My 1.5 year old Samsung Side-By-Side Refrigerator started flashing the temperature in the frig yesterday. It is now showing about 60 degrees in the refrigerator and -10 in the freezer. It shout be 38 and -4. I have run the systems self tests 6 times. Only once did it report that the Condenser-fan had a error, but the fan was running. I unplugged it for 10 minutes, waited for the C-fan to start (about 5 minutes) and then did the self test again - no errors.
This side-by-side features TWO cooling systems (evaporator in Freezer and refrigerator) and are cooled separately. It has fan motors for the condensor, frig, and freezer and 7 thermistor sensors.
Any suggestions on what parts I should replace since it doesn’t move cold air from the freezer the the frig with a damper like most side-by-sides?
samsung has had problems with There C-fan overheating, but it sounds like you have a iced up evap in the Fresh Food side Also have to be an electronic technician to test themistors on samsung
Well I changed the C-Fan. That didn’t fix the problem, so I finally took apart the fresh food side and found the fan was working but it was all iced up so very little air movement. I replaced this frig fan and the thermistor near the top light and cleaned out all the ice. The refrigerator has been working fine for over 8 weeks now. I assume this has fixed the problem.
It is difficult to tell when the fresh food evap is iced up since it is behind all the plastic back wall and insulation. What fooled me was that the fan was still working, but the airflow was restricted by ice in the air flow channels behind the insulation in the fresh food side.
Hello, I purchased a Samsung refrigerator from an individual about two weeks ago. The model number is RB2155SH. It is about four years old. The previous owner told me that it was freezing up every couple of days and just wanted it out of his garage. I brought it home and discovered that the freezer fan was not operating so I ordered a replacement and installed it last night. The temp came down and I put it all back togethor again. But this morning the freezer temp is flashing. It’s still -2 but it is flashing. I have three questions that should put me in the right direction:
What does the flashing freezer temp mean?
Which sensor in the freezer is wrapped in insulating tape and where should it be positioned?
There is another sensor with a longer cord that is not wrapped in tape, where does it go and what does it do?
Also, there is a third sensor mounted behind the light bulb with blue wires.
Had the exact same issue with my Samsung refrigerator. Called a Samsung tech, as the fridge was still under warranty. Same exact issue as the original post in this thread. Freezer was cold, fridge was not. Fridge side was iced up, with no air movement. Bad thermistor, although I do not know which one or where it is located.
Got mine fixed. Found that the heater on the refrige evap was bad. Ohmed out and found it to be open. Saw no burns or broken wires. Had to buy the entire evap assy to get the heater. Took off the heater on the new unit and installed it on the original. No need to break the connections on the evap and go through all those issues of reclaiming, sweating new fittings, etc. Heater ohmed out around 70.
Thanks for the update jmkinch, it seems my heater still works (not short or open). Will check to see if it gets energized by the PCB, will recheck the therm fuse and thermistor as well.
I have the same problem like yours and I just don’t know how to figure out whether I should replace the sensor (one clipped to the evaporator coils or the one next to the light bulb near the top), the thermostat, or the heater attached to the evaporator. I use a multimeter to test them all, and seems like there’s resistance. However, I don’t know what reading is supposed to be OK or not and I am not good reading the samsung service mannual…please advise.
Neolamprologus,
First let’s determine exactly what you are experiencing. Is the freezer ok and the fridge warm? Did you take the cover off the fridge evaporator and see that it is solid ice in the bottom of the coil? I can help more if I know exactly what is happening.
I noticed that from some of your other posts that you are having trouble with determining the multi-meter settings. To measure the defrost heater, set the meter to 200 ohms This will read any resistance between 0 to 200 ohms. The defrost heater should be around 100 ohms +_20 ohms. The thermistor( two yellow wires) mounted at the top of the evaporator coil in that white clip should read 5000 ohms at room temp of 77 deg F. If you put in into a small bowl of ice and water, it should then read around 13000 ohms. To read the thermistor, set the meter ohms switch to 20,000 or 20K, then you can read the 5K and 13K values. There is also the thermofuse. Set the meter to the lowest scale and the thermofuse should read cliose to 0 ohms. Basically the same reading as when you touch both meter lead together.
When you do these measurements, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet and remove the connectors from their mating connectors on back wall near the evaporator.
The thermistor you mention at the top of the fridge is for keeping the fridge at the set tremperature and has nothing to do with defrost function.
Thanks to JMKinch for helping me save a lot of money. My Samsung RS267LASH quit cooling. Temperatures would sometime be reported on the refrigerator side up to 50F+. I called a local repairman. He looked at it for about 15 minutes, took nothing apart, and told me that I needed a new control board. He also suggested replacing the front display all to the tune of more than $500. This didn’t seem right, so I then checked this forum. I took the fridge apart. Evaporator was completely iced up. I found out that the heater was open circuit with a multimeter. Then I called the official Samsung repair people in the Houston area. They actually told me that they did not do freon recovery, joint sweating, and refills although Samsung says that this is required. At this point, I took matters into my own hands and took the leap of faith that I could really change out the heater although Samsung says it can’t be done. JMKinch is right. It can be done and I took pictures all along the way to document it. Old heater = open circuit. New heater = 95 ohms.
Just FYI. Before the repair, I would get the error code on the front that the defrost cycle had time out after 80 minutes. Makes sense. The heater would come on but not heat so of course it timed out! I’ll try to post the pictures soon.
Thanks to JMKinch for helping me save a lot of money. My Samsung RS267LASH quit cooling. Temperatures would sometime be reported on the refrigerator side up to 50F+. I called a local repairman. He looked at it for about 15 minutes, took nothing apart, and told me that I needed a new control board. He also suggested replacing the front display all to the tune of more than $500. This didn’t seem right, so I then checked this forum. I took the fridge apart. Evaporator was completely iced up. I found out that the heater was open circuit with a multimeter. Then I called the official Samsung repair people in the Houston area. They actually told me that they did not do freon recovery, joint sweating, and refills although Samsung says that this is required. At this point, I took matters into my own hands and took the leap of faith that I could really change out the heater although Samsung says it can’t be done. JMKinch is right. It can be done and I took pictures all along the way to document it. Old heater = open circuit. New heater = 95 ohms.
Just FYI. Before the repair, I would get the error code on the front that the defrost cycle had time out after 80 minutes. Makes sense. The heater would come on but not heat so of course it timed out! I’ll try to post the pictures soon.
— End quote
WOW!! Please post the pics if you find the time later.
This could really help me and my family if you don’t mind.
I need to get my fridge side operating again like it is supposed too.
Were you able to do any testing to determine what part may be bad? It could be the thermistor, defrost heater or the thermofuse. Have you checked these with a multimeter for the resistance readings?
Jay
We all know what it is like to be without the fridge.
Were you able to do any testing to determine what part may be bad? It could be the thermistor, defrost heater or the thermofuse. Have you checked these with a multimeter for the resistance readings?
Jay
We all know what it is like to be without the fridge.
— End quote
I haven’t yet.
(Background)
My fridge flooded the kitchen. It had a cracked & busted water filter.
I replaced it with a new cartridge filter and a few days later it did the same thing and flooded my kitchen again.
I then removed the second busted cartridge and unplugged the fridge.
I removed a small access panel, at the rear of the fridge on the bottom. Looked in there and saw the coil with a small white fan attached on the left side. This entire unit sits in a small catch pan and it was full of water.
I removed the water from the catch pan and plugged the fridge back in the next day. I placed a themometer in the freezer and fridge.
The freezer is set for 2F and after a few hours it leveled off at -20F and is not moving to what I set it for.
The fridge is set for 38F and it has been at 40F for several hours.
I haven’t put another filter cartridge in, because I fear it will freeze again and burst.
I don’t really know what to do. I have the tools and multimeter to check sensors. I have repaired dryers and washing machines before.
I was hoping to see photos of how some of the panels are removed. And where the other evaporator and coils and fans and sensors are.
This unit (4 door) is supposed to have separate evaporators for the freezer and fridge.
What is the model number and make of the fridge. ? I may be able to find you a service manual on the net. That will help a lot. When the fridge powers up after a power failure, it goes to a set of preset values for temperature settings. After a couple of hours, the temps should settle very close to what the front panel settings are set at. I keep mine at 0 and 40 and at power up, the fridge goes to 34 and the freezer to -10. Then everything settles back to the settings. I have never used the Samsung water filter because they are so expensive and hard to find. I just put cover plate supplied in place of the filter and use an inline filter.
