I have a roughly 2-3yr old Samsung French Door style fridge that leaks water. I first noticed the issue when ice was forming around the freezer bin seals and on the floor. I traced the source of water to what looks to be the evaporator/drainage area.
Observations:
-Ice maker functions as normal
-Refrigerator & freezer temperatures are as normal
-No strange sounds
-Water seems to drip from the bottom left corner of that panel, usually pretty slowly, but it manages to fill up a decent amount over night
-There’s some orange-ish build up so it makes me think that it’s been going on for a while but maybe only recently got worse
I noticed that the panel in the picture was loose and hanging down (no screws holding it in place). What does that cover? How do I remove it to see what’s behind it?
Thanks for any insight.
This is the bottom left corner of the fridge compartment with the left storage bin removed
I have a Samsung refrig model SMH7417WE (Inside says RF26VABWP) and it has the same problem. The picture posted looks like mine. I pulled the cover off and it has an electrical connector to what appears to be a heating unit (Defroster or some sort of humidity control). I am guessing the problem is the heating unit or the control for it, although the heating unit tested good for continuity. However, it is almost impossible to find any info on it. I checked with samsung website and their advice is "call a tech".
I don’t want to try to fix it by "Easter egging it" so I need some advice also. Maybe someone out there will have pity on us and tell us what to replace or tell me where to look for answers.
I paid a lot of money for this piece of junk and am very disappointed to find they are making everything so hard to find out how to make DIY repair. I won’t buy another foreign made refrig. Seems the more they cost, the more they are prone to break.
I paid an on-line service to tell me that it was a leak at the drain due to freezing up or just plain plugging up over time. I fixed it. I want to give you some additional information concerning where things are located on this model.
The back panel I removed initially was at the lower left side of the refrig behind the veggie drawer (which is the one you have the photo of). Behind that panel is where the water tank that cools the drinking water is located.
The panel that needed to be removed was above it and in the middle (Mine says Twin Cool in the middle of the panel). Once I got it off, I found the cooling coil and just below it was drain hole. If found some of the metal tape that covered the hole was just gouged out and left to clog up the hole (poor factory quality)in addition to the fact it was frozen over. You have to shut down the power to it and take everything out of the refrig in order to get to the screws that hold it together (There are four of them).
I cleaned out the metal foil or tape, whatever it was and used a blow dryer to start the thawing. Then I used towels to mop up the water that will accumulate in the bottom. Then I poured HOT water into the drain area and after about 3 or 4 tries, it came clear. I then used a long thin (about 3/16 inch plastic hose to run all the way to the evaporator pan to ensure it was totally clear.
I also had the orange tint where the water sat and changed color until it overflowed and ran down the sides. That will be a good indicator for anyone having the same problem.
Wow, thanks for much for that information! I had read elsewhere about this potential issue too but wasn’t sure how to get to the drain.
When I opened the back (which was frozen shut, had to use the blow dryer just to get the rear panel off), I noticed the coils had some ice around them and so did one of the wires up top. As suspected, the entire drain area was frozen over.
I understand the drain freezing/getting clogged, but is it normal for the coils to have some ice? Is the defrost heater potentially problematic? They weren’t completely frozen over…infact it was just the lower ones. I wonder if that’s caused by the frozen drain
— Begin quote from refrigman;728424
I paid an on-line service to tell me that it was a leak at the drain due to freezing up or just plain plugging up over time. I fixed it. I want to give you some additional information concerning where things are located on this model.
The back panel I removed initially was at the lower left side of the refrig behind the veggie drawer (which is the one you have the photo of). Behind that panel is where the water tank that cools the drinking water is located.
The panel that needed to be removed was above it and in the middle (Mine says Twin Cool in the middle of the panel). Once I got it off, I found the cooling coil and just below it was drain hole. If found some of the metal tape that covered the hole was just gouged out and left to clog up the hole (poor factory quality)in addition to the fact it was frozen over. You have to shut down the power to it and take everything out of the refrig in order to get to the screws that hold it together (There are four of them).
I cleaned out the metal foil or tape, whatever it was and used a blow dryer to start the thawing. Then I used towels to mop up the water that will accumulate in the bottom. Then I poured HOT water into the drain area and after about 3 or 4 tries, it came clear. I then used a long thin (about 3/16 inch plastic hose to run all the way to the evaporator pan to ensure it was totally clear.
I also had the orange tint where the water sat and changed color until it overflowed and ran down the sides. That will be a good indicator for anyone having the same problem.
Mine is a three year old RF267ARBS and has exhibited this same water pooling problem for about as long as we have owned it. The problem seems to be exacerbated by several factors:
High humidity. More water in the air to condense and freeze. Duh.
Inadvertent adjustment of the freezer temp. The button that allows adjustment of the freezer temperature is in a very poor location, right next to the ice/ crushed/ water selector which gets a lot of use in our house. I have often found that when water pools up under the drawer, the temperature of the freezer has been fumble-fingered down to minus 6 or so…
Poor design. I am afraid that this may be the most pertinent factor, and am considering replacing the fridge altogether.
In the meantime, I will disassemble the back panels tomorrow to inspect for blocked drainage. Not overly sanguine about the outcome…
I have the same problem…water leaking into the bottom of the refrigerator (Samsung RF217ABWP). I’ve found the 2 obvious screws on the bottom sides of the inside panel, but can’t find the other that is holding the panel on the back. Any pointers on how to complete the removal are appreciated!!
Any help that anyone can provide…how to remove the interieor back panel of the fridge? Hoping that I will then be able to stop the water leaking and maybe better regulate the temp within all three levels.
— Begin quote from DIY Mommy;757948
I have the same problem…water leaking into the bottom of the refrigerator (Samsung RF217ABWP). I’ve found the 2 obvious screws on the bottom sides of the inside panel, but can’t find the other that is holding the panel on the back. Any pointers on how to complete the removal are appreciated!!
Thanks for looking. If it helps it does have Twin Cooling System. I suspect that the somewhere around the big circular "Twin Cooling" is where the add’l holds are. Again, any guidance is appreciated!
Thanks for looking. If it helps it does have Twin Cooling System. I suspect that the somewhere around the big circular "Twin Cooling" is where the add’l holds are. Again, any guidance is appreciated!
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There is one small plastic cover which is hiding center screw, pop that off carefully and you will see it. Good luck, I have been having problem for a long time, mostly in summer, so I am just starting to pull it apart.
thanks for the reply! Any pointers on where that small plastic coer is located? I don’t see any obvious covers so thought it might be tucked behind the twin cooling system sign, but it sounds like I’m looking int he wrong place. There was one cover, but when I removed it there was foam that I didn’t pull out. Is that where I need focus?
thanks for the reply! Any pointers on where that small plastic coer is located? I don’t see any obvious covers so thought it might be tucked behind the twin cooling system sign, but it sounds like I’m looking int he wrong place. There was one cover, but when I removed it there was foam that I didn’t pull out. Is that where I need focus?
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If you have french door RF266 version, there is a rack bracket mount in center of the plastic twin cool panel, and one screw is at top of rack, small square plastic cover same as the exposed one at the bottom of rack bracket.
I must warn you, cover is probably stuck if it was like mine with frost and ice buildup behind cover. Defrost with hair dryer first is best advice. Also, there are small raiser arrow indicators, two on each side, these are plastic grasps, so you have to apply a little screw driver pressure to release cover. If you get one side released, the other comes out easy with a little wiggling.
After a great 5 months my Samsung is now leaking again!! I found some water on the floor by the refrigerator and when I removed the left food bin sure enough, there was a lake once again. @$(%()
If I am going to have to defrost my fridge every 5 months I’d rather have my parents 20 year old fridge that runs like a champ
Has it happened to anyone else again as well? Is it just bad design or is there a part I need to replace? This is a disgrace to Samsung’s name
After a great 5 months my Samsung is now leaking again!! I found some water on the floor by the refrigerator and when I removed the left food bin sure enough, there was a lake once again. @$(%()
If I am going to have to defrost my fridge every 5 months I’d rather have my parents 20 year old fridge that runs like a champ
Has it happened to anyone else again as well? Is it just bad design or is there a part I need to replace? This is a disgrace to Samsung’s name
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Yes, this is a constant issue, and it is always the same problem, ice frost buildup given the defrost cycle is too short ezpecially in summer months. I solved problem by blow drying ice, ran a coat hanger down drain hole at the center bottom drain hole as ice was formed down about an inch into drain. It was hard as ice, not just frost, and this has been the same issue over and over.
This time I wrapped 12 guage copper wire around bottom of defrosting heat coil and then inserted one end of copper wire down drain hole. Now when defrost cycle comes on, it heats the copper wire melting any build up at the drain hole. So far, so good, but easy fix overall.
FREE100KSECRET said:
Yes, this is a constant issue, and it is always the same problem, ice frost buildup given the defrost cycle is too short ezpecially in summer months. I solved problem by blow drying ice, ran a coat hanger down drain hole at the center bottom drain hole as ice was formed down about an inch into drain. It was hard as ice, not just frost, and this has been the same issue over and over.
This time I wrapped 12 guage copper wire around bottom of defrosting heat coil and then inserted one end of copper wire down drain hole. Now when defrost cycle comes on, it heats the copper wire melting any build up at the drain hole. So far, so good, but easy fix overall.
Excellent advice from all, thanks.
Free100Ksecret, where is this defrosting coil? is it the black tube inside behind the panel or in the rear, behind the panel near the floor? How many turns of the wire? How long is the wire and how long is it extended down the tube?
We’ve had the fridge for about two years and it always made a big cracking noise. Never hooked up the ice maker line until this summer. Just recently the water pooling issue started happening. Wondering if others had the ice maker (water line) connected or not. Don’t know if hooking up the water line expedited the ice build up or if it’s taken two years for the pooling water problem to materialize. Thanks again everyone. Tim
Free100Ksecret, where is this defrosting coil? is it the black tube inside behind the panel or in the rear, behind the panel near the floor? How many turns of the wire? How long is the wire and how long is it extended down the tube?
We’ve had the fridge for about two years and it always made a big cracking noise. Never hooked up the ice maker line until this summer. Just recently the water pooling issue started happening. Wondering if others had the ice maker (water line) connected or not. Don’t know if hooking up the water line expedited the ice build up or if it’s taken two years for the pooling water problem to materialize. Thanks again everyone. Tim
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The coil is metal, square in shape with input plug at top right hand side and surrounds to evaporator. Coil bottom is close to the drain hole where there is a metal shelf or gutter like in shape, the hole is in middle, so wrapping the wire around coil tightly is how wire picks up high heat from coil during defrost mode every 8 hours or so and this will keep the hole clear of ice preventing overflow into bottom of refrigerator section, or under veggie bin. I had this problem get worse in summer, not much of problem in winter months.
As to cracking sound, yes, they all do this, expansion noise, normal by what I heard from Samsung’s useless service support system. I got fed up with waiting for a call back, and after weeks of emailing and leaving messages, this is when I decided to fix it myself. Icemaker is not the issue with water building up unless it was visibly leaking from spout. I did have this water line freeze up and stop working once or twice due to ice buildup in water unit at back left corner, so this is another issue common in these terrible units. Never again, my Samsung Plasma TV just blew too, so not happy with this Korean junk.
Thanks. I know, I was excited about all this tablet computer stuff thinking it might help me in my job. Samsung is big in tablets and phones too so I was researching them a lot. ended up going to the store today just to get a first hand look. These things are just big gadgets for teenagers. I can do better with my old HP windows mobile pda. As one commenter on this thread mentioned the good old refrigerators, I think that there needs to be a backwards revolution to get consumer products back to basics. We really don’t need all these fancy things just to keep our food cold. I’m not saying that design isn’t important, it’s just that a refrigerator should operate as good as it looks.
This time I wrapped 12 guage copper wire around bottom of defrosting heat coil and then inserted one end of copper wire down drain hole. Now when defrost cycle comes on, it heats the copper wire melting any build up at the drain hole. So far, so good, but easy fix overall.
— End quote
Wow, Genius! Is there any risk of fire in doing this? I went to home depot to pick up some copper wire and when I told them what I was trying to do with it the lady got upset and almost didn’t want to sell it to me claiming someone has caught their fridge on fire and burned down their house trying to do this. I can’t see how that could happen given that copper doesn’t catch on fire. How hot do the coils get? Could it melt the plastic around the drain tube if it’s in too deep?
Wow, Genius! Is there any risk of fire in doing this? I went to home depot to pick up some copper wire and when I told them what I was trying to do with it the lady got upset and almost didn’t want to sell it to me claiming someone has caught their fridge on fire and burned down their house trying to do this. I can’t see how that could happen given that copper doesn’t catch on fire. How hot do the coils get? Could it melt the plastic around the drain tube if it’s in too deep?
Funny, now I have heard everything. lol We are talking about conductive heat, and the coil does not get hot enough to burn anything, it barely melts the ice. I would say if it gets to 125 degrees I would be amazed, and given the copper wire will not duplicate this temperature, no fire is possible. It is actually in water at the point of drain hole, so good trick to catch anything on fire.
