We’ve had this dryer for a few years. It’s been reliable up until now. Okay, let me start off by saying, AFTER I started working on it, my wife decided to let me know that it had standing water in it and she decided to use it anyway before it tore up. I’m not sure what effect that would have had, but anyway:
The dryer will not heat up. At first it ran for hours without even getting warm. I took it apart, read the heating element for continuity (also took it out and gave it a lookover), also the 2 thermostats on the element housing, and also the thermistor and thermostat on the blower housing. Everything read fine. The blower is blowing hard out of the vent so that should be fine.
The unit has 120 going in both leads on the pig tail.
The only thing that has changed after messing around with it, is that it will not run continuously now. It runs for a few seconds and gives me HE error, which is supposed to indicate a lint clog or thermistor problem. I have traced every inch of exhaust and the thermistor is reading 11K ohms.
Where do I go from here? Please help!!
Hey, thanks for the help! I measured 118 volts at the black lead running in the heater relay and 0 volts on the out side. Upon startup, the blue (out) wire would read 2 volts and then zero out. Do I need to replace the entire board?
Thanks! I recieved and installed the board. Now, I am getting 120 in and 120 out. But still getting an error message HE. I’m afraid I’ve unplugged the heating element and all the thermostats and wired it back up wrong. I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know how it’s supposed to go?
The side-by-side quit cooling. I removed the evap fan, which will not run when I hear the compressor run, and it checked good. Only 35 volts to the leads. The compressor fan is working fine and the compressor sounds like it is cycling on/off rapidly. I removed the overload and relay &they seem good. Compressor windings test good. I have no idea how to test the relay board. I did the 4 quick door light on/off to reset the defroster and it seemed to work properly. The compressor kicked on, but no cooling. Is voltage to the evap fan controlled thru the board? Does the board also control the compressor time? THANKS, I am on the last straw.
Hi.
When you open the evaporator cover and the fan was not running do you recall if the evaporator was frosted?
If it was - bypass the defrost thermostat and see if the fan will start. If it will you may have the bad thermostat or not cold enough freezer.
Post the results.
Simon.
Same model dryer…same no heat issue. I want to clarify how you are measuring the 240 volts at the pcb board relay. I’m getting 120 volts off of each relay wire (black & blue wire) to ground. Same thing at the power cord connector block. If I understand you correctly that these readings must be 240 volts across the relay to ground or are we talking a combined total of 120v to grd+120v to grd = a total of 240v? I bought a new pcb…same readings and still no heat. The motor revs up…I measure 120v to grd at all the heater box connectors as well as through the motors centrical switch wires (red) at the motor connector block. The heat element is 10 ohms…each of the three thermostats are under 1 ohm. The thermistor is 15k ohms but so does the new one I bought. I have the drum off so I can get at everything easily as well. That shouldn’t make a difference troubleshooting wise…should it? I’m at a loss hear as to the cause of this no heat problem unless the new pcb Samsung sent me is defective. Please advise…I’m at a loss hear. thanks Steve
Hello Steve. No, you will measure for 120 volts from the relay and the other 120 is from the motor. This gives you your 240 volts at the heater when you measure across both heater wires.
Does this dryer have a fuse element…if so were would I find it? I want to make sure I understand you correctly about getting 240 volts to the heat element red and blue wire. Does the 120 volt blue wire come down from the pcb board relay to one side of the heat element. And does the 120 volts on the red wire at the heat element comes directly of the line 2 input feeder then goes through the motor centrifugal switch then to the other side of the heat element? Hence we have two 120 volt inputs to the heater element. Is that correct? This no heat trouble is really strange.
There is some thermostats that if bad, will prevent the heater from working. If you access the heater, you have 2 wires coming to it. Unplug both wires from the heater, and make sure they are not touching metal. Then test for power to each wire. Each wire should show 120 VAC. If not, trace the dead wire until you find the voltage. Then you have located the bad part in the unit.
I tested for voltage as you said. Took the red and blue wire off the heater element…reading 120 V off each wire when turned on. I know the heater element is good. I know all three thermostats ohm good and even when as far as jumping across all of them did not produce heat. .
Ok, then you are either dropping ground, or the element is bad, but testing good. If the voltage is there, it should heat.
when I put a ext. Cord on it get heat & it runs fine other then no heat
It needs 240 VAC to heat and an extension cord is 120 VAC. It is not going to heat with 120 VAC, but it will run.
What’s the thermistor do Samsung gv vague spec 10k@77F no good or bad range. original 1 & new 1 mtr 15k @ 50 degrees.
Post a question under the Question and Answers section on this part page. Include your email and I will send you some information to help you on this model. Thanks.
AP4201716
My dryer is 14 months old heater just stopped. The heater relay gets 240v on the black line feeding the relay but when turned on the relay never closes to transfer the 240v. I i by pass the relay heater kicks right on i replace control board 3 time from different companies and no change on any of them replace the display board no change replaced thermistor and still no change need advise.
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Does this dryer have a fuse element…if so were would I find it? I want to make sure I understand you correctly about getting 240 volts to the heat element red and blue wire for https://kcscfm.com/samsung-dryer-not-heating/. Does the 120 volt blue wire come down from the pcb board relay to one side of the heat element. And does the 120 volts on the red wire at the heat element comes directly of the line 2 input feeder then goes through the motor centrifugal switch then to the other side of the heat element? Hence we have two 120 volt inputs to the heater element. Is that correct? This no heat trouble is really strange.
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so you replaced the heating element?