.
Anyway, I left it all hooked up and let it run normally the rest of the day and overnight.
This morning I checked it and the defrost mode had just finished not too long ago and the evaporator coil was clean as a whistle.
Again, I think that I’ll be good with the new thermo and heater wiring.
I fixed the faulty heater wiring connector.
Actually, I just cut out the old connector and then used a Raychem heat-shrink DuraSeal butt connector. I also put additional heat shrink around that (belt & suspenders :>) to be sure no moisture could get in.
BTW, this was a pretty big PITA.
The heater wiring is way in back and very hard to access to get a good crimp on the connection.
Furthermore, the freezer is very narrow, so I got a good workout contorting myself sideways, with one arm above and the other one below. I think that the next time I do this to an 18-yr old fridge, I’ll just strip, twist, tape, and heat-shrink and avoid trying to crimp!
I was still waiting for the new bi-metal defrost thermostat to arrive,
but in the meantime everything was working, albeit with the old thermo.
The new thermo arrived yesterday and I just installed it last evening.
Again, I used the same technique as above to connect it in.
With longer wires and being a little more in the front, it was a lot easier to deal with.
Manually tested everything – OK.
I left it overnight and it’s gone thru a full cycle on its own and it’s looking good!