About 6 weeks ago, my fridge stopped getting cold (freezer working fine, though). I checked the coils, which were completely iced over, and defrosted them with a hair dryer. On the advice of someone who knows a bit about appliance repair, I REPLACED the MAIN BOARD and the DEFROST HEATER.
Everything worked great until a few days ago, when the same problem occurred – the fridge was no longer cooling, but the freezer worked fine. I checked the coils, which were iced over again. This time I used a hair dryer and hot water to de-ice them.
I put everything back together in the early morning and all seemed well until evening, when the fridge temp started rising again (I had hung a thermometer inside); THIS TIME, however, EVEN THE FREEZER HAD STOPPED WORKING! I could feel warmth coming from the back panel (no “hot smell” or overheating, just a “warm-glow” warmth when I touched the back panel).
After unplugging the fridge and removing the back panel, I checked the defrost heater, and it was slightly warm, so I’m assuming that’s where the warmth came from.
A couple of questions:
Is it possible the main board has gone out (again), since the FAN and COMPRESSOR are NOT RUNNING when the fridge is plugged in? Could something have caused it to short?
I read that if it’s not the defrost heater, it’s probably the TIMER or the THERMOSTAT. (I don’t think my model has a timer.) Could a FAULTY THERMOSTAT CAUSE THE NEW MAIN BOARD TO SHORT OUT?
If it’s the THERMOSTAT, then I’d like some ADVICE ON HOW TO CHANGE IT. I located the thermostat, which has two wires, one pink and one orange. The pink wire is attached to a white, plastic "slip," which fits into a hole connected to the defrost heater. The orange wire leads into a hard, black plastic "wrapping," then continues on to a round, blue casing attached to the back of the fridge. My question is, COULD THE THERMOSTAT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM, and, if so, HOW DO I REMOVE THE ORANGE WIRE? Does it disconnect at the point of the black, plastic wrapping or at the back of the fridge, where it goes into the round blue casing?
Troubleshooter said:
About 6 weeks ago, my fridge stopped getting cold (freezer working fine, though). I checked the coils, which were completely iced over, and defrosted them with a hair dryer. On the advice of someone who knows a bit about appliance repair, I REPLACED the MAIN BOARD and the DEFROST HEATER.
Everything worked great until a few days ago, when the same problem occurred – the fridge was no longer cooling, but the freezer worked fine. I checked the coils, which were iced over again. This time I used a hair dryer and hot water to de-ice them.
I put everything back together in the early morning and all seemed well until evening, when the fridge temp started rising again (I had hung a thermometer inside); THIS TIME, however, EVEN THE FREEZER HAD STOPPED WORKING! I could feel warmth coming from the back panel (no “hot smell” or overheating, just a “warm-glow” warmth when I touched the back panel).
After unplugging the fridge and removing the back panel, I checked the defrost heater, and it was slightly warm, so I’m assuming that’s where the warmth came from.
A couple of questions:
Is it possible the main board has gone out (again), since the FAN and COMPRESSOR are NOT RUNNING when the fridge is plugged in? Could something have caused it to short?
I read that if it’s not the defrost heater, it’s probably the TIMER or the THERMOSTAT. (I don’t think my model has a timer.) Could a FAULTY THERMOSTAT CAUSE THE NEW MAIN BOARD TO SHORT OUT?
If it’s the THERMOSTAT, then I’d like some ADVICE ON HOW TO CHANGE IT. I located the thermostat, which has two wires, one pink and one orange. The pink wire is attached to a white, plastic "slip," which fits into a hole connected to the defrost heater. The orange wire leads into a hard, black plastic "wrapping," then continues on to a round, blue casing attached to the back of the fridge. My question is, COULD THE THERMOSTAT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM, and, if so, HOW DO I REMOVE THE ORANGE WIRE? Does it disconnect at the point of the black, plastic wrapping or at the back of the fridge, where it goes into the round blue casing?
Thanks for any advice you may have.
You could very well have a bad board, since the compressor and the fan is not running. Lay your hand on the top of the compressor, and see if the compressor is hot, if so, the fan motor could be bad. If the compressor is running and the motor is not, then that would mean the condensor motor is bad. Or, the overload and relay combination mounted on the compressor is bad. If the compressor is cold as a cucumber, I would get another board. Tom http://www.applianceeducator.com
Same song, second verse. Everything was working fine until this afternoon. MAIN BOARD, DEFROST HEATER, AND DEFROST THERMOSTAT have all been replaced.
The freezer has condensation; fan is not running. So far as I can tell, the unit is not working. Do you still think it could be the thermistor? I can’t get a part until tomorrow. Is it possible the main board has shorted – again?
For this "problematic" refrigerator, put a 100 joule suge protector on the outlet. Available at Lowes, $12.95 a blue box made for appliances. Make sure it is designed for appliances.
GE side/side PSC25MSSASS. Ready to call the repair guys. Unit only 3 years old. Freezer/Fridge work great til about 1 day a week, the upper 1/4 of the freezer warms up and stays that way for a few hours. Then everything freezes up again and all is cool for another week. I would prefer to avoid "trial + error" and get this fixed. My wish? Can you all tell me the simple repair answer if there is one?
Thanks - But - both freezer + frige cool perfectly 95 % of the time. If it was refrigeration problem, wouldnt it affect more than just the small section of the freezer where the defrost heater element (I assume there is one) is located?
Your defrost heater is on the bottom of the freezer. Syptoms point to a compressor shutting down. Either a compressor going sour, or the motherboard shutting down.
You might want to look at the back side of the motherboard for bad solder connections at the power relay. Or you can repost this as an intermittant problem. May be someone else has experienced this problem.
Whirlpool dbl oven Mod#RBD305PDB15 (4 yrs old) Periodically sounds tones, then stops working except interior light, oven comes back on (with tones) within a few minutes to several days,w/ code E6 F2 on display, then works fine.
Needs new Control panel assy? P/N AP3131744, if so, need proper procedure to remove old panel assembly w/membrane…
Could it be Electronic control circuit? P/N AP3598617
Or Sensor? AP4321511
Or Thermostat(TOD)? P/N AP3885687
or Transformer? P/N AP3968801,
Or Electronic clock control board? P/N AP3595759,
Or Thermal Fuse? P/N AP33249… What’s your best guess?, (two are not in stock on this website, by the way.;electronic clock control board,electronic control circuit) Thanks.
Hi Gene, I’ve researched posts on this topic and seem more confused as to what my Dryers problem is. First, your website only offers model s ending in 1WW or 3WW, not the 2WW I have.
It seems the dryer ignites on cold starts, but then stops heating. Occasionally it works the entire cycle. Or, it simply won’t heat or "click" on from the beginning. We originally thought that when we get lucky and hear the "click" it would work, but have since learned that it will start to heat but then stop heating, again sometimes… I’ve confirmed the ignitor has continuity. I suspect the problem is the coils, but do I have to replace both? How do I test the coils? Suggestions?
I saw your other posts and apllied the trouble shooting steps.
Problem:
Oven sometimes display error code E6 F2.
After displaying this error , i was able to reset it by pressing upper off button.
I could start preheating the oven but in few minutes it shuts down.
On the other hand, it is like, Oven has its own mind…
Display most of the time is blank. Just black out basically. This occurs when there is no error code on the display.
In this condition Oven lights can come on and off, but when i press on start button the result is:
sequential 1 short beep 1 long beep and 3 short beeps
So far what i did today is:
1 I removed the Control panel
2 unplugged the keyboard flat wire
3 plugged back the control panel again without plugging the keyboard flat wire.
the result is:
I turned the breaker back on, While i was walking from the garage to kitchen, i hear the usual beep sound and when i came back i saw oven display is still blank (black).
about 45 seconds later i heard the
sequential 1 short beep 1 long beep and 3 short beeps and the display is still blank (black).
it has been 30 minutes,
No response or beep when pressing buttons on the the control except the light is turning on, when door is open.
No Ice Being Made. On And Off Switch In Freezer On Right Side Has A Green And Red Light.i Beleave The Green Light Came On When The Switch Was In The On Position It Does Not Come On Now.
