I ordered the part WB27T10190 for the replacement part WB27K5306. They don’t produce the original part anymore. Ok. Considering the title of the instructions are "Retrofit" Some should send better instructions. Like a comparision of - this is what it looked like before and this is how it should be wired now. Does anyone have better pictures, experience or instructions? Why am I ordering a part I can "repair/install myself" and still have to call a tech to install it?
— Begin quote from jwciii;17401
… Why am I ordering a part I can "repair/install myself" and still have to call a tech to install it?..
— End quote
Very good question and, I’m afraid, only GE knows an answer.
If you can post a good copy of the installation instructions and a pictures of the old part, we might be able to help you.
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;17455
If you can post a good copy of the installation instructions and a pictures of the old part, we might be able to help you.
Gene.
— End quote
Unfortunately, there is no "good" copy of the instructions. I’m sure jwciii had the same probelm I am having now. The photos are dark, pixelated, copies of copies, and the verbiage refers to terminal designations that the board’s manufacturer can’t even identify.
I’m sorry for my first post to sound so angry, but I spent $160, waited 12 days and now I can’t make any sense at all of the part, nor the instructions.
But I spent more than 15 years working on air conditioners and one thing I know. . . I’ll figure out a way to make it work. 
Thanks for listening.
GOT IT!
It took me nearly three hours, but I figured it out. 
The old clock is a Robertshaw WB27K5306. The new clock is aTorsian WB27T10190. The range is a GE model JSP40WW3. It came new with the house 7 years ago. The symptoms began as a failure to reset after a power outage. The burners worked, but the clock was blank and the oven would not function. I powered down, waited two minutes and powered back up and it worked. A few months later, it took several tries to reset it. And 3 weeks ago we woke up one morning and it was off. MANY attempts to reset it failed, and I finally broke down and ordered the parts.
So, here are some better instructions for those who, like me, stumble across this site looking for answers. (sorry, no pictures)
The old 5 pin plug converts to a four pin plug. Don’t waste your time unplugging all those yellow, blue and orange wires from the hidden terminals, just cut and dress them with wire nuts. (I unplugged and replugged all mine, and then later realized it was unnecessary. :o )
The new board no longer uses a ground, so you can cut the ground wire off or tape it up.
The three L1 wires (all jumpered in a row) on the old board become one wire on the new board. Just pick one and plug it into the relay with the purple dot on it. It HAS to plug into the terminal closest to the transformer.
Plug the purple (broil) wire into the relay with the purple dot, plug the yellow (bake) wire into the relay with the yellow dot.
Plug the new two pin terminal harness into the board,and jumper the black wire with the white tracer stripe to the matching wire on the stove (latch motor) and the other wire jumpers to one of the remaining L1 wires you took off originally.
The remaining wires can be cut off and dressed with tape, or plugged together to prevent them from touching the chassis.
Thanks for listening to me yesterday. I was pretty frustrated. But today my frustration has a purpose. . . . I’ll never own another GE appliance. This was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me.
Nice site, by the way.
[SIZE=3]Thank you for the advice provided. It’s a shame GE can’t provide a good quality color instructions.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]For reference purposes, my stove model number is JDP36B0W1WH and probably more than 10 years old.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The symptom was that all LEDs of the control mechanism are on. After several hours it starts working normal, but if I try to set the clock or use the oven, all LEDs will turn back on.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The original control unit model was WB27K5306 and the replacement part number is Sanyo/Torisan ERC3B (WB27T10174). [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]In my case, the replacement was a little easier, I transferred the blue, orange, yellow and two white cables to the new harness and did not used any of the cables of the new harness (just the plug). Keep a note of the order, the orange and blue order changes with the new harness plug.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Old harness (6 pin) – Blue, Orange, Yellow, White, Blank (not used), White[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]New harness (5 pin) – Orange, Blue, Yellow, White, White[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I then used the provided two pin black, black/white harness. The new black/white cable connects to the old black/white cable of the old control unit labeled (ON).The black cable can connects to any of the old L1 wires (all in a row) of the old controller, then you can connect any of the other black wires to the build in jumper. Note that there will be one black wire remaining. This will connect to the RLY102 COM, which is the closet to the transformer.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Then plug the purple (broil) wire into the relay (RLY102) with the purple dot, plug the yellow (bake) wire into the relay (RLY100) with the yellow dot. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Finally, transfer the N (white wire) from the old controller to Terminal TAB107. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]As stated in previous threads, the ground cable is no longer used.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Test oven bake, broil and temperature settings to confirm it works!!![/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]It takes about three good hours to figure this out and get it done! Good Luck!!![/SIZE]