Whirlpool Dual Wall Oven Blower

There are two blowers in this dual oven. They are electrically connected so when either oven is on both blowers should operate. The blowers should start as soon as either oven is turned on.

Both blowers work with the lower oven but neither operate with the upper oven. I’ve done resistance checks on the wiring and everything is good. Nice shiny connectors all around. I pulled the control board and none of the components are scorched nor is there any obvious damage.

My arm still hurts from my wife slugging me when I suggested installing a toggle switch on the face of the oven controls to operate the fan so I’m looking for other ideas. Whirlpool no longer makes the control board for this unit, scrounging for a refurbished board seems iffy and I’m still in shock after looking at prices on new dual wall ovens.

I’m not hesitant to check voltage levels, solder new components or do other work on the board but I have no idea how to diagnose the problem. Suggestions would certainly be appreciated.

Carl

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=RBD305PDS12

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Manufacturers do not publish board schematics so I would trace the connection back to the the relay that controls the fan and then replace that.

If you get the numbers/info off the relay you may be able to find one on the net.
A good place to start would be Digikey.

This is a gamble as you do not know if the relay or the board parts controlling that relay is at fault.
You could try measuring its coil to see if that is blown.

I am not a fan of trying to do a live test on it as messing with 240 volts and having parts hanging loose often ends up badly.

Another possibility is to have the board repaired. There are a number of companies that do this, just Google "appliance timer repair".

Denman, that’s an excellent idea. Even I like it better than installing a rocker on the front panel! I have two more questions that I hope won’t try your patience.

Do you have any idea what the temps run on the surface of the protective plate when the oven is 350 or how quickly they drop when the oven is turned off? My goal is to select a temp for the cut-off that will turn the oven off after a reasonable time and not run for an hour seeking ambient. I have no clue how good the insulation might be or what the affects of the airflow might be and would be guessing. Of course, I can pull the oven out of the wall and run it if you don’t happen to know off hand.

Secondly, I’m in a small town and don’t have a decent electronic supply house so Digikey it is. If you don’t mind checking, it looks like one of the Bi-metal Cutouts on page 2227 of their online catalog would be suitable. The fans draw .5A each, all of these switches handle 15A @ 120V and half of them are normally open. I’m asking for help selecting the correct "package" to surface mount on the protective plate. Most of the detailed pictures look like they would require a cut-out on the plate or am I missing something or perhaps even have the wrong series of switches.

Thanks again for being so helpful.

i can hear fans running,I have checked the fan in freezer it is working,no frost a build up on coils,fridge is not cooling and freezer not freezing. Fan in the back of
fridge is running touched compressor it is warm to touch. what should i do?:confused:

Is the compressor running?
You can usually hear it but should also be able to feel it vibrating.

If it is and it is running all the time except when the unit goes through a defrost cycle and you get zero cooling then it is a sealed system problem.

This will be an expensive repair and often it makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit.