When I set my dryer on auto dry, the timer doesn’t move and the dryer will not get hot. But, if I set the dryer to timed high heart or timed low heat the timer works and the dryer gets hot. What needs to be replaced?
Sounds like the problem is a bad timer.
- The part number for the timer is AP3038719
Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper dryer http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=110685&&model_id=263685
Gene.
— Begin quote from DerbyDad03;44133
1. …How does a bad Timer prevent the heat from coming on?..
2. …how does the dryer sense moisture?..
— End quote
1. [SIZE=2]The timer is a set of switches engaged by a timer motor driven cam. The timer, through these switches, provides power to different dryer parts, like the drive motor or the heating circuit. [/SIZE]
You can see it on the [Manual](https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528187.pdf"]wiring diagram[/URL] for your dryer.
There is supposed to be continuity between the timer terminals TM & OR when the timer is set for "auto” dry in order for the timer to advance.
There is supposed to be continuity between the timer terminals BK & R in any cycle in order for the dryer to heat.
2. You dryer does not sense moister because it does not have a moister sensor and an electronic moister control.
The difference between "timed" dry and "auto" dry in your dryer (as you can see from the wiring diagram) is:
on "timed" dry, the power to the timer motor comes through the drive motor centrifugal switch as long as the dryer is "on";
on "auto" dry, the power to the timer motor comes only when the heating circuit is "off" which actually makes the whole cycle longer.
You can learn the theory of drying from this [URL="https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/3ffad75038c96fe4852571ca006cb80a/$FILE/L-58.pdf).
Gene.
Thanks for the explanation. I’ll look over the manual.
As I mentioned in [B]Estate Dryer AutoSense Problem[/B] my problem turned out to be the coil kit on the gas valve.
The explanation by the nice lady at the appliance parts store counter was that if the coils can’t keep the valve open long enough, the clothes will eventually dry, but the dryer will never get hot enough to advance the timer in AutoSense mode.
Thanks richappy, that’s kind of how I thought it worked.
That is also why at first I thought it was the cycling thermostat that was bad. Since the clothes were eventually drying, I assumed the CT was never opening, therefore never advancing the timer.
What I missed was the fact that if the CT didn’t open, then the clothes should have been really, really hot because the only thing controlling the burner would have been the over limit thermostat.
I gotta thank the parts store lady for her suggestion that it was the coils. It makes sense that if the dryer never got hot enough, the clothes would eventually dry, but the CT would never open.
I’m smarter today than I was yesterday!
I need to replace the rubber seal on my front load washing machine. If I order a gasket (ap4334050) will this be everything that i need?
Hi Tonya
Make sure you have the wire and spring that holds the gasket on. You should be able to use the old one from your machine.
This is a job which will require some patience and I suggest a helper. GE tenanciously guards their tech documents, but there is a GE service manual which has a good set of instructions and pictures, and here it is from another Forum (hopefully they won’t mind).
http://appliancejunk.com/ge/washer/31-9135.pdf
Good luck