I have a Whirlpool Duet washer, that the problem is when the customer turns it on, it might work, or the control lights will come on as if it were ready to work, and then the unit shuts off. It also, the first time I was there, seemed as if it were confused (Kind of like me!) as if the door lock would lock, then the water would come in for a few seconds, then the door would lock, and then it would go into a spin cycle for a second, and then the whole unit will shut down. No lights. As if it were done and off. What do you all think!!! I have my wife trying to get me a model # today. I also would like to mention that I put in the CCU, that is mounted on the top right side of the washer. Tom:confused:
Tom
I have only worked on a couple of these, and it has always been a nightmare. Unless the repair is straight foward, they have been nearly impossible to fix.
What I found in the few successes is that a failure of the door latch/lock mechanism causes the machine to act like the CCU is bad. I do not know why this is the case, but when I look at the wiring diagram current goes through the door lock mechanism before anything else can happen, so if that current is "irregular???" it may be confusing the CCU. Anyway replacing the door lock assembly and the CCU did fix it on several occasions, but don’t ask me why.
This success was primarily the result of pure dumb luck on my part, but I thought I would pass the experience along in case no one else has any ideas, or you want to try it.
Good luck
I am also leaning towards the door lock mechanism, because sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times to lock. I also have no idea, how to put a lock mechanism on. Any idea? Tom
Ok, that’s the Duet Sport model.
My experience is that taking off and replacing the door lock assembly is easy, its getting that wire/spring back on that is a killer.
Anyway, if you use needle nose pliers to pull off that tension spring and wire that holds the rubber boot on, you can peel the boot away from the door lock assembly area (you don’t need to take the whole boot off) and get to the two screws (torx I think) that hold on the assembly. Then the switch will pull off, and you can disconnect the three wires.
As I said, at least for me, getting that wire/spring back on is the real problem. I do not know why they designed it that way, I guess it had something to do with avoiding the milldew problem of the earlier front loaders, but boy do they make it difficult.
Hope this helps.
I will keep in mind the dry boot seal. I had to do a boot seal on a Maytag Neptune, and I had the customer help me. This lady really wants her washer fixed, and I know she will help me. I will let you guys know how it goes. I really think us Techs need to get togther, and design a product, that is repair friendly Tom
I like the Frigidair’s on this, they just use super glue.
richappy said:
I like the Frigidair’s on this, they just use super glue.
Well Sidfink, you were right on the money, it was the door lock mechanism. Richappy the idea on drying the boot helped big time. The women’s house I was at, was my extra pair of hands. She actually used a few explicatives on what idiot designed this. It actuallt took us about 15 minuted to get the boot secured. Thank You both so much for the help. I hate that front loader!!! Tom 
Great, now if I only knew why, or why Whirlpool did not create a diagnostic for it. 15 minutes may be a new national record for speed.
I am thinking about starting a "I hate the Whirlpool Duet" fan club, all will be welcome.
Glad you got it going
kayakcrzy said:
Well Sidfink, you were right on the money, it was the door lock mechanism. Richappy the idea on drying the boot helped big time. The women’s house I was at, was my extra pair of hands. She actually used a few explicatives on what idiot designed this. It actuallt took us about 15 minuted to get the boot secured. Thank You both so much for the help. I hate that front loader!!! Tom
Hey that 15 minutes was putting the retainer ring on the boot. Not the whole job!! I’ll join that club too. Thanks to all. Tom