Serial #EL1945876
Greetings, Over the weekend the Freezer/Refrigerator stopped Freezing and Cooling. The fan in the freeze operates and the fan in the compressor continues to operate. I can hear a click for about 10 second and then another click (going off) The amperage draw/wattage draw when the demand happens is 8.7 amps/1050 watts for 10 seconds and then drops to .2 amps/25 watts. Within 2 minutes it cycles again.
Last time this happened it was the temperature control switch part 2204605 (FSP) and I replaced that. I tried to replace the switch this time with no improvement and the same symptoms. The compression is warm to touch but not hot. The grille and coils are all clear, clean and dust free?
Any suggestions as I’ve emptied and clean the Top Freezer and Bottom Cooler
Thanks in Advance
I would replace the compressor start device AP3961332 if the old device rattles when shaken or has no continuity between the run and start mating pins. Make sure you plug in the run capacitor.
You can save a lot of money if you use the ptcr device mentioned in my article "replacing compressor start devices", just put it in the search box. You will need to wire in the run capacitor between the run and start compressor pins.
— Begin quote from richappy;476080
I would replace the compressor start device AP3961332 if the old device rattles when shaken or has no continuity between the run and start mating pins. Make sure you plug in the run capacitor.
You can save a lot of money if you use the ptcr device mentioned in my article "replacing compressor start devices", just put it in the search box. You will need to wire in the run capacitor between the run and start compressor pins.
— End quote
Thank You,
I removed the white module with 3 wires Red/Blue/ and double White. As I shook the module, it rattled and black pepper came out. Very interesting. You have increased my knowledge and I hope that replacement with the OEM part will resolve the issues. (what is the black pepper particles)
Best Wishes
— Begin quote from richappy;476402
You have an exploded ptcr device caused by power surge. If you use the replacement device, I would put a 1000 joule surge protector on the fridg outlet. Make sure it is designed for appliances, available at Wall Mart.
The ptcr I suggested is much more reliable, but requires more wiring.
— End quote
Thank You for your quick advice. I am most fortunate to have a Sear’s Parts Store, within a mile of our house and a regional parts center about 8 miles away. Sears parts was out of stock, but the regional part store had the part in stock. I drove out and pick up the box, half way home as I was waiting for the stoplight I opened the box expecting to see a module/device and was I surprised to see a box of pieces. I turned around and took it back. I was expecting a replace part/component to match exactly what I removed. A two-piece device that looke like a module 3 blades for the white, red and blue connectors, plus one green ground wire. Inside the box were tiny pieces of parts I have to assemble, along with a black plastic box, and 3 pages of instructions. This looks like I’ll have to retro-fit pieces to form a device. Is it any wonder that I’m surprised?
More to follow, but thanks again for the advice and suggestion.
Best Wishes
— Begin quote from richappy;476790
Look at the device AP3961332. If identical, order it here, the Sears part will require a meter and wiring to hook up.
— End quote
1st, I want to thank RicHappy for his advice and suggestion. This morning the freezer was 70 degrees. An hour later, its about 32.4 and dropping. This proves that I can read, and follow detail instructions (smiling). There were a total of 12 instructions, beginning with #1 Pull the refrig from the wall. #2 Unplug the power cord. #3 Remove the screws from the compartment cover… and so on. 12 Check compressor run and return refrig to its original position.
The part I removed was 4SP1099. The kit I received was for Embraco EGY60, EGY70 and EMU60 Compressors. It included:
2154760- Overload
2214067- Overload
Black -PTC Relay
1- White jumper wire
I ended up using the 2214067 Overload, the Black PTC Relay and the White Jumper Wire and placing them where the device was formerly. A new black plastic cover was provided, which snapped in place. I plugged in the unit and turn on the temp control. I am cool to go, thanks to all.
Best Wishes
richappy said:
Look at the device AP3961332. If identical, order it here, the Sears part will require a meter and wiring to hook up.
Hmm, that looks exactly like my original part I mention in my thread (Help did I order the right part). But zooming in on the picture the part number seems different than mine (2212193). My original one sounds exactly like what is described in this thread double white wire, blue wire, red wire, and green to ground.
I also ordered the new part which is a bunch of seperate pieces hoping to install it myself but I have no meter or know how to do extra wiring.
Will the part you linked (AP3961332) work for my side by side? It seems to say its for top mount fridges.
Thx
[SIZE=3]I have an Amana fridge with the freezer on the bottom. We have had it for over 10 years and have never had any problems, until now. A couple weeks ago the fridge seemed to be getting warm and then the freezer followed in a couple days. At this point we didn’t think the fridge was getting warm we knew it was more than just the door being left open. I vacuumed all the coils behind the front kick plate and turned the fridge and freezer dials up to 6. The next day had no improvement. I unplugged and took off the panel on the back of the fridge and inside the freezer. I vacuumed the back of the fridge. Behind the panel in the freezer was a solid block of ice encasing the coils and blocking the vent to the fridge. I defrosted with a hair dryer. Put everything back together, and left the dials at 6. A week and a half later the air flow was down and the fridge was starting to warm. I put my hand in front of the vent at the back top of the fridge and opened the freezer door and the air flow increased, confirming a air flow blockage. I read online that to pour some warm water down the vent in the back corner at the BOTTOM of the fridge would fix the air flow problem. It did. I also read that the dials should be at 4 so I did this also to both. Now about a week later I noticed the air flow is slow again, which means the temp will be going again, again I poured some warm water down the back corner vent in the bottom of the fridge, and the air flow increased. I don’t want to keep messing with this, so I would like to know what is probably broken. The fans work. The compressor turns off and on, though it might be running more often, but I don’t know, I am just paying attention now. (It hasn’t had a problems in 10+yrs, so I never paid attention to how long it was “on” before.) I believe I have heard a distinct click when the compressor turns off but nothing else of notice. I haven’t taken the back panel in the freezer off yet, but in general the inside of the freezer is free of frost. I am assuming something wore out because this vent being blocked is new, so something isn’t working right anymore. What is a part or two I could replace to solve this issue so I don’t have to keep messing with it weekly? Thank you.[/SIZE]
Hi.
Based on the information you provided the problem is defrost system failure.
There are three parts involved :
- defrost timer ( Located bottom right behind the grill).
-defrost heater and
-defrost thermostat both located at the evaporator in the freezer.
Turn the defrost timer shaft CW slowly until the fridge stops.
Waite 10 min. You should hear hissing sound from the defrost heater.
If the heater is on - replace the timer.
The defrost timer [part]R0131577[/part]
If not - remove the evaporator cover and check continuity at the defrost thermostat and heater. The thermostat must be ice cold when tested.
The defrost thermostat [part]10442411 [/part]
The defrost heater [part]10428409 [/part]
Make sure that all the snow is melted and air ways are open.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Amana BX21VW REF - BOTTOM MOUNTS | AppliancePartsPros.com
Thank you. Post the results.
Simon.
Thank you for your reply. Whem I turn the defrost timer shaft (clockwise?) wait 10 min, if it hisses, is it okay or bad? How do I know if the heater is on? What if there is no noise after the fridge stops. Finally, do I need to turn the timer shaft back to the original position after this test? So if it isn’t broken then I can move to the next test, or have it work until the order part shows up. Should I just order the two the timer and thermostat because maybe they both wear out and I am inthere working anyway? Someone elses post got a response that said if there is no frost on the back wall in the freezer then its not the defrost stuff. what do you think? There isn’t any frost on the back wall that faces my food right now in the freezer.
Thank you for your reply. When I turn the defrost timer shaft (clockwise?) wait 10 min, if it hisses, is it okay or bad? How do I know if the heater is on? What if there is no noise after the fridge stops. Finally, do I need to turn the timer shaft back to the original position after this test? So if it isn’t broken then I can move to the next test, or have it work until the order part shows up. Should I just order the two the timer and thermostat because maybe they both wear out and I am inthere working anyway? Someone elses post got a response that said if there is no frost on the back wall in the freezer then its not the defrost stuff. what do you think? There isn’t any frost on the back wall that faces my food right now in the freezer. thank you again
Hi.
If the defrost heater makes hissing noise, that means it’s HOT and that means it’s good and also the defrost thermostat is good.
To start the refrigerator turn the defrost timer CW until the compressor will start.
Lets start from the beginning.
What are the symptoms now?
Does the cold air comes into the fresh food compartment?
If not is the evaporator blocked with snow?
Please remember, that you are my eyes and hands. You’ve got to answer my questions or I won’t be able to diagnose the problem.
Thank you.
Simon.
Simon, thank you for your help so far. So I did the test of turning the timer, had a winding sound as I turned it about a turn and a half. The compressor shut off and the fridge is quiet no noise. I mentioned in the title there is most definately frost on the back panel in the freezer, and I can tell by a gentle push on the panel that the coils are covered also. After about 10 minutes I didn’t do anything but the compressor just kicked on by itself. I never heard any hissing. So what parts can I order to best fix this problem. The weekend is almost here and I would rather not defrost the whole thing again and again if I can just order the part(s), defrost and then install new parts. Thank you for your help, I like to grow in the knowledge of repair but the parts and symptoms are a learning curve. btw is it best when replacing parts like the thermostat that I should just replace the timer at the same time, because they are both worn out so eventually will need to be changed? Thank you again, I plan to order today, what do you recommend? If I really need to do the continuity test I would have to find the meter and if you can include a link where I can follow what I am looking for while doing it and how to set up the meter. unless you think it probably the thermostat because its not the timer. Thank you
Hi.
You can order all 3 parts, the heater is less probable cause.
You can return any unused parts even if they been installed.
Thank you.
Simon.
You can order all 3 parts, the heater is less probable cause.
You can return any unused parts even if they been installed.
Thank you.
Simon
Is it less likely it is the timer though because it turned on without me doing anything? WIth the panel off in the back coils are covered in snow/ ice and it is clear that the element has not turned on no sign that the ice has melted at all around it, does that mean it is the defrost heater or will that not turn on if the defost thermostat is broken. the ice/snow is in an even layer all over the whole area behind the panel. does this narrow it to the most probable two causes. I wasn’t sure also if there is an answer to if it is better to just replace the timer even if it is not bad because I am changing the thermostat? did the symptoms i described so far seem to indicate a bad timer? Seems like the defrost thermostat and maybe the defrost heater depending on how you answered the question above about the defrost thermostat. Thank you. sorry it took me a few to get back on here i didn’t get an email that you had answered my post. Thank you.
I am ordering a defrost thermostat because there is no continuity (the the test was actually easy! Finding the meter in the garage was the harder part). Thank you for your help- God bless
You are very welcome.
Simon.
Unit sometimes agitates normally, other times agitator doesn’t move at all, or only slightly. Runs through timed cycles normally, including normal fill and spin cycles. Timer switch/control wobbles and seems loose. Feels like it might have a broken wafer. Is it possible that the problem is confined to the switch, or might I be looking at a transmission problem?
Use the info on this site here
http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer-repair.html
to see if you are getting an error code. the first thing to do is to go through a reset and see if that fixes things.
Your time problem can be broken ‘legs’ that hold the timer to the console, that is fairly common on this model. Take off the back of the console and check it ou. If it is broken you can replace it or try to live with it.