Of the two XLO burners, one sparks but the gas valve doesn’t open. The other one I can hear the solenoid open and then it sparks and ignites. Since the spark looks good on the one that doesn’t ignite and the gas valve opens before the spark even starts on the one that does ignite, I assume whatever controls the solenoid is the culprit.
I read here similar models needed a new potentiometer. Just wanted to know if this and or the control unit was the issue. Does the AP3872616 kit work on this model/serial combination?
I'm having the exact same issue. I have the following:
Thermador SGCS365RB
SN 20030115NB
After reading this thread and a few others, I was convinced it was the potentiometer as well. I have swapped the working with with the non-working one to test the theory and sure enough, the opposite XLO burner works and the previously working one fails. So I’m convinced I’ve ordered the right part for the repair.
However, now that I have the part, it doesn’t seem to fit. It must fit flush around the metal shaft that the burner knob sits on top of (it’s a half-circle shape). Otherwise when you turn the burner knob, the potentiometer won’t catch, and therefore won’ work (it will always be in the ‘off’ position).
The reddish one is the older, broken one. You can see that the opening is much smaller on that one. I’ve taken some pics of the new one in place and you can see the large gap where turning the knob wouldn’t catch.
It’s item #6 on that page. I’ve verified that my Serial Number is within the right range for that part and doesn’t need the potentiometer ‘kit’.
I’d appreciate any help from the gurus out there. Please let me know what I’ve done wrong or if I need a different part. Thanks in advance for any help.
PS, thanks to the forum for helping me get this far.
I'm having the exact same issue. I have the following:
Thermador SGCS365RB
SN 20030115NB
After reading this thread and a few others, I was convinced it was the potentiometer as well. I have swapped the working with with the non-working one to test the theory and sure enough, the opposite XLO burner works and the previously working one fails. So I’m convinced I’ve ordered the right part for the repair.
However, now that I have the part, it doesn’t seem to fit. It must fit flush around the metal shaft that the burner knob sits on top of (it’s a half-circle shape). Otherwise when you turn the burner knob, the potentiometer won’t catch, and therefore won’ work (it will always be in the ‘off’ position).
The reddish one is the older, broken one. You can see that the opening is much smaller on that one. I’ve taken some pics of the new one in place and you can see the large gap where turning the knob wouldn’t catch.
It’s item #6 on that page. I’ve verified that my Serial Number is within the right range for that part and doesn’t need the potentiometer ‘kit’.
I’d appreciate any help from the gurus out there. Please let me know what I’ve done wrong or if I need a different part. Thanks in advance for any help.
PS, thanks to the forum for helping me get this far.
jamesb5,
I am going to do a little research on my end and get back to you tomarrow.
I have same problem as described below, no gas to front xlo burners. I too changed the potentiometer from one to the other. In my case the front burner still has no gas flow. Based on this it seems unlikely that the problem is the potentiometer. What else could it be?
Gene,
Thanks for your reply. The model is PGR364GD. To provide a little more detail- the issue with left front burner (XLO) started with the flame going out after short time, maybe a minute. This would cause igniter to fire repeatedly in attempt to lite but at that point no gas. This condition lasted a couple days. Now the burner will not light at all. Nor is there gas.
As mentioned is swapped positions of potentiometer from front to back control. This did not change condition.
Unfortuanatly I do not have any test equipment to measure voltage as described in test plan. Can you tell me if there is any other simple test (like swapping plugs or ??).
Alternatively can you give me your best guess of what part(s) I should try? Given the simple experiment I performed it seems unlikely to be potentiometer right?
Thanks
Gene
Thank you again for your reply. Not to overstay my welcome but one more question. It appears both of these parts are under the drip tray. For my model PGR364GD, how do I remove the drip tray. It appears to be held down by the venturi tube. Is that the case? If I losen that nut/tube will that allow me to remove tray?
Thanks again. You have been very helpful.
lorenl said:
…It appears to be held down by the venturi tube. Is that the case? If I losen that nut/tube will that allow me to remove tray?..
This is correct. You have to remove them completely. Use a socket wrench to unscrew them and do not apply too much force because you can easy brake the gas tubes.
If you would not be able to unscrew the venturi then you have to cut them off using a dremel tool. Unfortunately this is the only possible way to take it apart.
I have a thermador sgcs365rs and have the exact same problem that others have with the solenoid not operating properly. I have read your step by step troubleshooting and pictures that others have placed on here. I understand the system, I just want to make sure I perform the maintenance correctly.
The unit is sealed fairly well with several fasteners on the bottom of the unit. I want to make sure that I understand the proper disassembly of the unit so I don’t make a bad problem worse.
What are the proper procedures for "getting at" the potentiometer and parts you reference on your troubleshooting?
The instructions are attached to the reply. Apply a reasonable force while unscrewing the venturis. The gas tubes under the top panel can be twisted and easily broken. Any of the venturi which can not be unscrewed has to be cut off using a dremel tool.