Sounds like the start relay on your compressor. Remove the cover panel at the bottom rear of the frige and feel the compressor. Is it hot? cool?. Unplug it for about a minute. Plug it back in, and see if the compressor starts. If it doesn’t, the relay may be the culprit.
I would like to know if this worked for you. I did the same thing earlier in the week on my Amana and it appears everything was good again. Then today the problem started again. The freezer not cooling was always intermittent for the last month or so and now seems that I didn’t fix it by replacing the relay. It still clicks and hums for 20 secs. Does this mean my comperssor is going out?
If you get the relay, don’t forget to clean everything out under there when you have it apart, front and back. Mine was so full of dirt and dust I don’t think there was any air moving through there cooling my compressor which may have been the source of the problem.
Yes. Dirt and lint caked on the condenser coil will cause premature failure of the system; causing the compressor to work harder, and the condenser won’t be able to dissipate the heat as efficiently as designed.
Well I don’t know how JD came out on his issue but here is an update on mine. Got the new relay, cleaned out the bottom of the coils, compressor and every where else I could find dirt. I still here the compressor having problems starting once in a while (the clicking and humming noises). It still appears to be holding on and not completely thawing out but I am wondering if the compressor is failing
I’m having the same problem with my whirlpool #ET18GKXGW01, it about 7-8 yrs old. The freezer and frig are not cold and I hear a click and a hum for 20-30 seconds then it clicks off.
I replaced the Bi-metal defrost unit part#4387503 thinking that was the problem but I am still getting the click/hum on then off in 20 secs. How do you test the relay that you mention above to see if its the culprit or is the compressor bad or failing.
Usually, if you shake the relay, and it rattles, it should be replaced. Unplug the frige and pull the relay and overload off the compressor, exposing the three connector pins. Check for ohms from common (the vertex of the triangle) to each of the other two pins, and also between the other two. Then check to see if any, none, or all of the pins has continuity to ground, or the chassis. If you find any, or all, the compressor needs to be replaced.
The ohm readings are very interesting with the differences. Isn’t this process only measureing the start and run windings of the motor? Is there a capacitor in the mix somewhere for starting the motor? I am going to measure mine when I get a chance and see what I get. I can tell by sound mine is having some difficulty starting all the time.