My 1987 direct drive washer had developed a no-spin condition, although agitation worked fine and the lid switch and motor coupler were good. So I replaced the transmission with a brand-new one.
Good news: On first test, the washer agitates and spins perfectly! Bad news: On first test, I noticed a fairly strong burning smell when agitating. (After I cleared the air, I ran drain/spin to empty the tub, and this time no smell.)
I am quite sure I reassembled everything perfectly. The only "problem" I had was that the new transmission came with the "teardrop" style lugs on its coupler, while the motor still has the old round lugs. I reused the black rubber coupling and had to "stretch" it a bit to get the new teardrop shaped lugs into the round holes. But everything fit nice and snug.
The only other "problem" I can think of is that I MAY have mixed up the motor’s start capacitor lug connections…but they are both identical, connection to red wires, so it would not appear to matter.
Maybe when handling the motor I dropped some oil or a dust bunny into the windings…? Any other thoughts appreciated.
Replaced the coupler with the new style, and all is well, no more burning smell.
Rich,
I have a Kemore/Whirlpool Catalyst model 11020052994. It is also a direct drive unit. I get a burning smell every now and then. I can’t pinpoint it. Do you think it is the coupler? If so, why? Do they slip? I noticed a design change in the parts description.
Mike in Phoenix
I also just read about sticking break shoes. I am going to try to pull off the tub today and see if I can see anythng wrong. I do know that at the end of cycle, the tub is hard to turn in both directions. Then it feels like somthing breaks free and it moves back and forth.
Now if I can only figure out how to take this tub off…
Mike in Phoenix
Take the screws off the control panel, tilt back and remove the ripply clamps holding the outer cabinet in place. Remove lid switch connector and tilt away the outer cabinet.
Remove pump and motor and check the coupler. If ok, turn the tranny coupler clockwise till the basket starts to turn. If very hard to turn, you have sticking brake shoes.
Go in the search box and put in "replacing direct drive brake shoes". Please post results.
thank you.
I did do that today. I cleaned, lubed the pivot points on the brake and clutch today. I did buy a new pump assy and install it today. I pulled apart the old pump assy and noticed some rubbing marks. The motor is about 50 percent easier to turn with the new pump assy. My coupler doesn’t have anything visible wrong with it.
I did one test load which worked perfectly. I will do another one now.
Mike in Phx
Good detective work, you obviously removed the motor from the tranny with the pump and tested it by turning the motor from the coupler side.
found the factory diagram taped to /in dryer . and did not mark wires.
temp/fabric selector switch,terminals not well defined in diagram.
switch has spade terminals marked as follows:
AH6, .AH1, AH3, .AH (AH3 has resistor connected)
one heavy red wire comes from the timer
one white/blue wire comes from the timer
one heavy red goes to the temp overload
one white/purple goes to a four wire splice
need to know which wire to which terminal
thanks mothers growing impatiant