just put in a new shift actuator. which was perfect. now when the unit spins out it is very loud. seem to be getting louder.:mad:
ever figure this out?
mine is getting loud as well…sounds like a plane. lol
anyways, I can’t find any info on if there is bearing I can change on this unit.
buddy whats your model number?
Wtw4950xw2
buddy sorry to say all the bearings are built into the gear case. If the sound you hear happens during the spin cycle likely the gear case needs replaced. Good news its easier to fix than pressing out and in new bearing. Bad news more expensive. However it may be that the tub seal is bad also which leaked water to the gear case. If this is the issue I’d replace both. Here are your part numbers http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gearcase-w10324649-ap4560983.html & http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-seal-tub-w10324647-ap4567772.html
I see what your saying, and thanks for the help thus far.
Your right, the tub seal is definitely toast, i see water all over the floor…
was pricing one out earlier too since I haven’t take the machine apart, but do believe its leaking.
Aside from this, I am also having another issue, I change the shift actuator not long ago, took it apart and the gears were all messed up inside.
Problem is, after swapping it, I never calibrated the machine after that.
:rolleyes:
since then, machine has always been acting weird, making grinding screeching noises, not draining water, not spinning properly. always had to do a separate spin cycle to get rid of the water.
anyways, I finally got a hold of the tech data sheet in the machine…re calibrated it, did a bunch of tests ect…still acting weird.
I keep getting a code F 421 E1, (basket speed sensing failed) which I am pretty sure means the shift actuator has failed again. Probably on a count of not recalibrating machine that day I first fixed it.
Am I correct to assume this?
Or should I go through all the tests on the wiring harness ect…
I really don’t think or see how there could be anything wrong on the electrical/wiring side of this.
right now, when i do the empty machine testing in manual mode, the basket will spin at high speed even when testing the low speed, and the agitate function also only does work at super high speed…
Weird thing is, when I actually try to do a a load, the wash cycle doesn’t even seem to be working at all.
get a new shift actuator?
The basket speed sensor is built in to the shift actuator. So it may be that is the reason for spinning at high when testing low. Before replacing it I would see if the gear case needs to be replaced, the possible reason for it being loud. I mean it may be that the unit isn’t shifting in or out of agitate mode and making noise but with a leak i’m inclined to say the gear case is bad. If you replace it and the tub seal and a new actuator then calibrate your other problems may be solved.
The gearcase is the deal killer here for me…
Where I live this part is 358$+tax which would put it at 400$ just for this part.
then tub seal and shift actuator is going to run another 120$.
That is over 520$ to fix this machine.
At that point I may as well just buy a new one!!!
Is there a way to determine it is completely failed besides loud bearing noise?
I am good at fixing stuff, is there something I can do to repair it perhaps?
I am going to take it apart before I buy any parts or decide on anything.
these repairs aren’t really making any financial sense at this point…
Thanks for all the help so far brobriffin!
Believe me when i say I’ve tried to repair these new style transmissions (gear cases). But they are pressed together and I can not find any parts. Perhaps someone with lots of time may be able to rip apart and find some parts, however I think most parts are proprietary and not available on the open market. (Planned obsolescence?) As for your cost the part here at APP is only $230 for brand new OEM gear case. please see the link http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gearcase-w10324649-ap4560983.html
and the actuator is only $43 here at APP
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-actuator-shift-wpw10006355-ap6014711.html
Yeah, I am from montreal canada, and with the exchange rate and shipping and customs and duties, it will come out to the price I quoted above…which is obscene.
I am about to tear it apart and have a look see.
Took apart the actuator to see if the tiny gears inside were damaged, they were not.
Its looking like the gearcase is toast as there is nothing left that could be wrong…
gearcase and tubseal, or a new washer…what a waste
Well at least you won’t have to spend $120 for another actuator. If you go new I suggest any whirlpool manufactured unit (in Canada do they still sell Inglis?) that doesn’t have the vertical modular setup (the one you have is that type unit) The newer style units use a stator / rotor direct drive motor, using an electromagnet to shift from agitate to spin. Anyway I hope all works out for you.
When you say vertical modular setup…what exactly do you mean?
are you talking about the tallish cone thing in the middle of the basket?
My current washer does not have this.
here is one that I am looking at right now
what do you think?
Buddy, The washer you are looking at has the same exact drive system as the one you currently own. In the listing look under Specifications: Design: Washer Drive System you will see Belt Gear Drive. If you choose to get the same type you already have I would suggest purchasing the most extended warranty they offer.
The one to which I refer is a Direct Gear Drive, however they are much more expensive. This is an example http://www.sears.ca/product/kenmore-md-55-cuft-high-efficiency-top-load-washer-white/626-000858811-2626132K
I now understand and see what you are saying.
So direct gear is superior, just wondering though, direct gear is less prone to failure correct?
If it does fail, is it complicated and expensive job?
I am learning a lot from you!
Less moving parts. One of the common problems is the electromagnet shifter. There is a built-in over heat fuse. However not a big problem to replace all things being considered. Again when I purchase from sears here in the states I always obtain the 3 or 5 year extended warranty.
Oh by the way another issue with the new era of washers is the control board (computer) I recommend getting a power surge protector that offers a guarantee for your washer. I wish there was a 220/240 surge protector for the dryer’s control board, I’ve yet to find that.