I found three screws at the bottom and one screw located at the top of the center mount for the shelves under a removable screw cover. If you look at the edges of the cover (left and right side) you will see small pointers to locate the snap-in clips, you need to start at the two bottom pointer locations and push each side towards the center while pulling the panel towards you and work your way up to the top. Be carful as there are to plug in connectors located at the top left corner One for the fan and the other a temp sensor. You can unplug both to remove the cover. A hair drier and a plastic tube works very well to clean out the drain tube. Running the fridge to cold will cause ice build up and will freeze the drain tube, which in turn causes the water issue.
One way to fix the problem without having to take it all apart is to turn off the unit and let it sit overnight to melt the ice build up. Once it’s turned back on make sure to readjust the temp to prevent the ice from building up.
Its always a good idea while you are in repairing mode to roll the unit out and remove the bottom cover (on the back side) and clean out all the dust/dirt/lint build up. I will run much better
These instructions are very good. I added the wire and hope that helps. I can only add that a bulb baster was helpful to remove water then add hot water to the drain hole to speed up the thawing process.
Thanks for the help!
Yes, this is a constant issue, and it is always the same problem, ice frost buildup given the defrost cycle is too short ezpecially in summer months. I solved problem by blow drying ice, ran a coat hanger down drain hole at the center bottom drain hole as ice was formed down about an inch into drain. It was hard as ice, not just frost, and this has been the same issue over and over.
This time I wrapped 12 guage copper wire around bottom of defrosting heat coil and then inserted one end of copper wire down drain hole. Now when defrost cycle comes on, it heats the copper wire melting any build up at the drain hole. So far, so good, but easy fix overall.
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Thanks for this suggestion. I did this about 6 months ago and haven’t had a problem since. Here’s a poorly illustrated image to give everybody a visual of how to do this since I neglected to take a picture.
*Edit - adding direct link so that you don’t have to register to view the picture.
*Edit 2 - This site apparently does not like image_shack
Thanks to all of these posts, I was able to defrost the ice in the drain pipe which is behind the top panel. I used hot water about 5 times and left the refrigerator in off position for about 6 hours. Thanks again!
Okay we solved the ice formation issued at drain hold opening thanks to the copper tubing idea. Samsung was absolutely no help when they were contacted. Any ideas how to solve ice formation at the top of the coils on the RF26XAEBP? We do remove the back panel and blow dry the ice off every 8 months or so but do you know of a permanent solution to the problem? Contacted Samsung and again they were no help. I know there is a class action lawsuit on this coil freeze-up issue but I need a quicker, long-term fix to the problem.
Kaptain said:
Thanks for this suggestion. I did this about 6 months ago and haven’t had a problem since. Here’s a poorly illustrated image to give everybody a visual of how to do this since I neglected to take a picture.
*Edit - adding direct link so that you don’t have to register to view the picture.
*Edit 2 - This site apparently does not like image_shack
Wouldn’t you want the wire wrapped around the black heater line that forms a U shape under the coils? The coils only get cold, they are defrosted by the heater wire running around them.
Just fixed this problem after nearly three years. The heating probe, which is just a piece of aluminim hanging over the dfrost heating element and down into the drain was broken. The part that was supposed to extend down into the drain was literally broken off. So the water froze in the drain hole then back up freezing the drain collection surface and then would start running down the back panel and under the cripser drawers.
Fixed it by orderering a whirlpool heating probe, just another piece of aluminum, no wiring. But much larger than the samsung probe. Slightly bent it over e heating element and extended down into the drain. Problem solved.
I also saw a neat DIY online where a guy used Romex and coiled his copper wire around a piece of aluminum and hung that down the drain hole and then hung the Romex on the heating element, that would work too.
This fridge has been a nightmare, samsung sux!!!L!!!
I removed the interior cover and defrosted as suggested by many on this forum. Drain remained clogged.
I subsequently removed the back cover, finding the drains to the evaporator pan on the lower right (as facing the back of the refrigerator). This plastic tube (~1 inch diameter) is easily removed without tools. A duckbill valve at the top was clogged with gunk. Water rushed out as soon as I removed it. If you try this, be sure to hold a cup underneath.
