PDS22SBPARSS ser# KF04413 Bottom Freezer
Used a local repair firm, turns out to be a ripoff of $438 and nowhere to be found. Don’t have control board, so cannot troubleshoot. Have bought new board (AP4297272) and new Evap mtr asm (AP3743432) from your parts dept.
My question: Do I need anything else, I don’t want to destroy the control brd (I should have done this repair myself in the beginning, lazy I guess)
Unit is 5 yr, 2 mo old with 5 year warranty. (GE has it down pat!
)
TIA
Forrest
What was the original problem? What was done by the repair guy?
If you think the new motor and control board will solve the problem then replace the fan motor first and then replace the control board. Do not power up the refrigerator until you replace both parts.
Gene.
original problem was frig warm & freezer cold. Repair guy said that I needed a new control brd and said that I needed to give him $300 deposit to special order the brd. He returned following day and installed new?? brd and collected another $138 and left.(on a friday of course) the frig then displayed the correct temp for the frig and freezer(37 & 0), except my mercury thermometers said that the freezer was around 0 degrees and the frig was 63 degrees. Called the tech and he came about a week later and removed the control brd to have the supply house test it. He finally returned my many calls and said that the parts supplier would replace the brd only if I bought a replacement evap mtr kit for $300. H e then said to check internet for better price. I found your site and bought kit for $189, called for tech several times and finally found that he had moved to IL… and they had no record of any unfinished repairs.(in other words, kiss off!) So I am without a control brd and out $438. I have on order a new cntrl brd from your site and will replace brd and evap mtr kit when received. Wanted to know if I needed to replace any thing else before powering up the unit. I don’t want to distroy the cntrl brd and start all over.
If I got it right your refrigerator now is without the control board at all? If this is correct then you have to install the new control board and the fan motor first. Hopefully it will solve the problem. Keep us posted.
Gene.
P.S. If you called this guy trough his office and you do have all paperwork then you can take this company in a court because the company is liable for all their workers.
Gene, I have the old evap fan asm removed. Can I apply 13vdc across red/wht to check operation? Do I need a second source to apply 8-13 vdc to the yel/wht or can I tie the yel and red together? What is blu lead for?
remember, I don’t have a cntrl brd yet.
Res between red/wht=1800
Res between yel/wht= 2.8M
Is there a schematic available somewhere?
Thanks for your time & knowledge
Forrest
Hi Gene, I replaced the cntrl brd and fan assem after making mods to brd as instructed,
Everything worked great, for awhile! Now after about a month, the same symptoms have returned. Freezer -9 degrees, refer 60 degrees.
I am now convinced that GE no longer makes a decent product. I have had many GE products in the past with great success, but now I believe they only make JUNK!
Is there a test procedure that can be run to determine what has failed or should I cut my losses($700+) and make a trip to the dump.
Two of the four stove top burner electrodes (ignitors?) are not sparking. Normally all the electrodes spark when any knob is turned.
Two burners on the right (front & back) spark when any knob is turned to "Lite" but the two electrodes for the burners on the left do not spark. Yes, gas flows and those burners work when a cigarette lighter is used to ignite the gas.
I checked the connections to the two electrodes and they seem fine.
I did not try to find where all four electrode wires go – the source for whatever makes the electrodes spark is not easily accessible.
My guess is I’ll have to pull the stove out.
It seems odd that two electrodes would fail at the same time.
What part or parts do I need?
Thank you,
David White
Chicago
Is there a circuit diagram somewhere for this model (GE Profile PDS22SBPARSS) ?
Same issue, the freezer was -16 and the refrigerator was 55 as per the temperature indicators. I found that no air was coming in the refrigerator. Found that the air damper control was totally shutting off causing no air to come up. Disconnected this and manually opened the air damper all the way. For a couple of days it worked fine. Now the freeze is 8 and refrigerator is 64. I had opened the rear of the freezer and confirmed that the fan was working. There is a thin coat of ice all around the evaporator. Have not checked the connectivity of the heating coils and the thermodisc on the evaporator.
Pull the refrigerator out of the wall. Remove the rear cover and clean the condenser coils. Make sure the fan next to the compressor is working.
Gene.
P.S. The damper control can not be open all the time. You have to replace it.