Same old problem, Freezer cold, Fridge not

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
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1

Okay, been searching the forums and can find answers, but not the exact answer.

Background:
Had a power surge/outage about 3 weeks ago.

Problem:
Freezer and frig went out. Replaced control module/motherboard, as it was physically smoked. Unit started up and everything worked fine. The damper motor did however make a clicking sound until the frig side started to cool, and then it quit, now Freezer is cold, frig is not. Evap coil is iced over.

What I have done to date:

As stated, replaced control module/mother board.

Checked defrost thermostat when cold, it has continuity, opens up at room temperature.

Checked defrost heater, it has continuity.

Found out through a search here that the small clear coated wire loop taped to the freezer t-stat probe is probably the evap thermistor. It has 6.5 ohms at 76 degrees, room temperature. This thermistor does not show up as a part number on the parts list on section 5.

Checked both t-stats manually, and they open and close and have continuity when switching all the way from off to extreme cold setting as the dial is turned.

As I said before, evap and condensor fans are working, and the unit was cooling along just fine, then yesterday I noticed the temp in the fridge rising, snow in the freezer compartment, all the usual suspects for typical problems I have seen on here. removed back cover and the evap coil is iced over. Damper door was not working…

Any ideas what could be wrong…

Thanks,
Tom

3

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=FRS26lf7DS2

Here is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Anderson/240389616.pdf

Try forcing a defrost cycle.

You may have two problems in the unit. One being the defrost and the other being the damper control.

But they may also be the same problem as defrost problems will show up first in the fresh food side and later in the freezer.

Check the defrost thermostat as they can go intermittent especially if they are deformed/ bulged out.

4

How do I force a defrost cycle?

In addition, I have all those diagrams, but they do not show the evap thermistor part number. Does this appear correct from the reading I posted?

T,

5

the evap thermistor part number
Do you mean the evaporator thermostat?
The evaporator thermostat is Item 21 in Section 6 of the parts.

6

— Begin quote from denman;445234

the evap thermistor part number
Do you mean the evaporator thermostat?
The evaporator thermostat is Item 21 in Section 6 of the parts.

— End quote

No, it’s the small clear coated wire loop taped to the freezer t-stat probe. It does not show up on the parts diagram.

Again, how do I force a defrost cycle?

T,

7

Forcing a defrost procedure is in the wiring diagram sheet.
Center of the first page (NOTE).

8

— Begin quote from denman;445988

Forcing a defrost procedure is in the wiring diagram sheet.
Center of the first page (NOTE).

— End quote

Perfect, thanks…

Now, what are your thoughts about the small sensor taped to the freezer t-stat capillary tube…? Could that be a thermistor? If so, do you know where I can get a part number, I don’t see one anywhere?

9

Looking at the wiring diagram I do not see a thermistor so I do not know what this is.

There is an insulating sleeve that goes over the probe but this is usually just a clear plastic tube.

10

— Begin quote from denman;446291

Looking at the wiring diagram I do not see a thermistor so I do not know what this is.

There is an insulating sleeve that goes over the probe but this is usually just a clear plastic tube.

— End quote

I know, driving me nuts, it is a wire that is plugged in series with the damper motor. It has a clear plastic outer jacket, with what appears to be a tightly wound wire coil inside. It is about 6-8 inches long, and just makes a loop, in and out of the plug. It is taped with foil tape to the capillary tube that goes into the freezer from the freezer t-stat. I cannot find reference to it anywhere. It ohms at 6.5 ohms, at room temperature, which is right inline wth some of the other readings I see from the other brands…I am at a loss here as to what to replace…or even the exact operating sequence for the defrost cycle.

T,

11

Hi Tom,

There are no any thermistors in your refrigerator because the temperature controls by two regular temperature controls and the only electronic part is the defrost control. If you can post a pictures, it might help us to understand what is it.

Gene.

12

Took a hard look at the wiring diagram and noticed the following.

There is what looks like a heater that does hook into the damper motor.
It is just to the left of the control board in the wiring layout.
It is labelled Fast Freeze.
It does not show up on the wiring schematic.

I am not sure what this is doing but my guess is that they turn it on when you select fast freeze and then it adds some heat to the thermostat and that causes the freezer to go to a lower temperature.

Perhaps they are using the damper motor to limit the current to this heater.
At 6.5 ohms 120 volts it would be a 140 watt heater or pulling 18.5 amp which would be way too high.
So either they are doing the above or applying a lower voltage to it.

Hopefully Gene or someone else can either agree with my thoughts on this or have a better idea as to what it is.

Note: I am guessing so take what I say with a grain of salt.

13

Can you send to Gene? I already posted on the sticky, but I know you guys are busy. I really don’t want to call a repairman, if I can just purchase the part here and install myself…

Thanks for your help so far…

T,

14

Tom and denman,

I found this part too. On the wiring diagram it’s shown as "Fast Freeze Heater" - optional part. On the parts list it’s listed as "Heater-freezer control" with no reference number.

Checking out the "[](ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Anderson/240389312en.pdf"]Owners manual[/URL]", I found on page 12 that on SOME models there is an option which called "Extreme Freeze" and can be activated by the pad on the dispenser control panel. Looking at the dispenser control panel picture for your model

[URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3211040&pn_=240323948)

I did not find such pad. So I’m assuming this heater is unneeded part in your refrigerator and eliminating it would not hurt anything.

Further on, according to the description on the existing problem you posted, I would suspect the damper control assembly. Especially if there is no sufficient air flow into the fresh food compartment.

Gene.

15

Okay, that part is cheap enough to try. Can you tell me what exactly initiates a defrost cycle.? Would it be the electonic controller, or "motherboard", as it were?

Thanks for all your help…

Tom…

16

Tom,

I’m not sure which part did you call "motherboard". There is only one electronic part (besides the board which controls the dispenser) in your refrigerator which is the Adaptive Defrost Control board (#23 on the diagram). This is the only part which controls defrost cycle.

When you posted in the very first post that you replaced "control module/mother board", I assumed you were talking about this part.

Gene.

17

Did you ever force a defrost cycle?

We sort of got sidetracked with that thermostat heater.

Originally you said "removed back cover and the evap coil is iced over."
But you never did say if the coils were iced/frosted over to the point where the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.

18

Gene, yes I replaced that part, the orange box with the printed circuit board in it. I was wondering, could it be bad, as everything worked fine for about a week, then I had the freeze up, and no defrost cycle?

Denham, yes the coils were completly iced over, so as not to allow any air to pass. I had already disassembled everything, so didn’t try to force defrost. Think I will purchase damper, and put everything back together and try it again.

Once again, thanks for you guys help so far, we’ll get this thing fixed one way or another… :slight_smile:

T,

19

Since you have it apart why not check out the defrost parts in the freezer.

The heating element should be around 20 ohms.

The defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen.
Hold it’s face on an ice cube to freeze it it the coils are clear of ice.
Note: If it is deformed/bulged replace it even if it does measure OK.

20

— Begin quote from Gene;451791

Tom,

I’m not sure which part did you call "motherboard". There is only one electronic part (besides the board which controls the dispenser) in your refrigerator which is the Adaptive Defrost Control board (#23 on the diagram). This is the only part which controls defrost cycle.

When you posted in the very first post that you replaced "control module/mother board", I assumed you were talking about this part.

Gene.

— End quote

— Begin quote from denman;452398

Since you have it apart why not check out the defrost parts in the freezer.

The heating element should be around 20 ohms.

The defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen.
Hold it’s face on an ice cube to freeze it it the coils are clear of ice.
Note: If it is deformed/bulged replace it even if it does measure OK.

— End quote

Okay, it appears that the new ADC IV was bad. I got another one under warranty and replaced it. Also, this one came with an instruction sheet that said to delete the "fast freeze" sensor, which was attached to the temp. probe for the fresh food side. Just as you had mentioned previously Gene. I did not have this function on the control panel, but the wiring was there for it. Must have been some of the problem with the ADC IV, as I could not force a defrost cycle either.

It also told me which set of contacts to use on the damper motor, as the new wiring harness did not have the second set of wires for that fast freeze sensor. The first ADC kit, did not have this sheet, much to my dismay. I changed the defrost heater element, thermometer and damper motor. All seems to be working fine now, we’ll see how it goes.

Soooo…thanks guys (Denham and Gene) for your help, this forum is great, and now I understand how the system is supposed to work. You guys are an invaluable resource. You saved me a ton of money in repair costs, and the prices here are much cheaper than Sears…thanks again.

Tom